6G Celicas Forums

What jets were used to make the 196 whp ?

I have both a rfl and stock abv and often swap them when I am bored. The stock bov sounds like a softer rfl. Sounds better IMO , its only audible when you get on it as opposed to the rfl that's loud all the time. Sometimes I think the rfl blows off in vacuum too lol.

I'm with smaay on this one. The OP is overcomplicating a simple thing by overthinking everything .

If I were in your shoes I would just pick up the 3sgte turbo parts ( manifold, turbo, down pipe, lines etc )and bolt on the 5s . 3s guys are selling these parts dirt cheap when they upgrade. Sure the CT26 are old but replacement turbo's go for cheap all the time. Keep it simple with the 3sgte parts and if the turbo dies down the road, rebuild it , swap in another or get a CT to t3 adapter and pick up a good t3 flanged turbo to replace it.

Stay clear of eBay turbos . No matter what anyone says the facts are there . They are hit or miss. They work great for some but are night mares for others. You don't want to be the one who gets one and have the compressor wheel come off and pollute your engine bits of metal. The risk is not worth it.

For 400 whp you gonna need injectors in the 750cc range if you gonna be on pump gas and in the 950cc range if you wanna do e85.

No need for bigger injectors when using a fmu. The fmu is meant to be used with stock injectors and it simply bumps the fuel pressure by a preset ratio for every psi of boost . So for example if you buy a 5:1 fmu and you have a base fuel pressure of about 40 psi, for every lb of boost your fuel pressure will go up by 5 psi .

0 psi boost = 40 + (0 x 5)= 40 psi fuel pressure
1 psi boost = 40 + (1 x 5)= 45 psi fuel pressure
5 psi boost = 40 + (5 x 5)= 65 psi fuel pressure
7 psi boost = 40 + (7 x 5)= 75 psi fuel pressure

Safc is a good cheap device if you on a budget but it has a really bad disadvantage. When you use bigger injectors and a safc to trim , everytime you take off fuel through the safc the ignition timing actually advances which is very bad. The more trimming you fuel injectors need the more you timing is advanced.

My suggestions if you cannot afford a proper standalone or proper piggyback (AEM FIC).

Option 1 : Fmu and better fuel pump on stock injectors.

Option 2 : 2 bar Toyota map sensor + fuel injectors approx 2x the size of your stock injectors and a good fuel pump.

If you are not knowledgeable about a subject please don't type nonsense and further mislead anyone who will read this .

Nitrous is no different from any power adder, supercharger , turbo etc. Its obvious if cylinder pressures etc exceed piston/ rod strength or whatever when using nitrous, they will break just like it would if you run a poorly managed or high boost setup on a turbo or s/c 7a.

Saying a 7a cannot handle nitrous is just ignorant. Any engine can handle nitrous/turbo/s/c etc. The only difference between nitrous and boost is that nitrous is a lot less forgiving than boost. Also some engines can just handle more boost/nitrous on stock internals than others.

With the above being said , I see no reason why a 7afe cannot take a 75 shot of nitrous. Premium gas or better and retard timing accordingly.

I personally would do a 100 shot without thinking twice but I would highly recommend some sort of ignition controller or standalone at that point to retard ignition by 8 or so degrees upon nitrous activation and slowly feed the timing back towards redline. If you just retard 8 degrees of timing across the ignition map by simply retarding at the distributor you leave a lot of power on the table.

forget the above paragraph if you just gonna run a 50 shot or so.

Without overcomplicating this I will tell you , yes you can turbo or "convert" your 3sge . Pick up a stock manifold, turbo, downpipe , oil lines etc from a 3sgte , get a fmic and piping kit off eBay , sort out engine management and you set.

There are basically two ways to lower your compression ratio. Either get some 3sgte or low comp pistons or get a thicker head gasket

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scrip...p?idproduct=185
"Showerhead" nitrous blocks

As a precautionary measure I would upgrade the fuel pump.

Copper plugs will be fine , 1 step colder.

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread, what size jets are you running ?

With nitrous oxide one should not rely heavily on wideband readings especially if you are using a fogger system. I highly recommend you learn to read spark plugs. Spark plugs never lie.

Secondly I suspect the lean afr your dyno graph is showing as soon as the nitrous is activated is probably a fuel pressure drop in the fuel rail when the fuel solenoid is energized. What fuel pump are you using.

Lastly I highly recommend you change the distribution blocks that came with your zex nitrous kit. The distribution on these are horrible. The bottom two ports get the majority of the nitrous distribution. These two ports are connected to cyl 1 & 4 so they will run leaner. You may say that your wideband is giving you a good reading so all is well, but unless you have wideband sensors just after each exhaust port then your wideband is getting a "combined" AFR for all 4 cyl . So cyl 1 & 4 may be seeing a 13:1 AFR and 2 & 3 may be seeing 10:1 so when these 4 reading combine in the exhaust manifold before the sensor , its none the wiser. This brings us back to my previous point, "learn to read spark plugs"

All in all , I like your build. Good luck.

Divide psi by 14.7 to get boost in BAR.
10 psi ÷ 14.7 = 0.68 BAR
14.7 psi ÷ 14.7 = 1 BAR

Manual boost controller will work just fine for you.

Sad to hear you not keeping the SC . what are your future plans if you don't mind me asking ?

Capping of the wastegate to tvsv port would allow you to run wastegate spring pressure (8-9 psi) if you were going past that then I believe your wastegate flap wasn't opening all the way with the downpipe on.

I think the problem here is not being addressed. Wastegate hoses should be hooked up as follows ; compressor nipple > wastegate port 1

Wastegate port 2 > TVSV

If your tvsv works just hook up everything and enjoy stock boost .

Another route you can take which I also took ; cap off wastegate port going to tvsv and cap off line going to tvsv and hook up manual boost controller between compressor nipple and wastegate port 1 and adjust boost to whatever pressure you want.

Last option is same as above, but you omit the boost controller and just run off the wastegate spring. 9-10 psi .

Nice build, made a lot more power than I ever thought possible. I may have missed it but do you have a FCD installed ?

With the addition of any turbo to any NA engine fuel mods are mandatory. Bare minimum I would do 315 injectors and 2 bar map sensor,

option 2: is stock injectors and 10:1 or 12:1 fmu.

Option 3 : safc and bigger injectors

Option 4 : piggyback or standalone

A walbro 190 lph or 255 lph pump is also a really good idea. 5,8,10 psi , it doesn't matter, you are inducing more air so therefore you need more fuel.

Really interesting, well documented, build. I think you have a good thing going there. I would just pull the head off, replace gasket and if pistons are done, throw in some 4agze pistons. I think an investment in a good ems is a good idea.

We built a 5afze some time ago. Stock 5afe with 4agze sc12 on about 7 psi . You can read about it on my site http://www.budgetracer.webs.com . I still need stop being lazy and update it.

Good luck with what ever route you choose to take.

Lots of attention to detail here. Keep up the good work.