6G Celicas Forums

interested in buying as a whole. i need to know the car runs perfect though. i cannot get this car and not have it be able to get me from point a to point b. obviously there's an oil drip...any other problems? it'd also be nice to know where the oil drip is coming from please. lemme know

That's an edited GT 6 speaker system...I made it an 8 speaker system. 8" subs, 5 1/4" mids...tweets...and some nice rear fills. Too bad it died and I put this system in my civic. It sounded excellent though. A nicer idea though would be to do a smaller 5 1/4" or even a 4" or 3" mid. Diamond Audio has a sweet 3 speaker setup with crossover that offers a 7" sub, 3 or 4" mid and then the tweet.

Really easy install...hit me up when you install it and I can help you through it. I do these all the time at work.

Its a 95 Celica GT with 130k on it. Engine is blown, tranny is fine. Tires are practically brand new, only 3 months of wear. Everything mechanical is in great shape. Passenger low beam has a small crack in it which I can upload pictures if needed. Driver's low beam has a broken plastic mounting piece, so common grrr. Along with that the front bumper has a crack right under the driver's side low beam. I have a nice magnaflow exhaust with mandrel bent 2 1/2" catback piping. Injen intake in good shape, filter needs cleaning which I can do if you want before I ship/ Interior is black stock leather. Driver's seat has a 5" tear on the side. Armrest has a 3" tear. So I think I summed up anything that's wrong with it. Make offers and I will reply promptly and ship as soon as payment is received. Western Union is preferred payment method, althoguh I will take snail mailed money orders. No cash...no personal checks. Possibly considering setting up a paypal account if that is really needed but I don't really want to do that if I don't have to. Thanks and please make offers...the more I look at the car the more I want to drop a 3SGTE in it and right now I shouldn't spend that kind of money since I have a decent sized car payment and car insurance on two newer cars already, my civic and wrx. Let me know!

i am right with ya dustin! Even randoms that would hear a little license plate rattle while in the drive-thru or wherever will say turn the lame system off. Just laugh at em cuz they don't know dick...yeah my lame system consisted of a completely custom trunk with 2 alpine amps, infinity amp and custom done false floor that housed 2 10" type E's and everything wrapped in black velvet to match my black leather inside. then it had custom front door setup with a mbquart 3 way crossover mated to custom mounted 8" sub and the discus 5.25" mbquart components. not too mention, at the time, a pioneer 5700dvd touch screen with n64 hooked up. no, he's right...thats lame.

lol laugh right on with him cuz u know whats up dustin.

You don't "need" it. I am an installer at best buy. We dont put them in alarms because it allows you to start the car with the key without disarming the alarm. BUT if you don't use it as long as you have the key the car will still start but the alarm will be going off even as you drive (ie:::: parking lights flashing, siren sounding) so I think it has nothing to do with it. What alarm do you have exactly? I may be able to help you disable it so if that is the case for some reason, at least you can start the vehicle.

i have my 95 that is just sitting. offer me a price and tell me how to ship it and its yours

buy an alpine v12 m-605 class d mono for each sub. so loud

i got the pioneer 5700 and this is what i did...

hooked up the ebrake wire normally at first. then i took a normal switch...hooked one end to ground other end to that parking brake wire...with a diode to isolate away from the parking brake. this way u can show the cop it works the right way case he pulls u over...or u can flip switch and it works and the isolation makes it so the parking brake light doesn't come on. the n2 and d1 are different tho as they have the gyro...but there is a way to bypass it permanently...or u can hook into the reverse cam input

celicagurl - I hope you dynamatted the hell out of that door mounting it inverted. And, why would you put the mid next to your thigh? It won't get any sound. I am only commenting because I had that setup in my Celi and now one very similar in my Civic and I had my mid mounted like yours in the Celi and it sounded nice but I changed it in the civic so the mid is mounted right above the 8" and it sounds amazing. I have a little better components than you but still you will hear a world of difference mounting the mid above the 8

No get an FM Modulator. They are around $30-40 and the clarity is perfect. It actually is a little box that you must get power to as it sit inline with the antenna to the radio and actually "turns off" all other signal coming in and only allows what you plug into the audio plug come through on a set station. These are cheaper than an FM transmitter in most cases and so much better yet everyone still buys the crappy tape thing and transmitters. Go to best buy, the modulator there is right by the wiring and mounting kits and is like 40.99

I guess if it works for more than a year and the install is great it's awesome. The type of alarm really only affects about 10% of the effectiveness of the alarm...90% of the effectiveness of any alarm or security system is the install and how well it is hidden and made to look factory keeping all wires inaccessible to being cut so there is no easy way for an intruder to disable the alarm/security system. Proximity and glass sensors help as well as door handle triggers...this turns the alarm on even if someone just pulls your door handle. Also, in the spot where the tweeters go on the doors, install a sleek LED in each of those along with in the center of the dash. This will not be too gaudy and "ricey" while still saying "F--- Off" to anyone wanting to mess with the vehicle. Also, tint your hatch window if you have a hatch to as dark as you can legally. People are less likely to break into the car to steal something if they are unsure if you have anything. Just my car audio/alarm/everything else installer knowledge acquired from some of the most knowledgeable installers I have ever met.

Looks decent. I don't like the components you used at all together, the combination of a mediocre sub with an even worse Shark amp doesn't sound like it was worth all the work you put into it. I would recommend upgrading the amp at least...and then if you got some nicer speakers to match it would be an amazing system. That's a great start so far though, and I like that it looks great and still leaves some space in the trunk. Good job mang, like I said my only complaint is the shark amp and maybe a suggestion is to get some nice components for the front. Looks as if you like Iinfinity so try to do a pure Infinity system. Their reference amps are damn good sounding for the price.

Check some of the the GT4 forums. It would be an amazingly difficult swap. There are so many extra wires and electronics and sensors that need to be installed. You would definitely need the entire front clip from the Caldina...if not the entire car, which makes it almost seem easier just to swap in the ST205 3S-GTE, which at least has been done already, and do some simple bolt-ons to get to that 260 mark. Just my two pennies.

It needs to be that big. The bigger the sealed air space for that sub the better. My one huge complaint is the amp. You should really look into getting the Alpine CDA-9855 or 9860, alpine amp-link, and the new MRV-M605 V12 alpine amp.

BTW, to whoever wanted two 12" Type R's. Tell me when you are looking for them. They retail at 220 a piece...I can get them for 100 piece shipped. Just pm me when you're ready.

-Wrap e-tape around the RCA connections on the back of the deck
-Run RCAs down passenger side, power/remote down driver's side
-Buy a ground loop isolater...or diy ground loop isolater. Get a few short pieces of black wire. Then strip off each end connect one end to the ground terminal of the amp along with your actual ground and the other end put in your RCA jack...do it for all of the RCA jacks on the amp. Looks kind of ghetto but it works.

i dont really want to go take pictures of it but if you need pictures i will post them, just post on here that you need em.

one more thing. why do you have components in the back? That's very pointless and will huyrt your ears at high volumes. if I were you I would bridge that amp down to two channels and just amp the fronts...and then fade your deck all the way to the front. creating a front sound stage definitely increases clarity and quality of the sound you hear. plus sending more power to those fronts will let you turn down the gains on the amp decreasing distortion.

I like the tint job. It's not too little, not too much. And it's something that no one else mentioned that I noticed immediately. It's a really nice looking car man.

Ok, well it depends.

Option 1:
The easiest option by far. You could find a 5spd 6GC and sell yours. Would be an easy way to maybe get another 6GC that's not as old, has the manual, less miles, probably only cost you another 1500 tops. Sell yours and yeah maybe an extra 1500 tops would cover upgrading to like a 97ish manual GT.

Option 2:
You can do the labor yourself and it is documented somewhere on this site in a thread or how-to. Too lazy to search so you can. It'll be like 600ish in the middle range for all the parts you need used. Then if you do the labor yourself sweet, if you let someone do it...say Dr Tweak...just check one of his posts and in his signature he has a link to his site. I think it was like 750? Someone that isn't as lazy as me can check the real prices but I think that's accurate. 1350 total, add on 150 for the "Justin Case" (just in case) parts that always come up that you need or forgot about.

Option 3:
By far the coolest option, but most expensive. A little difficult as well. A lot of people that swap in the 3sgte already have a manual and use their manual tranny off of their 5SFE because there are some modifications and a little extra labor required to use the 3SGTE tranny...since you will most likely get it from an AWD GT-4 and the transmission is AWD. This will run anywhere from 3000-5000 depending on what you do and where you get your engine etc etc.

Option you didn't mention:
Get your transmission modified like mine was before I started the convert to manual cuz I'm doing 3sgte. Higher stall rate torque converter and other work was done so I could shift it like a manual without a clutch obviously. The car was decently quick and it was fun. Obviously it doesn't match the essence of a manual and so I don't recommend this but it is an option.


Good luck buddy, and I hope someone else replies that is not as lazy as me.

Thanks guys, hopefully in two months you can add me to the completed swap list. I have a clip coming on thursday. Will start swap next weekend. I will document the swap and take pictures, because the more documented swaps with pictures the better.

Well there's a sweet prize where you get a million reward zone points for best buy. This equates to $33,667 ... we will just say $30k. Sweet right? Well, reward zone certificates can't be used to pay for tax, so take a state that has 7% sales tax...you go spend $30k and better bring $2100 in cash with to pay for tax. What a scam. I feel ashamed to work for best buy.

Besides the first hearing is always just to plead innocence or guilt. You plead inncoent then they schedule another court day where you plead your case and the cop shows up. Cop doesn't have to show for the first one.

BTW, don't speed. What if some kid runs into the street? At 35mph you could have stopped...at 60 you can't...then you just smacked some kid with your Celica. I wouldn't want to go to jail at 18 for vehicular manslaughter.

Yeah we know they are GM, but GM steals engines from Toyota...especially in that car. Many of the parts are toyota.

I used to get it because when it was in Drive and I had the brakes on such as at a stop light waiting...the idle would be down lower than it would be if I were in Neutral/Park, or Reverse at the stop light. I have no idea why, but I had no issues and my motor mounts were solid.

With my "Manu-Matic" style tranny and torque converter I can control where it shifts without harm, so I guess I can actually respond even though my engine is toast lol. I averaged like 26 when driving it semi-hard and like 31 when driving it really nice like. I do a lot of highway miles though.

NOT SO FAST...OR MAYBE IT WILL BE FAST!!!!

Alright, well my madre says the Celi needs to be fixed. I drive my WRX now as my driver and the civic is our family show car. So, my mom wants a second car for her to have just as a backup. That's where the Celi comes in, so she tells me she will pay for 3/4 of putting a new engine in. Neat. Then she asked if I would figure out where to get the engine and where to have it installed...hmmmm. Thinking more... Then my padre says he'll give me 2000 towards it. Thinking even more... Looking at prices... $1125 shipped for a 54k mile 5SFE with a 12k warranty. My offers for install were 1700, then 1300, then I got one for 1100. That's 2225 just to get another economy engine in there. WTF? No way! Not on my clock...

Welcome me back, and soon to the swap community. In approx. 3 weeks I will be doing my own 3SGTE swap. I along with my Uncle's help did my mom's KL-ZE swap in her Mazda 626. Now we will be doing this. A much more difficult swap than that one was...but we are doing it. Thank you guys for the huge amounts of information on this site. My mom read through it and finally feels confident that with this site as my backer...I will be able to complete the swap. Thanks guys!