6G Celicas Forums

Looking at the wiring diagrams (5SFE), the wiring to the injectors is different, and there is a 2nd O2 sensor (I've got 1).

Is it possible that switching to a US GT-spec exhaust system might be enough to get me through emissions, without having to modify any wiring? Not sure exactly how strict things are down there or how clean the Celica runs as is.

Hi all,

I've got a Canadian GTS and I want to take it to California with me. I know there are several differences in the engine wiring, an additional O2 sensor, etc.

I know it's probably easy to sell my car and buy one down there, but I'm not looking for that answer. I'll do it if I have to, but my car's a peach and I'd rather keep it.

Has anyone successfully licensed a non-California Celica in California?

Thanks,

-kevin

well at least *yours* is working properly.

For the idle-up circuit: Look for a black, 2-wire connector. On the 7AFE engine, the connector is on the rear-driver's side, near the top. My wiring manual says one wire is red/yellow, but that might not be accurate. There should be 2 hoses coming from the solenoid. You can test the solenoid by connecting +12V to the TOP pin of the solenoid's connector, and the bottom pin to GND. You should hear a click.

I'd recommend getting the belts and compressor checked. If it's worse when you're driving around (I assume that's what "in gear" means) then it likely isn't the idle-up circuit that's the problem.

The A/C is supposed to activate an idle-up circuit when the compressor is engaged. It should raise your idle *above* normal. The shop manual says 750rpm without the compressor going and 850rpm when it's on. (5SFE)

The idle-up hardware consists of a vacuum solenoid and a hose or two, mounted to an upper-rear corner of the engine. Yours might be broken or missing. If the A/C was installed at the dealer and not the factory, it's possible they left this part off. It's happened before. See if you have a 2-wire connector hanging loose near the back of the engine.

The only other thing I can think of is that your compressor is putting too much load on the engine even for the idle-up circuit to handle (i.e. compressor failing) but that's not likely.

I used to drive a turbo car (Merkur XR4Ti) and I really miss the balls it had. That and I just got a raise and money burns a hole in my pocket. It's time to turn my Celica into the car it was supposed to be.

Just looking for some answers/opinions from all you wise men who've done the 3SGTE swap. I've been going back through the posts to get the info I'm looking for, but some of it isn't turning up so I'll try and get it all done with one post. The car is a GTS (Canadian GT).

- 2nd or 3rd gen 3sgte
I'd prefer the 3rd gen, but since it was never used in US/CAN I'm wondering if future parts would be a little more painful than the 2nd gen. 2nd gen also cheaper and easier to find.

- motor condition
Did most of you tear down the motor when you got it or just compression test it and stuff it in the engine bay? I figure it might be a good time to have the head checked, gaskets replaced, etc.

- front clip?
What sort of parts end up being needed from the clip? Is it a bad idea to just get the engine?

- reliability
The car is my daily driver... is the 3sgte just as reliable as the 5sfe for the long-term? I don't want a pure racing machine... just a fast but reliable car that's fun to drive.

- transmission
My S54 will bolt onto the 3sgte, but how long will it last with the additional power? Looks like most people are still using it without problems. Any other options like the V6 Camry transmission, etc.?

- parts
I know the engine basically drops in, but is there anything on the car that has to be removed (or fabricated) to make it work? I'm guessing an exhaust downpipe, cooling hoses, and stuff like that have to be worked on.

- A/C
Here's a dumb one - can I keep my air conditioning? Do the existing lines hook up to the compressor in the same place?

- wire harness
And another - I understand you have to lengthen the engine wire harness (or something like that) because of the JDM engine being from a RHD car. Is it not possible to buy a new LHD harness from toyota? I thought I'd seen some LHD GT-Fours. (or is this $$$$$)

Last question, if I do this, will I be able to drive another Celica without being a little bored?

Thanks all!

I'm adding OEM fogs to my 94 and I'm looking for the following:

The connector from a 96+ wiring harness that connects to the turn signal/headlamp/foglight switch.

I can buy the switch at the dealer, but for the connector I'd need to buy the whole interior wiring harness I think. If anyone can get one I'd really appreciate it. If you happen to have a wiring harness to sell, I'd go for that too. Has to be from a 96-99.

Thanks!

I don't have the switch yet. I'm going to buy the factory switch on the headlight stalk. I believe it's a ring like the intermittent wiper adjust on the other side.

My first thought was to wire it up like you've got it, but I figured it would be cool if I could somehow merge it with the car's fusebox / harness. Probably more trouble than it's worth.

Hey all,

Some idiot smacked my front bumper so I'm replacing it with the 96-style cover. I'm getting the fog lights as well and I'd like comments from people who have added OEM fogs to a 94/95 car. I'd like to keep it as stock as possible.

I'm assuming that only 96+ cars have the wiring and sockets already. Anyone know if this is part of the car's main wire harness or if it's an optional extra harness?

Has anyone out there added fuses/relays to the box under the hood or the kick panels? There are several unused fuse ports available. I have the 96 wiring diagram for the fog lights and would like to copy it as closely as possible. I'm going to use the factory switch with fog light control.

While I'm at it... has anyone swapped the front bumper cover from 94/95 to 96+? A few parts like the energy absorber and signals have to be changed, but I'm more concerned with mounting point differences, etc. Is it a direct swap?

-kevin

hey guys,

i've been trying to remove the roof light plastic piece as well. i took out the screw, but the thing still won't budge. it's as if it's attached another way as well.

are you sure it's just the one screw? i feel like i'm going to break it.

thanks

-kevin

ok, so if I only want to replace the A/C light with a blue LED, I don't have to worry about adding a resistor, correct?

The resistors are just for the 3 bulbs that provide the illumination?

I'm going to go searching through the forums now, but I might as well ask the question in this post if someone's going to reply to it anyway:

What model/part# of blue LEDs have people used to replace the A/C light (and other smaller lights like it)?

Thanks,

Kevin

Well, you have a few options here:

1) Buy a "manual transmission" starter. With these, you have to put the car in neutral, get out, and shut the door. The car will shut itself off and arm the system. If you open a door, it cancels and you won't be able to remote start. Basically the system ensures that the car is in neutral. I bought a CompuStar, which is both automatic/manual, so I went this route. Kind of annoying if you forget something in the car and have to open the door, but it's the safest way to go.

2) Buy an automatic remote starter and install it yourself (because no reputable shop will do it for you) and then hope you always remember to leave it in neutral.

3) Construct your own neutral safety switch. One guy did this by installing a spring around his gearshift (under the boot) which would contact the shift lever if it wasn't in neutral. Sounded kinda hard to do a clean job with it.

Whichever way you go, you've gotta bypass the clutch. Most remote starters have an ground output that activates when you press START. Connect that wire to a relay. Connect the other side of the relay coil to constant +12V. Now tap into each wire going into the clutch switch and connect them to pins 30 and 87 on the relay. This will result in the clutch switch being bypassed ONLY if you're remote starting.

The clutch switch is closest to the firewall... the other one is for the cruise.

aren't the window stops only used for adjusting how high the window goes up? the window goes up to the correct height, but I need to move it forward and tilt the front end down slightly. the shop manual shows 3 bolts on the carrier at the middle of the door.

that's weird. you make it sound like the window should be completely free to move once i loosen those bolts. ("have somebody hold it")

i can't move it at all. i loosen the bolts and it just sits there. i don't need to hold it. i can see how i'd be able to move it around in the carrier holes, but nothing's moving. it's like one of the bolts is still locked up tight, but i loosened all 3.

i know it can't be completely jammed in place because the body shop just moved it when they fixed the door lock. (nice job guys... try putting it in the right place next time). i'm sure i've got the right 3 bolts so i really don't have a clue what's going on.

oh well... i guess i'll just take it back to the body shop and say "fix it" the next chance i can get in there.

thanks for the help anyway guys!

thanks for the info.

I tried to adjust the window by loosening those 3 bolts on the carrier, but it won't budge. how much force am i supposed to put on it? it feels like i'm going to bust something if i try any harder.

Is there some kind of trick to this? from what I can see, the window should just slide around when i loosen those bolts.

Hey guys,

I had an air leak in my passenger side window so I had to move it around a bit. (I think it was put in the wrong place when the doorlock was repaired)

I've stopped the air leak, but now as I close the door, the window ever-so-slightly makes contact with the front of the plastic piece of the quarter panel window.

When the door is in its final closed position, the window appears to be in the correct place - about 1/8 inch away from the plastic piece. My concern is that in the winter, the brittle plastic piece may break when the window brushes it on the way in.

I don't know anybody else with a 6th gen that I can look at... should the window touch the plastic of the quarter window while it's closing?

Thanks

Kevin

Hey guys,

I'm planning on adding factory fogs to my 94 (with a 96-99 bumper).

I'd like to do the wiring up as stock as possible (i.e. install a new factory switch, add all the normal relays, fuses, etc.) so basically the car would be like a 96-99 that came with fogs.

I haven't been to the dealer yet - am I able to purchase the wiring harness for the fog lights? Is there a kit containing all the stuff I need?

Has anyone done this with the factory parts?

Thanks,

Kevin

excellent. thanks dude!

where do the fog light mounting brackets connect to? the plastic bumper cover?

I'm thinking if I put this thing on, I'm going to want to put the fog lights in. Wiring them might be a chore, but probably nothing too horrible.

thanks

-k

Hi all,

I've got a 1994 Celica and I'd like to put a 1996 front bumper cover on it. I think the newer style covers look a lot better.

Are the bumper covers interchangable? Or are the mounting points different between the years? Any other parts that would have to be changed to make it work?

Anyone done this?

Thanks guys,

Kevin