6G Celicas Forums

When I put used 7AFE in my celica, it had a lot of white smoke too in the start. I also thought it was a blown head gasket. The car was sitting for couple years so there might have been a lot of moisture in the exhaust system. Keep and eye on the coolant and the temperature gauge. Also check for the condition of the oil and make sure it does not look milky. White smoke in mine went away after a few days. It also did not smell like coolant or oil.

I don't think there are any hidden bolts. All the tops should be right on top. Some light blows from a hammer or a rubber mallet can be much more effective then pulling with full strength. Tap it a few times upwards on the corner and see if u notice it move.

When I took mine off it was pretty stuck too. Had to tap it with hammer lighlty on the sides to get it off.

I changed the flasher but no difference. Any ideas?

Turn signal/hazards and wipers don't work in my 94 celica that I recently got. I noticed a wire being tapped into the wipers fuse in the interior fuse panel. That actually makes the wipers work. When I take it off wipers don't work. Obiously some one rigged it but I want to fix it the proper way. All fused look good. Any ideas?

Nevermind, I found the link with instructions. Looks like I need to unclip those cables.

Temperature control knob in my 92 celica is broken. The small plastic gear behind it came out. I am trying to pull it out so I can fix it. How do I seperate the face of the climate control from what looks like a servo motor behind it. There were three electrical connections which i disconnected. There are two cables from it behind the dash. I took out about 5 tiny screws. It seems like the face and the motor are snapped in with tabs. I tried removing those but I cant pull it out. Is there an easy way without breaking those cables? Thanks.

lol thats awesome. Learn some thing every day.

Fixed! Had to take the starter out to tighten up the gound wire. Put manifold from the old engine and she started right up. When I turned the key to on position, one thing I noticed right away was that the temperature gage was all the way to cold instead of a little up it used to be even when the car was cold. In reverse, transmission used to move forward. Engine would turn off in drive. Now if the manifold fixed the start up problem or the ground fixed it, that I am not sure about but a missing ground connection was causing some weird things to happen.Thanks for the help.

My celica made a similar noise. I dropped the oil pan and found spun bearing. For me, replacing the motor myself was the most cost effective way of getting the car back on the road. Paid about $275 for a motor out of a 93 corolla (though I am still trying to get this thing running lol)

I doubt the bent dust cover can cause the leak. Its usually a good practive to replace the rubber seal and the snap ring when you put the axle back in. Atleast changing the seal should stop the leak.

Found some time to take the intake out. While at it, I found the ground above starter coming from the wiring harness loose. It was hardly touching the block. That could explain the weird electric behavior. Gonna put every thing back after work and see what happens.

I rented the fuel pressure testing kit from autozone but the brass fittting snapped when I was trying to tighten it up, so could not test the fuel pressure. By the way the fuel looks almost orange color so it definately needs to be changed out.
As far as the swapping the intake, since I had the old one a apart, I decided to clean it up since it was full of carbon. Got it assembled back together but didn't get a chance to swap it yet.

I changed out the throttle body today which has all the sensors from the old engine but the same problem. I agree with you, I am gonna change the complete intake header this evening and see what it does. And thanks for the tip about the fuel pressure. I am gonna get that too and check it out. Also the gas in the car is a year old so it might be no good. Some how the old engine was running on it though. I nothing works, I am gonna drain the gas and put fresh in. Thanks for the help!

I have disconnected the battery a few times so I would think it would reset the ECU. Yes this engine was out of a 93 corolla. The only two sensors I know of in the intake is the TPS and IACV sensor. I can swap those out. I double checked for ground problem. When the car is running, the battery terminals show 14 volts and there is less than .02 voltage between engine block and negative battery terminal so seems like engine is grounded fine.
Well I observed the behavior again today. As soon as I hit the over drive button, the car starts to bog down and the the temperature gauge goes all the way to max. So some kind of electical issue there. Also when I put the car in drive, and hit gas the speed goes up but the transmission does not shift. Essentially it stays in 1st gear (I dont have the wheels on and the car is on jack).

Thanks rave2n. I am gonna do that once I swap the manifold. I just put new NGK plus and wires, new dist cap and rotor. Still needs a spray in intake to start but idles very smooth now. While it was on I hit the OD button on shifter and it bogged down and turned off. I am leaning towards an electrical problem or short.

I have checked the timing over and over again. As for the crank timing, when the notch on the crankshaft pully is at 0, the cam pully hole lines up with the bearing mark. I have pointed the distrubutor cap at plug#1 at this point. If new distributor cap and and rotor does not solve the problem, I will swap the intake manifold. How did you end up bypassing the EGR? The intake manifold from the old engine should fit except for a a hole in the block for a metal pipe which I believe is for exhaust recirculation.

I had similar issue recently. To me it looks its not all the way in. I thought it was and when I poured transmission fluid it started leaking. I put a piece of wood on it and hit it the wood with hammer and it slided all the way in.

I ended up replacing the fuel pressure regular only since the rail looks exactly the same and I got too lazy lol. Looks like you have to take out the throttle body and top cover of intake to get the fuel rail out. Well that did not work. I took off the distributor cap and there is a notch on the distributor rotor at the contact point. It looks damaged. I will change it out tomorrow and see what it does.

I wanted to swap the intake manifold but one of the EGR pipe goes into a hole in the block which this engine I got does not have which is why I did not swap it. I will swap the fuel rail and let you know what that does.

Not yet but thats a good idea. I am going to try that this evening.

The new engine came only came with intake manifold and injectors and all sensors in the block such as oil pressure, coolant etc. Rest of the stuff like MAP and MAF sensors are from the old engine.

The new engine came with the intake manifold (including injectors). I used the wiring harness and accessories from the old engine including power steering pump, alternator, ac compressor. The header was different so I used that from the old one too (no oxygen sensor in the new one). The engine is from a 93 corolla so it does not have a crank sensor and neither did my old one.

Fuel pump was running fine 15 days back with the old engine. The engine had a knock but used to start right up. You mean injector O rings? One thing different in this engine is that its federal model so there is no EGR. So couple EGR wires are not connected to anything.

I swaped 7AFE in my 94 celica ST. Now the only way to start is to spray some throttle body cleaner in intake and it starts right up. I changed the fuel filter, verified there is spark when cranking and fuel injectors fire. Changed out the temperature sensor. Double checked all wiring and vacuume lines.
One thing is noticed is once the engine is running, the rpm will flicker if I turn the headlights on. Also If I put the car in drive, it shuts down. It will run in reverse though.
Any idea? thanks.