6G Celicas Forums

our buy/sell forum is where you'll find the parts you need, and for cheap.
otherwise, ebay and car-parts.com are some alternatives.
also i'll be selling a set of oem headlamps in about 3 weeks time if you're interested.

Sucks man. I hit a deer just north of Osoyoos last fall. Stupid deer. Best of luck on finding parts. Where are you located? There are some forum members in AB that might be able to help.

I'm actually in the process of repainting my Celica with Rustoleum using a roller. It actually comes out really really good if you take your time. Once it's all done I will post full pix. I took some pix on my phone as a sample of how the paint looks:



And other laying out in the sun:

What kind of rebuild?

Just gasket replacement?

Replacing all bearings and rings?

Everything?

I went down the 'everything' path, and let me tell you, its a ton of work. Simple things that you would think should be a piece of cake end up taking forever. An example is trying to remove old rtv compound from the oil pan. Sounds easy, just peel it off. Nope few hours and a special brush later its finally done. Then again I take the overkill approach to these things so maybe I'm not the final word on the matter. I know there's a lot of people on here that have done a good job that can chime in

those are shifter cables.....


In other news heed the advice from pressure2.

Valve cover gasket is the most common failure. Replaced mine at 189xxx about 3 weeks ago

I've been eyeballing this specific Celica for a long time. This thing makes me... ... ... excited. I really want one like this, but not with the stupid Camaro paint job. Just murdered out and stanced out like this one.

I like how they look stock. Not really much for some of the cosmetic mods people do to them.

Don't like the fender well covers, aside from that I like it.

Little dirty, nothing horrible. Run some auto trans fluid in there for a few oil changes to clean some of the gunk out, about 1/2 quart in place of 1/2 quart of oil, so 3.5qt oil and .5qt auto trans fluid. Doesn't matter what kind you use.


for the valve cover itself, get one of those carb dip buckets and a plastic tub with lid big enough to hold the valve cover, dump the carb cleaner in the tub over the valve cover and let it sit over night, in the morning pull it out and go at it with the garden hose and some purple power with a scrub brush, toss it in the over at 250 to dry for 30 minutes OR just let it sit in the sun for a few hours. It'll be nice and clean again.

Great time to sand and paint it if you wish.

I'm not sure where on the car you're at but those could be parking brake cables.

Take the timing cover loose and look inside for oil, very common for cam seals, crank seals, and especially oil pump seals to leak.

very common.
no need to pull the engine.
cam seal,
oil pump seals
valve cover gasket
distributor seal kit

those are your main seals that leak on the 5s over 100k miles.
while doing the timing belt side seals, also a good time to do the water pump and t-belt if it hasnt been done alredy.

yeah i think that's the problem, the rubber seal around the cover. Do you know where i can get a replacement?

So me and my friend had a stupid idea to try and color my valve cover. So after the deed was done we drove it from Garland to Dalllas and when we got to the destination the engine was smoking and we tried to put oil in again so we could get home. Then we got home it ran out of oil again. My question is, what happened to make it go like that?

So me and my friend had a stupid idea to try and color my valve cover. So after the deed was done we drove it from Garland to Dalllas and when we got to the destination the engine was smoking and we tried to put oil in again so we could get home. Then we got home it ran out of oil again. My question is, what happened to make it go like that?

I bet its the same leak I have.


Where do you see most of the oil? Crankshaft side?

I can't remember what it's called right now but there's a white spray you can put on the engine after you clean all the oil off. The leak will easily show against the white spray so you can find it with ease. The guys at the auto parts store will know what it's called.

i'd clean it up and check. is it leaking from the dizzy, valve cover, power steering, etc. Did you check all your fluids for abnormal levels?

So it wasnt leaking oil before you changed the oil and oil filter earlier today. And it started dripping oil( define "alot of oil") after it was parked immediately following the oil change.



It sounds to me like you left one of 3 things off, loose or damaged-

The spin-on oil filter- it needs to be as tight as you can turn it by hand( an extra 1/4 turn with the wrench is best). Make sure to smear some oil around the rubber seal. Whenever possible you want to fill the oil filter with new oil before you screw it on, because you want to reduce the amount of time upon startup that the filter is filling and the engine is running without oil. It should be located on the front of the block next to the exhaust.

The Oil Filler Cap- Oh yes if you leave this loose it will vibrate off the engine and oil will spray everywhere.



The Oil Drain Plug- The drain plug needs to be torqued down or it will usually start leaking. It should screw in by hand until it bottoms out, then you need to torque it down with a wrench. I dont remember the exact torque spec but I tighten mine hard with only 1 to 2 fingers on the wrench/ratchet. Using less than 5 fingers limits the amount of force you apply. If yours is damaged you can buy a new drain plug for a couple dollars at the parts store.

To gain access to the leak you will of course need to remove the plastic liner under the passenger side engine compartment. Next I would drive the car to a self service carwash(the kind you feed quarters) and pressure wash the engine compartment. Make sure to always leave the engine running if you wash it or it may not start again. Dont directly spray electrical components, wiring, hoses or gaskets on the engine with high pressure water. You want to be especially careful around the distributor and spark plugs. Make sure to blast the underside too to remove all the grime. Finally you would rinse it real good with water. Now that its clean any leak will be much easier to detect with the engine relatively clean. It will also make the engine easier/cleaner to work on.


Anyways.....
Good luck with it and let us know how it goes. So long as the oil light doesnt come on with the engine running then no worries.

Just not a fan of them anymore, I guess I outgrew the trend or whatever you want to call it.
I still have them in, just barely ever use them.
I just hate getting asked, "Are the switches for Nitrous?" "Are the switches for your hydraulics" and other stupid crap like that.
Its also a pain in the ass having them in the vents everytime I have to take my deck out. (Everywinter before storing it)