6G Celicas Forums

I'm looking for a good used distributor to get my car going again.

Just experienced this myself except the water issue. I couldn't start the car at all but lights would come on. Tried a few things and after reading this I unplugged the distibutor and I can now at least crank the car over. First major part to fail on me in 100,000 miles of driving.

You don't want to machine one. You should be able to buy generic flat gasket and cut it to fit. I have made several for other gaskets before just make sure that it can handle the heat.

You might have a plugged catalytic converter. Are you gettting any codes? You could test this by taking the cat loose and driving the car. It will be loud but if it drives fine then you know that is your problem. If it already had problems running it could have plugged it up with oil or extra fuel.

Do you have the stock antenna base? I don't need the mast just the body mount. Thanks

Also did you start a new Celica project? I thought you sold your 7AGTE Celica?

With your car lifted up try to pick the tire up. If you can move the tire up more than an inch your struts are bad. I have bad struts and the rear tires look just like yours. The other question is, how often do you rotate your tires?

Unless you notice a difference at take- offs then don't complain. That is about the RPM that you should be at for that speed with the OD on. Also it isn't another gear it is just the torque converter in front of the trans locking up. It has a clutch and most of the time it is unlocked and allowed to slip and when you are cruising at a constant speed and not accelerating or decelerating then it is locked.

Bleeding isn' too hard. You need someone to help you or a really nice tool. You could buy a brake bleeding vacuum from a parts store and just use that. All you have to do with help is to find the slave cylinder and while someone else holds the pedal down you open the bleed screw on the top of the slave cylinder and then close it before your help lets up on the pedal. Then repeat till only fluid comes out and no air. Just remember to close it while they still have thier foot on the pedal or else it will suck in more air. If you buy one of the bleeding vacuums then all you have to do is hook the hose to the bleed screw and open it and pump on the vac untill all you get is fluid then close the screw. Also make sure the resevoir never goes empty or else you have to start over again.

There is no difference between the Camry header and the Celica one. Same engine. Also wraping is done with fiberglass header wrap from companies like DEI. It keeps the exhaust gasses hot all the way out of the header and keeps under hood temps down while keeping the exhaust flow up. I wrapped the header for my ST and I noticed an instant difference. Also I can almost hold my hand on the header after driving it. Here is what it looks like.

A couple of things to look at is if there is anything cloging airflow throught your radiator. If you had your AC on at the same time then I would look at the condensor and then radiator.

Blue or black smoke at any time is oil burning, white smoke at any time is coolant burning. Blue smoke only at startup is valve seals and during running or acceleration is usually rings.

Sounds like it is worth it. Just don't keep the 7AFE. Swap in a 4A and have yourself a nice car.

Throw out bearing is going out.

All you have to do is take apart the lense housings and re engineer the reflective surfaces. The low beams are set to be a wide low aimed beam the highs are mean to shine a focused beam so you can see farther. You can't change that but if you want to give a "on" look then you could dirl a hole in the side of the housing and insert a running light. Use a lower wattage bulb than a headlight so it won't produce the focussed beam.

It sounds to me that you need to get your alternator "Load" tested. If it can't handle a load at any engine speed then it is bad. Also the idle up when the AC is on is more for the ac compressor, so that it doesn't kill the engine.

If your car is California emisions standard.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/bin...CAemissions.jpg

For all others.
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e362/bin...CAemissions.jpg

Where are you getting an extrude hone job done and how much is that costing you. If it is done right you could outflow a 4AGE. I also think that you should look into getting your head flow tested. After you do that you can figure out your perfect lift from a cam and get your cams reground by any cam manufacturer.

No it won't help at all. If you have advanced your timing it will keep your engine from having detonation resulting in burnt valves or holes in the piston. This is why turbocharged cars have to use it is because of the combustion pressures. Advancing your timing will make the spark happen earlier and raise the combustion pressure due to the piston not being at TDC yet when the spark plug is fired.

Take it back to the shop that did the work. Either Netrata is right or they overtightened the timing belt and that is wining. Either way they should warranty it.

Check the shops bending technic though. If they do thier own crush bends then it won't help much, best would be if they buy different degree mandrel bends and use what they need to custom fab the exhaust.

If you are referencing the header down pipe then yes there is a difference at the end of it where it connects to the rest of the exhaust. The rest would be something you would have to compare.

If you want to spend 5 grand on a NA motor there is a Beams 3SGE on ebay. It is a complete swap. Just because it doesn't get done doesn't mean you should do it. Usually it means that others have tried and decided it wasn't worth it.

Check your axles. Usually torque steer is caused by one axle wraping up and the other not, causing the wheel connected to the axle that doesn't wrap up to pull sending the car to the opposite side. What dirrection is your car going? If right then it is your right axle which is the longest axle and would explain the problem. Also a LSD will only amplify the problem. Another thing is you could have other worn out parts in the suspension that could be causing one wheel to change alignment and causing your torque steer. I would check your front suspension out and see if anything is loose or worn out.

Everything depends on your head design and your intake and exhaust runners. If you have long small intake manifold runners and small ports in the head, intake and exhaust and a long small tube header then you will have low end torque but no high end power because the engine runs out of air volume because of the small ports and tubes. If you have a short large intake tubes (ITB's and velocity stacks) and large ports (port and polish anyone?) and short large tube header (zoomies?) then you will have high end power but no low end torque (this is because there is no velocity in the air but volume). Toyota designed these engines to have a close happy medium with fuel efficiency thrown in. So just changing your intake and filter will only help remove restriction and gain you more top end (volume). If you want to gain more then port and polish your head, I recommend a professional for this, and change your intake manifold and exhaust header. If you want more low end torque then change your head for one with a smaller ports (not feasible for most engines) and change your intake and exhaust manifold to match. As stated before some engines were set up to adjust the intake runner to partially gain low end or high end but not much. As some people do they make a hybrid 7AGE with the 4AGE head because of the difference in design, but some of the heads were designed for volume/flow (large port) and some were designed for torque (small port).

What you probably heard was your rear tires locking up and skidding. Might have bounced a little from your tires, depends on your sidewall size. The emergency brake is exactly as the name says it is, it's for emergencies and parking. If you lose the regular brakes it is a way to stop your car. Also as said by others the park brake shoes are a pain to change and they aren't made from very tough pads because they aren't supposed to be used for regular braking.