6G Celicas Forums

It would have sold already had it been 5 speed I'm sure. There seems to just be a lack of interest in these parts.

Check out my craigslist post for my 94 GT auto.

Thanks!

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4623785135.html

I'm interested in the flaps. I can't tell much from the pics. Are they in good shape?

To clarify, I don't do it on public roads. It is a closed circuit track.

So, I could tell my fuel pump was getting bad, so I replaced it. I fould a good deal on an AC Delco one and swapped it. It seems to work great on normal driving and even well on fast acceleration until I get over 80mph. Used to, I could get up to 120-125 before it seemed as though it wouldn't go any further. Now it acts like it doesn't want to go past 110. I'm thinking it is fuel pump related. What do you guys think? If I replace it, what is a good one I won't have issues out of that fits in the OEM bracket and all?

Lol, yeah same. And mine is a 94 GT auto 5sfe. I got 130,000 on the old girl. She's just starting to have all kinds of electrical issues for some reason. I guess she's just getting old. Poor girl.

This happened to me. It was my ignitor.

Interesting... Mine is doing the exact opposite. After getting hot there is a delayed start, then the RPMs want to die and the engine dies. I wonder if we're having a similar problem.

I cleaned the intake out tonight. I just replaced the fuel filter like 2 weeks ago before I replaced the fuel pump. It is mainly happening at idle. I'm at a total loss. It isn't throwing any codes or anything. It just wants to die at idle. It seems like the delayed start has gone away. What is consistently happening is that after I drive the car 30 min or so it heats up sufficiently and it starts falling on its face whenever I pull to a stop or slow crawl. It just doesn't want to stay cranked at really low RPMs. In park, it idles at about 900rpms and in gear around 500-700. It did improve after I cleaned the intake and vacuum lines.

It isn't the distributor. I just put a new one on yesterday. No change. I'm experiencing long start time again and it seems to miss worse when its been running 30 min or so.

I guess it could be a bad distributor. Its practically new from a reputable auto parts manufacturer, but I guess that doesn't mean anything now days. The fuel pump is installed correctly.

Hey all,

For the past month my car has had trouble starting. It would crank and crank and crank and finally start. when I turned the ignition on and let it prime, it would start right up. I figured low fuel pressure. One night on my way home, it would not crank at all. I ended up having it towed to a friend's repair shop and he told me my ignitor went bad. I had him replace that. That made it crank right up but it still had a long crank time. On my way home, the car started skipping like it isnt't getting fuel. It does it the most in gear sitting still or when I really punch the gas. I replaced the fuel pump tonight. First drive it worked great. I decided to reset my fuel/air ratio, so I did that. Right after that it started skipping again. I got out and drove it and it has the same symptoms as before. It is a 1994 GT 2.2 non-cali emissions AT tranny. It is completely stock except for a K&N drop in filter. In the past year it has had a water pump, distributor, spark plug wires, ignitor, and now a fuel pump. The plugs themselves are around 2 years old.

Quick help would be appreciated as this is my daily driver.

Thanks!

I've been running spacers. Mine were custom made, but as long as they're hub centric to the wheel and the hub you're good. Just make sure you get them torqued down good. One thing that helped with mine is getting new tuner lugs also. It helps you line everything up. I've had my GT over 130 and had no issues with them. I feel so though you'd have to hit something really hard to knock a wheel off, and that can happen without spacers.

What about tanabe? Anybody used them?

Lolz.... Wow I caused a stir. Yes. I have an all american st204 5sfe. My question was about the N/A GT model.

Anyone tried this on our generation? It looks interesting. I'm just worried about reliability. Plus, you still have the same crappy weak-ass sway bar.

http://skeijmel.nl/skrd/index.php?page=rear-anti-rollbar

I'm running 205/50/16 Falken 912s on 16x6.5 rims. There's easily room for them to fit on 7 width. They actually look somewhat rounded on the 6.5 width. My friend has 205s on his 17x7 rims. They're continentals, but regardless it works. BTW, the 912s are actually really good tires for the price. They're sticky and very controllable for all season tires. They seem to be wearing very well too. They're really quiet. Even when you break them loose it takes a hard slide to get them to squeal... which can be nice. They draw less attention. They look good too. They're sporty looking for all season. They run pretty good in the wet too. Phenomenal wet grip compared to my Toyo proxies.

I looked at pics of your car. Are you running HID w/out projectors? They don't look all that blinding to me.

Dammit... okay, so does it make my night driving better or does the light scatter too much? Should I go with 35 or 55w for low beams? And what do you think my chances of being ticketed are? lol

Couldn't you just aim your low beams down a bit more? Seems like it'd be fine...

Okay, so I know the $900 projectors are the best and easiest and all, but I ran across this kit to do HID. Has anyone used anything like this? Could I plug them right into my low beams? Or would it blind everybody? It looks almost plug and play. Would my stock lens scatter the light upwards too much? Would projectors of some kind be necessary in order to direct the light?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H13-9008-6000k-Dia...448&vxp=mtr

I don't have the cusco, but the one I got was running into the break reservoir and I was able to just install it backwards. Mine also fits snug to my hood when closed, but again, I don't have the cusco. Make sure that if you go with a front strut bar to install the OEM one on top if you have enough threads. It gives you a brace to the firewall too adding stability. A rear strut bar makes a big difference too. You can usually pick those up for around fifty bucks. I absolutely love mine. They're an excellent budget handling upgrade.

I found these on ebay... seems like a good deal.

It says 96-99. Will they fit my 94 liftback GT?

Click Here

I finally got it all worked out. It just took some patience and help. The lugs weren't lining the wheels to the adapters properly. It would probably work better if I had more tapered lug-nuts, but regardless I ended up having someone hold up the wheel with a pipe while I hand tightened the lugs with a wrench. After I could see the wheel was on strait I torqued them down. Moral of the story is, these adapters are fine if you have a lot of time and patience. I ended up having to re do each wheel several times to get them on strait. I now have no vibration or wobble. The hub centric ones would be a lot easier. Thanks for the help!

My back right wheel looks as if its on right... which is the only wheel I tightened down with a socket wrench first... so I'm going to attempt that first. If that fails, it looks like I'm going to try the camry hubs. I won't be able to work on it til friday, so I'll update you guys then. Thanks for the help!