6G Celicas Forums

Thanks for that info. It shouldn't be too bad for me as I will be installing the lighting in the dash whilst the car is stripped, before the interior goes back in again.

Ah, I gotcha now! It was the featured Celica section that I've been seeing "Underrated over achiever" under all this time. Your car is truly inspirational, I hope you don't mind me borrowing a few ideas when I come to building my 205

Aren't you COTM at the moment TRDGT4?

Can I ask a quick (and possibly silly) question about your car? I don't want to take the thread way off topic but could you tell me what all the oil cans in your engine bay are and why you used so many? And if they're not what I've assumed they are (catch cans) then what are they?

Thanks, and obviously I will be voting for TRDGT4 - can't really see anyone beating that to be honest! I love your car mate

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Scratch the question about the cans, I found this in your project thread;

Really love the look of that spree LED kit mate. How long do you think it's taken you to install that? You think it's something that I could accomplish in a couple of days?

Keep up the great work, this little Celi is getting some awesome treatment!

I just joined the OC this week - let me know if there's anything you want information on, although being a brand new member I would like to ask permission before posting their pictures over here, just so that I don't step on anyones toes or annoy anyone in my first few days of membership.

I joined the OC because they have several things that the DC doesn't (although I'm a newly joined member of the DC as well) and because they seem to host and run a lot of meets/track days throughout the year which I will be interested in attending once I have my project finished.

I comnpletely missed this thread

Is there any way I can get a 2012 calendar at this point, or am I too late?

Okay, all great info so far but what if I told you that 5SFE engines weren't that easy to get hold of around here? Neither are 3S-GTE's tbh. The local "breakers yard" that someone mentioned is the only one in this part of the country and it doesn't generally have a lot of 90's Toyotas kicking around.

Please remember that you could fit Nothern Ireland into California about 30 times and still have a good amount of land left over... This build won't be as easy for me over here as it might if I lived in the CONUS

Most of the stuff I'm putting in it will probably have to be imported, and even the Engine might have to come over from England or elsewhere on the mainland. I'm not trying to make NI sound like some speck of sand in the Irish sea or anything, it's just that when it comes to building a high performance early 90's Toyota engine, you come across a distinct lack of engine and parts sources

Thanks for your response. Now that I'm 100% aware that the turned down 5S crank can handle big power, can anyone tell me what sort of cost I might get a 5SFE crank for?

I'm weighing up my options between going the 5S way with Eagle rods and JE pistons, or using a BC stroker kit.

Thanks for all the advice so far guys!

Why are there dozens of question marks in the title of this thread? Is the question mark key on your computer keyboard broken or are you deliberately trying to make the forum look untidy?

Well, yeah. That still means some machining and balancing, right? I call that modified compared to an aftermarket stroker crank that just drops in. Is it hard to do? I have access to CNC machinery and a couple of very talented machinists to operate them (I am trained on the same equipment but not to the same standard or level of experience as them). Do you think it's something that could be done without having to send it to an engine shoP?

Ah yes, the easy method I've seen several different place selling RTB short blocks. None of them have been as reasonable as a little under £2K for a 2.3L stroker though. That's seriously tempting, but it'd cost a bit to get over here, and I wouldn't have the satisfaction of building the block myself

I was aware of the actual purpose of boring it out, but in this application (with a 90mm stroke) you're only getting a maximum of 1mm more (87mm) over the stock 86mm. I know every little helps but isn't it more effective if you're not stroking out the block?



Hey Sunny, thanks for that link, I've seen those BC kits as well. Probably the best kit for what I want to do - much better value than the JUN stuff too! I just favoured the Eagle rods and JE pistons from several reccommendations.

You guys have already given me so much help and the thread has only been up for a few hours! That's why this place rocks

I'm sorry, I wasn't aware that I was overengineering it - I've read of people building 3S strokers with a 5S crank before, but I wasn't sure until recently that the 5S crank could handle the same power as a purpose machined, lightened stroker crank. What stroke distance would I achieve with a modified 5S crank then? And for the sake of being thorough, could you give me your input on the question of the JE pistons with the above anyway? So that I know all my options.

The 5S crank is forged, right? Where might I get one? You see I planned on building my engine with as many new parts as possible from the outset. Basically starting at zero miles on all the internals. That doesn't necessarily have to be the case, that's just how I'd planned it from the beginning.



Yes, I agree with you, it is overpriced, but I'm more than happy to pay a bit more to get good reliability and a strong engine capable of handling big numbers. I want to build it once, properly. If that means spending more to begin with, then sobeit.

Any particular advantage to running 1/2mm bigger bore on this setup? The cost of having anything machined to tight tolerances is very high here - I would have to send the engine components to England to get this sort of work done because I don't know of any engine shops in NI who do such work. This adds more cost to the build and if possible I'd like to avoid having to send stuff here there and everywhere to get work done. I don't even know where I'm going to have the head work done at the moment. Chances are that's going to be a big problem with my build when I get to it - I'd love some suggestions on good, reputable engine shops in the UK if anyone knows of any.

I'm in the process of designing a 2.2 stroker motor for a 'Four, and have made some part choices already. I'm hoping to start building the engine early (Q1) next year, so this is really just the R&D/planning stage. What I've chosen for the internals so far is as follows;

JUN custom stroker kit (Pistons & 17Kg crank. PN 1029M-T001)
JE Forged pistons @ 86mm bore for 3SGTE (PN 298701)
Eagle forged H-Beam 138mm rods (PN CRS5428T3D)

My question about these is whether or not the JE pistons will work with the rods and crank that I've chosen. I read somewhere (on alltrac.net I believe) not too long ago that the pistons supplied with stroker kits are actually stroker pistons, with the wrist pin slightly higher in the piston so that it doesn't extend past the deck on the block and crash into the valves. I'd like to have the option of using the JE pistons instead of the JUN kit supplied Cosworth ones, then sell whichever set I don't use - but are the JE pistons manufactured to accommodate a stroker crank?

As far as the rest of the parts go, I'm not sure yet, still need to think about what I'm going to use in the head - High lift cams, valves, springs etc. And I haven't really thought about what manifold I'm going to use yet either, although I know what turbo I'd like to use at this point.

The engine will be going in a weekend drive/trackday car. I'd like to start off hitting 400hp after the rebuild and then work from there, getting as much power as I can out of it for a track map.

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated

Yeah, I know I necro-bumped a four year old thread, but I need some info. Which would you rather I do, start a new thread about something that's already been discussed or bump the thread for some more information?

The Fox Rs5's seem pretty close. Is there any chance you'd like to share where you bought your Elegante rims tufy? I can't find anything about them online, and the Fox rims seem to be hard to find in 8x18. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me what rims are pictured on Tufy's car hrer? They're 18x8 5 spoke and I think I recognize the logo, but I can't remember what manufacturer it is or find the rims. Thanks in advance!

For future reference, the picture next to your screen name is called an avatar

Ah I see, the trackpad and wrist rest of your Asus look just like the newer Satellite Pro series.

Yes, you can just cut the tracks and peel them off and then solder them onto something. There are no pins on the underside of these LEDs, they are SMDs. That stands for Surface Mount Devices. What "dome light" are you hoping to solder them into?

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Just googled that, apparently it's an uncommon term (in the UK, anyway) for the interior cabin light in a vehicle... well for that there are other options apart from opening up more screens or bothering with desoldering and resoldering all those LEDs from the backlight strips - how about an LED conversion kit for it from ebay? They're not that expensive and come in a range of sizes:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Interior-Lig...4-/230465463415

Thanks for the link FORGMANN, I'll keep them in mind when I get round to looking for a new set of dials

Ah, judging from the trackpad/wrist rest that those were taken on, the Toshiba was a C6 series (C660?)? I've done some work on those new Satellite Pro models recently, really nice little laptops for the price. The LEDs seem to be fairly standard SMD types, I would assume a safe forward voltage of 3.5v and a maximum voltage of 4v for them. If you could get a macro image of the LED die itself, I should be able to tell you the actual brand of the die and look up what current it should be driven at. Again, a safe assumption for these would be a forward current of about 30-25mA.

Without sounding like too much of a nerd ( ) there's very little that I can't tell you about an LED or it's driver circuitry, but I'd need to see a pic of one of them first of all, so that I can determine the exact type of emitter that you're dealing with. If you want me to be general about it, you should be able to direct drive a SMT LED up to roughly 3.5-4v without doing damage, but a safe voltage would be 3v. If you are dealing with high intensity or high output LEDs, it's different - but since these came from a laptop LCD backlight I assume they are just standard SMDs, but I'd still like to see a pic of them so that I can tell you exactly what you're working with

Source(s); I'm an Electronic Engineer, but more importantly I design, build and collect/use high performance flashlights, most of which are LED based.

No problem at all, just glad I can help a little

By the way, in modern mechanics, MAP sensor theory often only covers it's use as an ignition timing sensor input for the ECU, but in this case it is used to read air mass data using the "Speed Density Method". This takes engine RPM and air temperature into account in calculating the approximate amount of air being ingested by the engine. This information is used by the ECU to calculate how much fuel should be injected, and also through the traditional use of the MAP sensor, it can be used to adjust ignition timing.

This is a very "heavy reading" article, but it's got all the info you could ever need on speed density method: http://support.moates.net/2010/02/11/theory-speed-density/

For the purpose of this thread though, the important piece of information from there is this:

Sunny's post has pretty much nailed it, I just want to re-word it a little to make it clearer - a blowoff valve protects the turbocharger from surge loading, which is explained at length all over the Internet. I have a couple of links to very detailed descriptions of the cause, nature and effect of turbo surging, if you'd like me to post them just let me know. So anyway, you know that the BOV protects the compressor from surging by venting the excess pressure to the atmosphere, rather than it being recirculated as it would if a CBV was used.

What Sunny said about the second gen engine is this - the problem with using a BOV on a 2nd gen 3S-GTE is that the use of a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor by the ECU to calculate the air needed by the engine for the correct AF mix means the AF mix is actually wrong because the BOV vents the excess pressure to the atmosphere - the ECU doesn't account for this. That air doesn't enter the engine because it's being vented to the atmosphere, the ECU doesn't know anything about it, and this causes the engine to run with a lack of air and the end result is that it runs rich.

Because the 3rd Gen 3S-GTE is a little more advanced and uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor, it can more accurately calculate the correct fuel to air mixture. In this engine, the vented air from the blowoff valve is not taken into the equation by the ECU, because the MAP sensor provides realtime manifold pressure data to the ECU, and therefore the AF mixture is normally correct and the engine does not run rich.

Sunny says that the solution with a second gen 3S-GTE engine is to recirculate the air back in front of the turbo in the system after the MAF sensor, that way the ECU doesn't take that air into consideration to affect the AF mixture, but it still makes it into the engine so the mixture doesn't end up being rich. This is done with a Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) in place of a BOV.

I wrote that in kind of a hurry, so if I got any of it backwards please correct me and I'll edit accordingly!

Hope this helps.

Stunning pics Malpaso... Two awesome cars! Malpaso, any chance that you could upload those in a higher resolution for me to use as a desktop wallpaper? The one of your car sitting on the side of the road with the storm approaching is truly inspirational!

Yep, that's what I thought! Malpaso... any chance you still have the video? I remember watching all the others and thinking this was the best one because it showed the interior of his car as well as (obviously) a top speed pull...