6G Celicas Forums

Sorry i have to ask did you check your fuses? I think most of them run off the same fuse.

If its the mounts than all you do to check is rev the engine if you hear the knock then its the mounts.
Its easier to have someone else rev the engine while you <with the hood open> watch the mounts and listen to the engine.
... bounce test if you get the car going how many bounces are "Normal" i go with 2 tops
have you changed the tires recently? Proformance tires add more grip which may cause the car to "bounce" at take-off.

Thanks for the feedback I had the tires at 48 PSI the recomended amount from the guys at Tire rack to fit my car with the custom rims and tires. even if they were over inflated the tires would have started cupping or wearing from the center. found out the mechanic wasn't so good he screwed up a couple of the other cars camber and did/attempted a four wheel alignment on a rear wheel drive truck.

Never going there again

So i got some Dunlop Direzza Z1 tires for the Celi 205-50 R16. had the car re-aligned within a week. Anywho they ran fine for the first 2000 miles then the car started to rumble and I shrugged it off (because of a different problem with the harmonic balancer). When I was rotating the tires I noticed really bad cupping on the inside of both front tires. I checked they cant rub on anything, struts are not great but still pass the bounce test, properly inflated tires. One thing I should say is that the cupping starts on the lip where the tread grooves are. The only thing i can think of is that the tire is too squared off at the lip and the cornering is pealing off the rubber. any other ideas?

Too late to take a picture.

Pics?

I have the Stock Koito headlights and broke one of the bolt clips when I hit a @#%*ing deer ... anywho i bought a new welder and need to know "What kind of plastic it is"

sorry im in no condition to drive.. just hit a deer. an the previous owner was a real d!ck. i'll add pix as soon as my pc starts working properly.

still have the fog lights? any pics?

if you disconnected the wires to the alternator and the light went out than it has to be the alternator. the wires leaking would have kept the light on. It has to be the alternator. clean the connectors up with some sandpaper and use (dio-electic compound) when re-installing to prevent corrosion "that green stuff". you can get this at any auto zone or car parts store they sell it for installing light bulbs.

Hope this helps.

Mine does the same thing, for me its to cold for the battery to maintain a good charge.

Ok the first thing to do is to run the car get the battery back to 12.2 (ish) volts turn off the car and disconnect the positive post on the battery connect a test light to the positive post on the battery and the positive cable. if your cable is grounding out than the light will turn on. also try on subwoofer power wires. (allow 2 min for light to turn off for normal systems to shutdown.)

If its not the wires, than keep the cables hooked up and turn the car to acc mode, then turn it back off and pull the key and close the door(s) the light will turn on in the test light.
wait 2 min for light to turn off if it dosn't than pull the power to the alternator (the alternator has diodes that if diffective will pull power from the battery) wait another 2 min for light to turn off. if light stays on replug alternator.
Now start pulling fuses. if the light shuts off abruptly when you pull a fuse than its in that part of the system that the power is being drawn. not the best way to find the problem but very effective.

my test light faded slowly without pulling any fuses so i came to the conclusion that im not really losing power through the system but i might be wrong.

alternator would be the first thing i would check and good luck