6G Celicas Forums

Hmm....maybe...my guess it will be fairly pricey?

Oh I should have said I have also put an order in with Tim @ TBD for a forged build .

CP Forged Pistons TBDev Spec
Eagle Conrods
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs TBDev Spec
King Race Bearings TBDev Spec (Mains, Rod and Thrust)
Ferrea +1mm Oversized Valves
Vernier Pulleys £100-160
264 Duration Cams - not sure what brand I am going for yet.
SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch
Metal head gasket

Standard stuff I suppose. Of course will be built with Genuine Toyota parts when it comes to water pump, oil pump etc. Using one of the JDM warranty replacement later blocks

Got 6 new wheels (yes, 6, don't ask!) which only have delivery miles. Better to respray a decent set of wheels than a slightly battered set is my theory. Exactly the same wheels, but just new.



Paint is on! It is currently being polished and then it's re-assembly time. Only the bonnet and roof had been polished at this point.









I am really happy with it so far. There are a few little blemishes...but when you consider that there were, literally, hundreds of dents, pitting, rust, bumps etc. I think he has done a superb job. Really superb - I was actually quite taken back by it to see my car in one colour and so smooth to the touch - nice to actually have some lacquer on it too! Looks much "deeper" if that's a word for it.

A few errors on there but good to see the ST205 getting recognition. 360BHP with just exhaust, induction kit and a boost controller wouldn't last long in my opinion!

I am sure there has been comments on this forum who say that the standard manifold is good for 500BHP. So it might be a waste of time with 270BHP? Be interesting to see if anyone has done any before and after dynos to prove either way if they are worth while.

That's impressive especially for FWD. Is it stripped out or in street trim? What tyres?

Stab a guess at what power you are running.

Thanks for the submission I will add it later.

That must be irritating!

Yeah not much is being left untouched now. Ah well at least it will look good in the end.

Weeks later I went over to the bodyshop. It felt like seeing an injured relative in hospital. Felt like stroking it and saying "it will be fine, it is for your own good" (I did actually do that, but when the guy wasn't looking).

It seems that at some point it has been in a small knock at the front. Not a major impact, but enough to bend a few brackets and mis-align things slightly. So of course that has to be corrected before it goes back together - no point in doing an imperfect job. It had also cracked the bumper quite heavily - which was covered up by the side spats. Again...no one will ever see it as it's hidden, but it has to be fixed. Taking the bumper off also revealed that one of the oil coolers was held in by the pipes and nothing else. And the air feed pipe wasn't really doing anything as it was not meeting up with the air filter...all things that will be corrected.

It had been 7 weeks now it has been in the bodyshop at this point. I know the guy goes slow so am not too bothered...and it's partially because he has spotted lots of imperfections on the car on the way that would seem wrong not to correct (and we both have a similar mindset...if we spot something it simply has to be done).

A few little bits that are starting to take shape. You may remember the air duct (it would have originally been a fog light). Ungainly as it is held in with zip ties and there is a gap round it:



He has come up with this...has anyone else done something similar?:





And for the skirts. Well...it seems that whoever fitted them enjoyed applying filler. They have been broken in various places by the looks of it by poor fitting which has led to stress points as opposed to accident damage so they are filled with a ton of filler. That is all very well...but the filler hasn't really adhered to the skirt so instead of reinforcing it made it worse as basically being a dead weight pulling on the skirt. So much was applied that it has padded out the skirt making the fitment worse (and stress points exaggerated). He took the skirt off and this fell off:







Another few things which have been corrected. The panel gaps on the rear bumper was not right (I noticed it, but keep casting a blind eye, and didn't want to stress the guy out with so much work). But it the gap was winding him up each day when he passed it so that has been fixed. The petrol flap has never been quite right - it sits too far in on one corner, is misaligned causing the paint to rub and barely pops out when you pull the lever. As he pointed out if he was to leave it like that when he sprays it the fresh paint will rub/chip off when I use it. Using an extra spring and various bits and bobs it now sits flush, true and springs open correctly .

Front wing...just to show how much pitting it has (not that anyone has ever noticed!):



And the bonnet...ahhh my poor car hehe!:



It has also become apparent now that the rear spoiler has been taken off that it has been rubbing on the boot and has actually rubbed down to bare metal and created small rust patches. Bugger. I can't ignore that so that will be fixed as well. Sort out the rusty bits and perhaps instead of the spoiler being bolted directly to the boot was thinking perhaps some rubber sheet as a gasket - you will barely be able to see the gasket it but will stop it rubbing (and also the slight vibration that you get on idle).

It had been a while so I called him up! Issues :\ It is becoming clear that at some point in it's life it has been resprayed...and not very well.

He got a paint match from one of the doors assuming it was correct and used that to start spraying the front bits and skirts. Colour is noticeably different from other parts of the car. Took sample from inside of door (where it is assumed it has not been touched) and yup it's quite a different colour. Nooo! So who knows what paint they used but it's not right. In fact looking back through photos of the car you can see in certain light that it has two different shades...I always suspected this but thought it was my eyes playing tricks on me. Different paint now ordered.

In various places paint has been sprayed on top of dust. Some parts have lacquer some do not. The most noticeable place is the roof (which is also the wrong shade of silver). I had an inkling when I was trying to polish the roof it simply does not shine...that will be why then! So the roof will be cut back and painted as well.

It has had a few bits and bobs repaired and to make it 'look right' it has been blown over with the second (wrong shade) of paint in some places but not all. Not prepped well and not much thought put into it. So now it is time to undo all that and make it right...will cost a few quid but oh well. So yeah it's basically having a full respray. Actually I think the only thing that is not getting painted, because it is unmarked and the original colour, is the rear bumper. Once the whole car is sprayed it will be obvious if that also needs paint.


Front bumper fixed and painted. Unfortunately in the wrong colour; There are over quite a few different shades of silver using the correct paint code. Lots of hours went into this - pics do not do it justice...there were bits hanging off, cracks, dents etc etc:





Dents taken out of roof:



And general body pics. As you can see it is now at the stage where it is getting a guide coat to find any high or low points:







Mid October at this point so I popped over to see how it was going. After conversations about what we would do when the computers take over and Margaret Thatcher we moved onto the car. It has had it's first light spray of colour. And then naturally mostly sanded back again. I'm not sure if the pictures do anything really but it really is looking smooth.



No more dents on the bonnet:



Rusty door bottoms? No more. The lips have been cut and re-created to near as damnit to the original. I can't even see it to be honest.





He noticed that the boot struts were a bit rusty. They have now been sanded, filled and sprayed because he could not let them "tarnish his work":



These...much prettier than they were before



So that is how it stands at the moment. I also got hold of a set of NOS wheels - exactly the same as mine but I thought it better to respray a perfect set than to mess about with mine which are a little untidy. I think I have decided on Peugeot Cossack Metallich Grey - it is a tad darker than what I had before and glossier.

So....to expand on the bodywork bits.

I took the GT4 over to the bodyshop in Watlington, Norfolk, England. Massive list of things to be done, perhaps I am going a bit over the top with it, but I want it to be right. The pland was to end end up with a front end and bottom half respray and other bits and bobs...quite a bit of rust curing and dent pulling. Below is a pic of the GT4 with someone who I have decided is the best person for the job. Have spent many an hour chatting about his past work (he's been doing it since the 70s):



You might notice there are a few circled bits. Spent a good hour or so going through all the bits and bobs...I made up a pack for him with pictures numbered of things I want doing then we went round with the marker just to confirm (and found a few more bits, whoops!)



The bottom of the door edges are starting to go and you can see rust on the surface now which is not visually appealing. I do have the option of course to source other doors, but I like keeping original panels where I can. So, if possible these doors will be saved. As he is a "proper" panel beater if need be, the bottom of the doors will be lobbed off and new ones made. I reckon the reason why they have rusted on the bottom lip is that they rub ever so slightly on the side skirts - meaning nice exposed metal, often sitting on a water trap. We reckon that we can probably get away with lifting the doors a bit - you can see that the panel gaps are consistent with making the assumption that the doors have sagged a bit.


Front upper grill is looking tired so will be painted. Toyota emblem replaced. The bonnet is covered in chips so that will get resprayed but you can also see the wings are not brilliant. Drivers side is not so bad but there are a few minor dings:



Passenger side is much worse:



So it makes sense really to get it straightened and a front end respray. Then there are the leading edges of the arches. I have seen a lot worse than this, but I want to nip them while I can. This is the worst one:



And also a bit of rust to deal with on the drivers side front wing edge:



This blemish on the rear quarter has irritated me since I bought the car. The odd thing is it's not even that bad...it just grates on me for some reason!



This also irritates me:



Perhaps I am being a bit OTT, but I want it to be right. Next issue are the TRD side skirts and TRD spats. The spats are starting to come away front the bumpers and the skirts have had a pretty bad paint job (not that anyone notices but me!). So it will be off with the whole lot, repairs made such as the odd crack here and there such as the picture below, repainted and re-fitted.



So in all, it will go through a phase of 1) sorting door out see how much work is involved 2) remove skirts etc) 3) sort crusty bits, dents etc 4) front end and bottom half respray inc skirts (need to do that if I want the doors and leading edge repairs to look right) 5) re-fit.

Well....that was the plan...

Am I assuming it's a 95 Gen 6?

If I was hazard a guess it will be that it's mapped to a higher grade fuel.

Haha brilliant video

""How many miles do you think you got there, lady?!"

And well done on the Celica

I plan on a 3S-GTE and AWD, from my understands, will be a bit slower compared to FWD. And the millage will be worse.
FWD- With that setup the wheels just pull the car out of the corner. I won't spend money with a RWD or AWD conversion. All the speed will be there up front on the wheels on the highway.


I can't see under what circumstance 3SGTE and AWD will be slower than FWD. Launching will be better and you can hold speed better through the corners. FWD the wheels pull the car out of the corner? Well yes...but it's when you push it with FWD that you realise that the wheels that steer the car aren't the best to be pulling you out of the corner - as someone said above - in other words - under steer.

Just a little update. Currently in the bodyshop getting tidied up a bit...there were a few imperfections that I am not happy with. Also got it setup properly by Ryan @ 2bar tuning. Before remap: 330.7BHP (flywheel) After remap: 366.7BHP (flywheel). Goes to show what a difference it can make with someone who knows what they are doing. He could have pushed it a fair bit more but not a good idea at the moment. Still on stock internals and clutch and ran a 12.98 1/4 mile.

Could I have a few more details celica95-95 if you don't mind? Then I can get your time up

Death: a time will be good don't have to see the slip will take your word!

Thanks for the responses guys have got the ones I can up.


My result the other month:

Car: Toyota Celica GT-Four
Year: 1994
Engine: 3SGTE. Stock internals
Power: 366.7BHP at flywheel
Time/eta: 12.9831s @ 110.03MPH
Name: Alex Collard
Excuses: Quite pleased with that. Was running 13.4 until I thought sod it will push it a little more on the launch...but then it slipped a bit in 3rd! Was taking it easy on the clutch on the launch as I have a stock, worn clutch.

Get a new wife

Alex

Comment about pressure release. Actually, that is a very good point. Will someone more educated than I am care to exaplin if there is a good reason why I should not have a pressure release? At the moment the swirl pot wil purge air to the expansion tank....but the expansion tank has no breather (fixed cap, no over-run). So this has to be bad surely. Or am I missing something obvious?

Lots of snow over in the UK...I have to say I feel slightly smug in a 4x4 sports car which is actually very stable on the snow (as long as I don't boot it...need a lot of space to do that!)

Boo! No times for me. Looks like I need to go down the strip this year then!

Hello. I do quite a few mundane things. One of those is to collect "real" 1/4 mile times from submissions via my page, forums and so on and have created my own page of statistics. Some people like this because they can submit their times and compare it with other users on the same forum, or cars of a similar power/type...or compare their own home build to much more exotic cars!

There is a distinct lack of Gen 6 Celicas on there so a few submissions would be very welcome Standard, modified and extreme are all accepted.

You can either submit (and of course view existing pages) at: http://www.aj-computing.co.uk/misc/quartermile/

or reply to this thread with:

Car:
Year:
Engine:
Power (specify flywheel or at wheels):
Tires:
Time and Trap speed:
Name:
Excuses:

If you dont have all the details, don't worry, we will leave them blank until you re-submit.

Thank you

Alex

It might just about fit there if it sat as low onto the wing as possible. But it would sit much lower..remember the bonnet is sloping so the further back you go the higher the tank can be. Personally I think mounting to the left of rad is a bad idea. Someone else might have a different opinion...I am no expert!

I don't see long pipework as a massive problem...think of the people who run rads in the back of the car!

Sorry yes should have added there is a pipe from the bottom of the header that goes to the bottom of the rad so it creates a circuit with that and the swirl pot! It doesn't seem to be a problem using a smallish header tank.

r.e using a swirl pot on its own - I suppose all you would need to do is make sure you have an outlet from the swirl pot to an expansion tank and that both are at the correct height - from what I have read the swirl pot needs to be lower than the expansion tank and the swirl pot needs to be close to the rad outlet.

Fair enough r.e the rads...but as I say...if you do get a demand for them let me know (I only know of one friend that is 90% certain he wants one so that's not much use to you!)

Ah fair enough if you don't sell them. If you do start making them let me know - it is a superb rad and wouldn't want something else if it died (can't see that happening any time soon - it still looks factory fresh). You want to get advertising on the UK based sites perhaps?

Main pipe top of rad ---> Swirlpot---> Waterpump
Header tank has a pipe from both the rad overflow and the swirl pot overflow.

Few more pics for you - taken by Loki Powers Photography:
(Just a shame I did not wash the car before he took the pics - wasn't expecting!)

Thanks

I do not have the FC Datalogit I am afraid Happy for anyone in the UK to plug in though if you know anyone?

Cheers :-) will have a think on it :-)