6G Celicas Forums

load of crap no match for lambos, tricked door cards or looks?

Try this site, my kit is 2 years old and still going strong!!!
http://www.autofashion.co.uk/celica.htm

100% what a great car, I know I have to get to work to keep up with you, stunning pics.

GO LONG?

Try this setup, now you can run anything you wont with as much power as you like!!!

these are 225/40/18" they fit just fine but I have removed the front linnings to stop rubs on driveways!

nice and simple!



nice and simple!

not sure about that door kit?

not sure if this is clear but 4 might be better than 1?

The car looks great, however the kit your using looks like a cheap Chinese rip off. Use the like below to get more information. I am concerned that there is no reinforcement of the chassis before the kit is bolted on. This would support the bolts when the doors are open in windy conditions. I also note that there is only one bolt holding the to of the hinge onto the car? I have had my lambo doors on my car for nearly two years and they are still going strong. You do not need to extend the wires as there is some slack in the wiring on the car.

http://www.autofashion.co.uk/


The car looks great, however the kit your using looks like a cheap Chinese rip off. Use the like below to get more information. I am concerned that there is no reinforcement of the chassis before the kit is bolted on. This would support the bolts when the doors are open in windy conditions. I also note that there is only one bolt holding the to of the hinge onto the car? I have had my lambo doors on my car for nearly two years and they are still going strong. You do not need to extend the wires as there is some slack in the wiring on the car.

http://www.autofashion.co.uk/

stand out from the crowd, take a look at my pics?

Yes, Tweeters are connected to the door speakers but I use a small passive Xover. This is connected direct to the amp. Amp to h/unit via rca. crisp clear sound and no need to mess with the looms!!!

whats getto rigged?

best to use the power cables and harness, but forget the speakers. run the RCA's to your amp and connect the speakers dirct to the amp with good quality speaker wire. It will sound 100 X better than the current setup.

please look at my pics for possible ideas on fitting any other alt?

check all the wiring to your amp, inc earth. sounds like you could have lost a connection or just bad earth. worse case, the amp has packed up.

Pioner do a 3 way and componant set that can go into the doors as OEM. you will have to relocate the tweeters behind the door mirrors, but this will look and sound sweet.

Thanks for the comps guys, we over here will normally take out the AC unit and replace it with a 2nd Alt. However as you can see by the pics all stock parts are still in. I had to move the fuse holder to make room. The difference between 14.4V and 12V on my Alpine MRD 1000 is 500W to 350W @ 4 ohms. This is more pronounced at 2 ohm loads. So 2.4 volts makes a big difference to my bass and when you chuck in the AV and under car lighting set up 7 tubes (exterior) and five tubes (interior) you quickly run out of volts. I also use a auto blow electronic fuse in the engine bay and another in the boot just in case The line is severed in a crash as I do not want to fry with the caps pushing all that power (3 Farads). I am now looking for Solo Baraic (square Sub 15) and a beefy mono block to claim top spot in the Bass stakes. Any ideas on this setup guys???

I am told that a fuse drops a volt due to resistance? am I right?

thanks for the comp, how come you can get the pics into your reply? I had so much probs with voltage and current as I run deep bass almost all the time on my way to work. This means I got the lights heaters and wipers on and i am in traffick so the revs dont go up much. I was just fed up with the power drops that I went for the option of the 2nd alt as a number of comp cars have this. I am using the Alpine MRD 1000 but I can now look at much bigger amps for my system. I will slot a bigger mono block just as soon as the cash flow will allow.

Finally, I have added a pic to my profile, what do you think?

The Kinetick batt as described is rated as 81 amps? How do you get this up to 190Amps?

Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2"

These are the ratings from JBL for the Amps that have been used as examples. 78 to 190amps of current. This is by far way above what you can get from any stock Alt. The location of the Alt will prevent the fitting of anything bigger as it will hit the bonnet of the car. Please supply the batt details as I will swap out the one in the boot and let you know if its at all better?

Px300.4 Px600.2 BPx500.1 BPx1100.1 BPx2200.1
Power Output, 150W x 4 300W x 2 250W x 2 575W x 2 1100W x 2
2 Ohms Current Draw 78A 78A 50A 110A 190A

The Power Capacitor is an energy storage capacitor. It is designed
to supplement audio amplifiers power supply during high current
demand. The overall bass response of your audio system will be
enhanced with the using of this device due to it´s ability to store a
large amount of current and discharge it in a short period of time.
Combined with a good car battery and powerful DC-wiring will
make you experience a new dimension in the bass sound.
Another significant feature of the Power Cap is it´s ability to filter
car AC voltage induced in the system by the amplifiers power
supply which could cause objectionable noise to be induced into
the audio system. We recommend using a capacitor of 1 Farad
for each 500 Watts amplifier power. You can never have too much
capacitance in an audio system.
INSTALLATION / MOUNTING:
The Power Cap should be mounted as close to the amplifier as
possible and keep the wires short to reduce voltage drop in the
cable. Use the two mounting brackets to fix the capacitor near the
amplifier.
WIRING:
Use the same cable area to the capacitor as the one you use to
the amplifier. The Power Cap should be fused at the battery, don´t
place any fuse between the Power Cap and the amplifier. Mount
the fuse as in the drawing below. Use the same cable area for the
ground wire. The capacitor should be connected in parallel with the
positive feed to the amplifier. Use a power block as in the drawing
below. If you have a model with the power block included on the
top of the capacitor you use this for connecting.
NOTE! The capacitor must be charged before it´s connected
into the system. Read the part about charging before
connecting the capacitor.
Capacity 0,5 Farad 1 Farad 1,5 Farad
Max voltage 20 DCV 20 DCV 20 DCV
Tolerance -10% +50% -10% +50% -10% +50%
Max. temp. 95 C 95 C 95 C

connect the live feed on the timer to a relay, this will then switch on anything that the relay is connected to as long as the timer is on!!!