6G Celicas Forums

Your grammar makes it a bit difficult to understand your question -- or if you have one.

nope, just observations

From what I can gather, the temperature guage would fluctuate when changing speed -- I'm going to guess that it was reading a lower temperature at higher speed. The thermostat you had in the car when you saw this fluctuation tested faulty on the stove, opening too early and closing too late. You then replaced the thermostat with a Stant thermostat.

Yup, bored with too much time on my hands


The rated opening on the Toyota thermostat is 82C, with maximum opening of 8 mm at 95C. You can buy aftermarket thermostats which open at 76C, but I'd rather not. Seeing the temperature in your car drop as you drive faster indicates a thermostat stuck open, or as yours demonstrated, no longer calibrated to open at 82C.

yup, sure is. I wouldn't go 76 because its too cold. Engines are more efficient at warmer temps.

Since you replaced a faulty thermostat with one which tested good, you should be done. Only caveat I would add is to be sure you installed the new thermostat with a new gasket, and with the jiggle valve correctly aligned.

You are not supposed to change fuel filter on those cars, it is made so that it should work all the car's lifetime.

Toyota probably will tell you this if you try to buy a new one from them.

If you got a lot of dirt in the fuel tank I might consider it, but if not, I would just keep it as it is.

P.S. I am female, take that as you will! lol

Hey, here's one quick noob question: Does our cars have micro filter? Because when it's raining or my clothes are little wet, it needs quite time on max ventilation for my car to defog. Any help would be great.

Thanks

Sounds like you have a bare wire somewhere. Try checking from the ac relay as starting point.

It does matter, system is designed to push the coolant in a certain direction and pull it back the other way. Reversing that flow can make it that much harder to get air out, cause poor heater performance due to low flow, or even (if one side has a restriction) erode the heater core and cause a leak.

on the heater system, which side is the send and which side is the return? What I mean is which side is the engine pumping into the heater core and which side is the return back into the engine? All hoses are disconnected and I have a different engine in the car now so I can't look at where the hose is going. I would guess that the heater control valve would shut off the water pumping in from the engine and the return would be on the other side. Neither the Chiltons nor the Haynes manuals have a cooling flow diagram. Thanks!

the bolt is loosening or the flange is warped?

this that many miles, just change everything, to do a teardown and rebuild, will cost you about 500-700 bucks. same as cost of a used engine that you have no idea what condition it is in. do not trust any junkyard that says " oh its low miles and good running" i have had to rebuild countless of "these" engines.