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Nov 15, 2012 - 8:29 AM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #994077 · Replies: 6 · Views: 1,849
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
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If you are willing to part it out I would possibly buy the turbo, manifold, fmu, and fuel pump.

I would have to see pictures of all of them first. I checked your build thread and could not find a picture of the manifold or fmu.

Nov 4, 2012 - 11:37 AM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #992916 · Replies: 8 · Views: 2,170
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 4, 2012 - 11:12 AM) *
QUOTE (anonymous @ Nov 3, 2012 - 9:55 PM) *
I'll give you $75 shipped for the manifold. It is a T3 flange correct?

its a t25 flange. nothing that a little cutting and welding cant fix, although i doubt they will seperate the parts, im pretty sure they want to sell it as a whole kit.


I was curious to what the flange was; I have plenty of flanges laying around to weld on to it. If they decide to separate it please pm me.

Thanks.

Nov 3, 2012 - 8:55 PM Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #992869 · Replies: 8 · Views: 2,170
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


I'll give you $75 shipped for the manifold. It is a T3 flange correct?

Sep 18, 2012 - 7:52 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #987813 · Replies: 22 · Views: 4,873
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


If my 7afe gets to 227k miles and the biggest issue it has is burning/leaking oil, I will be a happy camper.

I'd replace it with another 7afe or rebuild yours if all you are looking for is reliable transportation. Only swap if you want more power and the extra power is worth the extra cost/effort to you.

Sep 17, 2012 - 11:22 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #987708 · Replies: 202 · Views: 493,459
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
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What is with the torque dip from 3250-4800?

Sep 17, 2012 - 10:31 PM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #987702 · Replies: 10 · Views: 2,598
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
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Restricting your exhaust to aid in boost control is sacrilegious imo. Upgrade the wastegate and enjoy the gains from the larger exhaust. 3" is a good size for most 4cyl turbo cars.

Switching to OBD2 will not benefit you in any way. The easiest cars to diagnose are those with a standalone with a data logger. I can turn my key on, turn my crank by hand and see in my logger when the spark plugs and injectors are fired.

The BOV can be connected anywhere between the compressor discharge and the throttle body. I have had them on the cold pipe and the hot pipe and there is no discernible difference. If your car has a mafs or an afm you need to recirculate the bov discharge back to the turbo intake (post afm/mafs and pre turbo). If you do not you will have stalling issues and extreme rich conditions between shifts.

It sounds like you are in over your head. I recommend you step back and try to learn the fundamentals of engines, forced induction systems, and basic efi engine control before you make choices you regret. If you knew what the bov's purpose was, what the afm does, how the ecu uses the afm, etc. you would know how to hook up your BOV from principle. Learning is half the fun; mindlessly bolting on parts is boring, unrewarding, and usually expensive in the long run.

Sep 17, 2012 - 9:54 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #987699 · Replies: 27 · Views: 4,531
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


I see a 240sx every day, sitting in my driveway smile.gif . It is hard to find them because most of they have been wrecked or salvaged for parts. Get on a 240sx forum and you will see people parting them out like crazy. The reason is because the parts are very desirable and are often worth more than you could get for the car, especially if the body is in rough shape.


Sep 17, 2012 - 9:32 PM Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #987697 · Replies: 39 · Views: 46,521
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
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All the pistons look like they have seen their fair share of detonation. Who tuned it?

Sep 16, 2012 - 11:45 AM Forum: Forced Induction · Post Preview: #987487 · Replies: 19 · Views: 7,476
anonymous

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Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


It sounds like you may not be getting a cylinder position signal (cam or crank position) to the ecu. Verify that you are getting 12v to the coil and to the injectors when the key is on. If so I would suspect either a fried ecu or a cylinder position signal issue.

It is odd that it will start up on the 5sfe ecu. Look at the pinouts for both ecus and see the locations of the g and ne pins. This may hint to your issue.

Sep 16, 2012 - 11:29 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #987486 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1,899
anonymous

Enthusiast

Joined Sep 16, '12
From Louisiana
Currently Offline


Hello. I'm new to the site and new to toyota. I bought a 94 celica ST 5spd yesterday with only 115k yesterday. The paint is faded pretty bad but the interior is near mint. I bought this car for cheap, fun transportation to and from work. I am a chemical engineer and work in a plant that exhausts steam with entrained caustic, so I'm not worried about the faded paint or how my car looks. I just need it to be reliable and somewhat fun to drive.

The car has a few issues I need to address: front suspension knock, no pressure in radiator hoses, A/C leak, bouncy suspension (worn/blown struts), time for new timing belt and water pump, etc. I know how to diagnose and fix all these issues in general ( I have done these jobs on other cars in the past), however would like to have the factory repair manual for the specifics (timing marks, torques, etc.).

Does anyone have a pdf copy of the factory repair manual for a 6th gen ST? I searched and ended up on celica tech. The link for the 6th gen repair manual does not work there. If you have a copy and are willing to share it with me please PM me and I will give you my email.

Thanks in advance!


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