6G Celicas Forums

G-05 uses organic acids and a very small amount of silicates. No phosphates and no 2-EHA. I'm thinking the small amount of silicates shouldn't hurt the water pump seal?

I was actually going to use Zerex G-05 antifreeze. Ford, Chrysler, and Mercedes successfully used it for a long time and I converted my truck to use it as well. It's a long life formula good for 5 years or 150K miles. It's leaps and bound better than the "universal" coolants from Walmart which are just Dexcool clones dyed a different color. The big thing for me is that I can keep one type of coolant around to service all the vehicles I care for, rather than keep gallons of different formulas around for each vehicle. I've read good reports from others who used G-05 in place of "asian formula" antifreeze with great results in the long run. Has anyone else here done the same?

Thanks everyone. I do not plan to remove any hoses, and the radiator seems to be fine; the passages look clean and clear looking through the cap opening. I want to do a drain, flush, and fill to get the coolant of questionable age out and some fresh stuff back in.

I do have a problem with a stuck open thermostat however. Last night I was on the highway going about 65MPH and the outside temperature was around 35F. The whole time on the highway, the temperature gauge was BELOW the cold mark as if the engine wasn't even running. The heater was barely working, where normally it gets uncomfortably hot on the maximum setting. Once I got off the highway, the temperature started to climb and once I parked at home and sat still for a minute the temperature gauge read normal and I had heat again. The car also seems to take FOREVER to produce any heat when in cold whether.

I really would like to do preventive maintenance and replace every single coolant hose, but adding up a thermostat, radiator cap, gaskets, radiator hoses, heather hoses, misc coolant hoses, and good hose clamps it's going to cost me about $110 plus coolant, and that's rock auto pricing.

If I just buy the thermostat, gaskets, and radiator cap I am looking at $20 plus coolant. To make a long story short, money is really tight for me right now and the car is also needing rear tires. I'm thinking that if I fix the thermostat issue and get some fresh coolant in there, that would be at least one piece of the puzzle done and the car would be better off than it is today. When I have the money later on, I can drain the coolant, fit the new hoses, and pour the good coolant back in.

I have a 1998 GT Convertible with 109K on it. It's due for a cooling system flush and fill, and I noticed that all the coolant hoses look original to the car. Now the radiator hoses are no big deal, but it appears that there are bunch of smaller molded hoses for the heater core, oil cooler, throttle body etc. Adding this all up gets quite expensive. This is a lot tougher than other cars where you can just buy a few feet of bulk hose for a few dollars and cut it to fit. The cooling system appears to be in great shape and the car has never had overheating issues.

How long are these hoses good for? The hoses look good on the outside and are soft to the touch like new hose. My instinct tells me that 16 years is way overdue for replacement, but with the cost involved I want to make sure I don't spend a bunch of cash replacing hoses that are perfectly fine.

Once again, I'm checking in to say thanks for this article. About a year ago I changed my passenger side axle, and not too long after that the drivers side starting making noise. I finally got around to changing the drivers side yesterday and again this thread was a big help.

The one thing that was tough about the job was the snap ring. I tried prying it out, but like someone else said in this thread I think all that does it tweak it to side and then it gets stuck. I went to AutoZone and borrow their slide hammer and CV puller tool, but upon getting home I found out that because the cv joint is recessed into a pocket on the transmission, you can't get the puller tool behind it (1998 2.2L Automatic).

I then watched this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GC8WS3KSD8 and I was sold on the idea. The problem is, I didn't have a welder and the job needed to get done in one day. So I came up with a much sloppier version of it. The pictures show it all. I found that the CV housing had some grooves near the edge which was the perfect place for the jaws of the vise grips to grab on to. Once it was clamped on, I found out that in the rear most part of the vise grip jaws, there's enough room to get a link of chain in there. I then rigged up the chain to the slide hammer using the useless claw tool as a big washer. A few solid whacks of the slide hammer and it came right out. I did place a thick towel over the chain so that if the whole thing went flying it would settle quickly. The only downside to this is it only works if you plan to replace the axle.

Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to make this how to article! I just changed the passenger side axle in a 98 GT convertible. The provided torque specs are a nice touch, considering I don't own a manual for this car.

Thanks! I was walking around the auto section of walmart today looking for some spark plug boot grease (they didn't have any) but I looked in the battery accessories section thinking they might have had some dielectric grease, and I notice they had the L hooks I needed. They cost about $3 and they worked great. I did have to cut a little off the one that is closer to the front of the car so it wouldn't dent the hood.

I was replacing a battery terminal when I noticed that the battery has just been sitting loose in the engine bay. I found what looks to be the part that sits on top of the battery laying in the engine bay, but whatever bolts or rods that secure it are no where to be seen and I can't see anywhere that the hold down bolts may have screwed into.

Does any have a pic of the factory battery mounting? The car is a 1998 GT convertible.

I know 205/55/15 is the stock size, but seems like tire shops never have them in stock, and forget finding a used one in a pinch. That and they are kinda pricey for a 15" tire.

Will a more commonly found 195/60/15 fit the stock 15x7 aluminum wheels? I've looked at the specs for different tires that size and 7" is an acceptable wheel width but it always listed as the maximum width. Just wanted to see if anyone else here had done this successfully. Thanks!