6G Celicas Forums

This sounds like the best option here. Now that I've installed my coils, I need to look into a custom control arm setup b/c even with the camber bolts, the rear cannot go more than -3.3*(DVR) and -2.8(PASS)

The fronts are set up at -1.5* and 0 toe on both sides.

of course its lighter than the 5sfe. beams is toyota best 4 cylinder engine.

5sfe weighs 19 lbs

Go measure the voltage going to your ECU's main power, or anything that needs to have power while cranking. Come back to me with your results. 12.5V is a brand new battery. Most car electrical systems are meant to run using 12V. Anything below 12V and you should check your battery (unless you have a lower voltage only when cranking, which is perfectly normal)

The power wire going to my Megasquirt-II reads 9V when cranking, 12.5V while in the "on" position, and 14v while on.

Hey guys,

For the last few months my car has been jerking ALOT when going on or off the throttle. Its a 97 ZR(GT) 5sfe manual. Its not the normal manual tranny shake when you let off, its very violent and all my passengers comment which kills me a little bit every time. So far i've replaced the:
* spark plugs
* dizzy
* cleaned the TB and IACV valve
* new air filter
* cleaned all moving mechanisms with the throttle cable and pedal assembly to ensure no sticking

However the jerking lives on

The only other things i could think of are the spark plug wires and the TPS sensor.
I borrowed an ohmetre and did some testing of the TPS. In the fully closed position the reading is 0.4 and the allowable range is (0.2 - 5.7). When fully open the reading is 2.6 and the range is (2 - 10.2). Theres another test that is two diff pins that reads 3.4 and the range is(2.5 - 5.9). Do the first two seem a little low? Yes they are in the allowable range but almost every other electrical connection i have tried has been smack bang in the middle of the range.
I also did a continuity test of the TPS sensor. When the distance between the throttle stop screw(most commonly knows as the idle adjust screw) and the plate is 0.5mm there should be continuity and when 0.7mm or greater there should be no continuity. Now when i have it at 0.5mm (using a feeler gauge) the ohmetre reads OL and the same thing when at 0.7mm. Does this null continuity result mean the TPS sensor is bad? And could that possibly be whats causing the jerking? If not what do you think could be causing it?

Quick one at the end, what should the idle be on a 5sfe manual? The BGB says that all 5sfe no matter what year or tranny ahould be at 700, however the BGB i have is for a 98 OBDII car and mine is a OBDI. I have also read that the manual idle should be up around 800-850. Mine is currently at 700 but there is alot of vibration and i have only recently replaced the front and rear with non-polyurethane engine mounts. Should i raise it up to 800 using the screw or leave it at the 700?

Thanks alot guys!

Reece

Lights even dim when starting my Mazda3, and it has a brand new Optima Yellowtop. The car always dims the lights when cranking. Voltage drops from 12v to around 9v when cranking a car. I'm not an idiot. (comment directed at everyone else)

I'm going to do some tests tonight and tomorrow morning and I'll see what happens, but it's starting to look like something starter related rather than battery (relay or starter itself)

EDIT:
Went to start it earlier without doing anything to it, and it just decided to start over just fine.

I guess it didn't want to go to college today.

well, im about to drop about 4-5k on a turbo clip from rpm garage. I just wanna hear some input from his past customers. tell me about your experence with keith when you made an order. i just dont wanna get bent over and loose thousands of $ to a shady bank wiretransfer...

its not even about that man, i'm speaking from experience myself, you dont have to be an ASE certified mechanic to know how to work on cars. In fact, i know more mechanics that are better than ASE mechanics. But what Im saying is that there is more better stuff than Tein really. I'm not mad at all, thats just good forum talk. you should know all people who work on cars will always have debates and have different ideas and approaches. Just like engineers, IT people, doctors, they won't agree at all at times. I mean i work on cars every day, and I learn everyday, I try to contribute as much as I can as everyone else is. But imagine, i bought my set of tools, and just learned it all from internet. I'm not the best and dont want to be, nor think i can troubleshoot everyones problems online cus after all, you can only give people ideas on what to check you cant remotely troubleshoot every problem online. Its just one of my many hobbies im into and there is a ridiculous amount of hobbies Im into. I make over 100k annually in just one of my jobs and I was making that in my mid-20s. I do IT engineering and project management, Construction Management, Real Estate, Guitar Tutoring, Free Car Repairs, Free Computer Repairs, IT Consultations, Procurement services for Businesses, Vacation Touring, and I'm an IT instructor. I'm a very busy guy but i always stop by this forum compared to all my other 10 forums. I sleep only 4 hrs a day. But it's all good, we can go at it this forever, but for what? its all in good fun of car talk.

I think I just hate Tein that much that I'm willing to battle anyone that thinks they're good. but again its your car, and you could do whatever you want, at the end, its just my opinion yea? you know that....

i love you too man, haha.

obviously you have no idea what im talking about then, yes you can adjust the damper, but you missed the whole point of adjustability between Tein and other products. obviously you dont understand Teins features and adjustability. ive been here ever since, Ive been with toyotas, hondas and nissans. Ive written stickys and contributed to this site. what have you done, 1 bar here rookie? but wait let me look at your cars profile oh, its a piece of ****. sorry... spend more money on your car or work on it more or pay a better mechanic so you can sound cool...then you can talk. btw, next time don't cut springs and make your lights yellow, get wheels, better suspension, projectors, get real parts, nvm just throw away your car, or better yet its driver.

TEIN SUCKS PERIOD I DONT CARE WHAT ANYONE SAYS...If that is someone idea of their best standard of quality, I'd love to see their reaction with something better. I dont have the most expensive brand suspension only the thousand dollar ones, but they have the more expensive ones, but they love me cars rides better. They always say you drive like its still stock.

So next summer it'll be time for some new rotors since mine are getting old and I'm replacing most of the braking system. Right now I have drilled and slotted rotors on the car, but I'm not sure where they came from since the previous owner put them on. I don't know how it feels to have plain rotors on the car, but I'd rather have cross drilled or drilled and slotted on the car. I've heard of a few places such KVR Performance Brakes, iRotor (which I've heard mixed reviews), Powerstop, and then there is the stuff off ebay. I want to know what you guys would recommend as far as rotors go.


P.S. I don't want to hear any crap about why you don't need cross drilled or drilled and slotted. It's my preference, if you don't like it, don't say anything about it.

Hi All,

Any help on this matter is greatly appreciated.

Recently, when I pull off from a stand still my car has started bouncing on the front end. It's quite a hard bounce that knocks and bangs and rattles everything in the car.

I have no idea what is causing this but a friend and I done the usual bounce the car by pushing the wings test and everything appears to be evenly matched left to right.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what the cause could be?

If needs be I will try to get a video of it happening but it will be from inside the car with my iPhone mounted on the screen mount.

Many thanks in advance

Rob

nope thats not the problem, you have to remember, tein coilovers dont drop that much if you look at the recommended drop heights, most people just force it to drop low. but my friends cars weren't dropped low like they might as well use springs. I fully understand the bump stop part, suspension is one of the major things I work on these days. If you know Teins, you'll know their dampers and spring rates are not that great because its made for Japan roads that go slow or rarely any bumps. US and other places have crazy roads.

Myself, i can tell the difference because I owned many different suspensions and installed many for friends, so I can REALLY tell. I owned 3 suspension setups for my 6gc, 2 setups on my 7gc, (ALL DIFFERENT BRANDS) and many for the supras back in my day. Have you tried other suspension springs or coilovers yet and different brands?

I have a 1994 ST-205 GT4 and I'm getting a clunking sound from the front driver side only. It happens when I am at a complete stop and starting to drive in 1st gear. I also notice that it clunks from a complete stop when im going into reverse out of my parking spot and again when driving away in 1st. All other other gears are ok. The clunk feels like its coming from below my pedals. I searched forums and so for I replaced what everyone suggested.

super strut
Lower suspension arm
Fig 8 link
Banana bar
Uprated crush tube (jsp)
Hub top ball joint
Track Rod End

This is killing my wallet!!!! That is almost all the components except the endlinks and front sway bar bushings. I still get this clunking!!! GRRRRRRRRR..
What else can cause this first gear clunk? Please help its driving me nuts!!!!!

Any recommendations?

Oh lame. According to their craigslist posts they do!

I thought I remembered seeing an importer in Lynnwood. Foreign Engines Inc I think.

yes the 5S trans bolts right up to the 3S. if you had done your research you will see that they are both S series engines meaning the same bolt pattern. before you do your swap, please read the stickys and do more research

its not necessarily the best choice, its more of an economical option. at least you can still get a 3sgte flywheel w. ARP bolts and 3sgte clutch system just make sure you get hub made for the 5s. I used an ST185 lightened flywheel.

No one wants free parts? Im gonna trash them this weekend if no taker

I happen to have a 3sgte for sale