6G Celicas Forums

*Bump*

unfort. that is just the cost of the shipping.
It would end up being around 116 due to the shipping cost ebay is telling me.

US $56.80 United Kingdom USPS Priority Mail InternationalTM
6 to 10 business days*

Selling my Brand New KYB GR-2 front 2 strut cartridge for 94-99 Celica's

More info can be found here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...E:IT&ih=013

Thanks for the help everyone. I was hoping that website was a bit much but its off to the junk yards for me. Thanks again.

hmmm I guess I am the only one who ever needed a hub

Thanks for all the help everyone. Now i get to talk to the ebay guy and see if he has the sealed one. I'll keep this updated for all those who want to know.

Sorry for my noobniss but does this piece come off or is this a seal?

Not sure if this is the correct forum but I've had some some banging coming from my rear passenger wheel when i press the brake down. Yesterday me and my friends were able to find out the hub inside is bent a little causing it to flex in and out and making my rotor not straight.

Anyways I am in need of one and didnt know if anyone knew a website you might be able to find it. It has a abs wheel at the end of the bearing. The bearing itself seems fine so is it possible to just get the hub itself? And if so how do you take it apart?

Only one I could find using google was one that was around 300$.

I feel like a idiot me and my friends took the right front off but didnt look to see if you could replace the insert.
We thought you had to replace the whole assembly.

If you have a sealed strut does that mean you wont be able to replace the cartridge and you would need to buy the whole assembly again?

Sorry if the answer is somewhere but after some searching I was unable to find the answers.

I drive a 99 celica gt

I recently ordered a set of kyb gr-2 struts/shock from ebay. As I was in the process of installing it I realized the front strut/shock look noting like it.

My rear parts I got were a exact match. My front look like the back but with differant hole alignments to bolt on with.

My front strut/shock box says they are cartridges.

As I am still new with cars I was wondering what they front were ? I read about a optional sport pakage and was wanting to know how you would tell if you had that pakage on your car. Also did i get the wrong part or can the shock be removed...? It looks like its welded on like that back(Is this a sealed strut?)

Anyways i hope you get the jest of what im talking about and would appreciate any help you could offer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-GR-2-SH...tem310028753440

Best picture I could find. I recieved all 4 products standing up in the picture but my front to me look like the 2 on the left but with differant bolt patterns.

Thanks for all the info

I was hoping I would be able to due this modification, also you saved me some money to buy a timing light . Since none of my friends had one.

Now im confused. Is it or not ?

Reason i ask is after the info bout 96+ distrib ive been searching the forums and havnt found someone with a advanced timing with a 96+ celica.

If it is does that mean i need to create a way to mount it different? (seen in picture above)

Bare with the terrible picture above.

After probing the forums I havnt found the most idiot proof answer to advancing your timing, or ecu diag.

Here is what i know:

Step 1. jump TE1 + E1 in your diag box
Step 2. start car
Step 3. loosen bolt a little bit and turn the distributer.
Step 4. Im lost here

So i perform step 1 and jump it with a paper clip, start my car and notice my check light is not there or is flashing any codes, altho my idle is so bad that it bounces at 100-300 rpm.
So i jump it with a wire while the car is running and while it isnt. Whats odd is the fact that when it isnt on I idle normal but the second i place it to jump my idle drops and my car acts like it is about to stall.

Ive read the manual made by Haynes and followed there steps but with the same above results, rough idle or check light stays on with no flash in ignition mode or it goes away for good when its on.

Still with me? Do i need to do step 1 if so anyone know the reason behind it? And by chance does anyone know what i may or maybe not doing correctly in jumping it.

So moving on to step 3.
From reading websites and the book it talks about loosening it enough to just turn the distributer. However when I loosen it it has no move either way unless i remove the bolt iteself. After its removal I am now able to turn it. On a side note I dont have a timing light at this point and I am about to get one but a friend mentioned that you can hear it enough to know when you are overdueing it. So with his help I turn it until my car sounds like it is about to die than turn it back counter a little so i am not near that max we hear, and it sounds like its running smooth enough. Like the picture above my distributer is now about that far from the main screwing point, so i am having to set it back in order to screw it in.

So i stroll more along the forum and books and on one of the forums i found someone talking about how cali celica have a different ecu + distributer. Anyone know if this is true ? And how do i find out if my car is cali spec?

What's wierd is the haynes book doesnt mention a difference and said the jumper should work along with the same loose and turn direction from other sources ive seen.

Only thing i could think of and please correct me is: Since the timing is on the ecu you jump it to sorta have acess to its code in timing after you turn it to the location of your desire you stop car remove jumper and it will save it on the ecu?

My engine is st204 and 5sfe on a 99 celica.
Well youve survived my babble I hope you got the jest of it and your able to help me out.

Thanks for the information. I am going to take the wheel off soon and see if its tighten properly. I was unsure if the caliper might have been messed up.

My passenger rear caliper makes a clicking noise everytime i drive now. I the wheel off and as i spin it (lifted) my caliper is bouncing up and down. (Dont know the name here: There are 2 screws that allow you to get easy access to the brake pad, the item that the screw holds in has a black rubber boot I guess holds it into place?)

Well anyways its that part that keeps bouncing up and down and i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Ive taken it out before and greased the shaft that goes into the rubber and it seemed to have stoped for a few days. Is this piece of the caliper soppose to move or is it soppose to be stiff. If so the thread the screw goes in might be striped.

Anyways i hope someone is able to understand the above babble and may have some detail information on what the problem might be. Ive asked the dealership for some detail spec but with no luck.

Thanks!
Fellow 99 Celica GT owner

Not sure what kind of Kumho to get. My friends told me to try them since my cooper tires suck in traction, Im really just trying to find a decent set of 4 with better traction during the rain as my current tires dont have any.

If anyone has any advise of tires let me know. I might also look at the 205/50/15 or something to that line.

Thanks for the fast reply

I am thinking of getting Kumho since i can get all four (195/55/15) for around 250ish but the 205/55/15 are like 350ish expensive i tell ya

I'm on the verge of replacing all four of my tires at the moment i still have my stock 15 rims. I was wanting to know what tire sizes i can put on them, i know the ones i have on there are like 205/55/r15.

I was told i might be able to put 195/55/15 from friends since it might be cheapier.

Thanks for the reply's all... i took my rear tires off and i changed the pads... they were pretty bad and i think i might need to get my rotors resurfaced. Was told by someone to just buy new ones because the cost would end up being about the sam. So for now im running with new pads and im gonna save up money for some new rotors(drilled what ive been wanting).


As far as the callipers go i didnt know they could do that so thanks for the heads up.. as you have read im not very knowledegeable about the inner workings so i will also be trying to save up for some new ones... I think i saw one painted already that looked nice but i forgot where... ill have to ask someone around town


But it just seemed odd that i had no problems with it than after stopping at a store and leaving that it happened.. Than when i went home it took a couple hours to cool enough to touch.. Oh well


Just wondering tho... do the back ones drag while the car is in motion? Because im not sure if this is what u meant by siezing up: Took tire off and moved caliper to get to pad used a c clamp to push the insert back after putting the pad back on i taped my brakes to lock it back and place and i checked the calipers and it locked on the pads in a tight postion again, like it might be possible to drag.

Hello!

First off i would like to appoligize for any stupid questions this topic may bring due to fact im not 100% sure i understand the braking system in the celica's


So i have a:

99 gt stock

My q is:

1.My car today was driving fine than all of a sudden the back of my car sounded like a piece of metal scrapping a chalk board... (it was so bad i stoped driving for fear of messing my car-but i was far from home) So after pulling over and seeing if i got something stuck in my tire's i went home with this horrible noise trying to drive as slow as possible... On the way i smelt like something was burning but since i was in a residental area i thought it was a cookout.... and the fact that the noise stoped. So im at home and start to look in more detail and than i realize the smell was coming from my brakes.... so my first thought is to just clean it out... so i fill a glass with hot water and pour it on my brake... so much steam came out of it and i realizez that those werent rust spot but the pads were bright orange....


So i know my pads must be bad but what i dont understand is the rear of a fwd car is the emergency brake? well im very carefull not to do anything to my car like pulling my e-brakes unless it is dire emergency.. so why would my pads be gone?

And why all of a sudden it made noise... didnt even know it was a problem(let alone go from quiet cruise to flamming orange)

Thanks for all the information

Kinda makes me wish i held on changing wires... oh well about time to change it anyways

Thanks for the information but i have 2 last question to ask....


Dont laugh....


How do u know if you had a misfire in your ignition?

Also i have bosh wires was this a mistake to put in?

Been having a debate at work about the benifits or stupidty of changing my spark plug + wire + adding
a ignition control system into my car. Here is the debate:


Stock 99 celica
Only mods are custom pipe and CAI
plantium +2 plugs

Would changing the wires + ignition control help improve performance or since i dont have a supercharger or
turbo would it be a waste of money since the stock spark might be enough for the compression it makes?


Personally i would think the bigger the spark the better... but i dont know much about cars and would thank you for any information.