6G Celicas Forums

if you have a lift so that the car is over ur head than it wont be too hard because things can be seen clearly and have the freedom to move around with no problems, and with experience of course it wont be as time consuming. but for someone with no experience im sure it can turn into a nightmare. after i finish ill put up a copy so that it could be double checked and edited.

im breaking all the details into details, with pics of everything. im determined to make this as clear as the english language allows. i just need time to type everything and organize it, everyday i try to get somethin in. just bear with me

im going back to break everything down into more details with more detailed pics, as far as holding on to the engine i just use two floor jacks, then 2 towers i guess they're called to hold on to the car. ive done it this way with a 93 mx-3, 97 eclipse, and celica. i am by no means saying this is the safe way to go, this is just the only way i that i know how to do it w/o a lift. if someone would like to help me with this part please do.

****still adding changes and pics updated 2/27/06****
howto
once u are 120% sure that you clutch or tranny need to be replaced find the parts that u need, whether its a whole tranny or a clutch. I First thing take a picture or a mental picture of where everything goes especially wire connection, once you got this begin by to remove everything that blocks your view of the transmission. and by this i mean

shifter cable
slave master cylinder
battery
air intake
the black box left of the battery
battery starter

**some other little things, im taking pics of everythings!!!**


use preassure2's advice



then something like this



jack up the car, i placed two jack stands on the chassis of the car along with two floor jacks on the engine(will put up pic soon). next thing to do is take out both axels, the right one is pretty easy to take off and left one tends to give trouble because of some safety preasure thing that holds it so in since only the other side has the safety bolts.
ill begin with the right one, take the tire off and remove the axel nut but make sure you remove the safety pin before you do this. This next part is taking off the breaks, **you dont have to do it** but i just do it. to take the brakes off there are two bolts on the back of the rotor i believe they are 17mm. this will release the whole caliper. it is not a good idea to let the caliper hanging from the brake hose since the caliper weighs about 40 pounds so you can use a bungie cord to tie it up or let it rest on something or dont take it off at all.
brake bolts



the two bolts that hold the strut and hub assembly together have to taken off these are 19mm i think.
here is the pic.

struts bolts


after this is done you should be able to pop out the axel from the hub assembly. The axel will not come out right now, there are two bolts that are part of a safety lock to prevent the axel from ever coming out, these are located at the midpoint of the axel, (pic is coming soon) once these have been taken off that axel can be pulled out(pic). for the other side the process is the same. the only difference is that they're is no safety bolt. this can be a pain to get out. here is a old post that can help
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19611&hl=

now that both axels are out, the tranny needs to come down.

SECURING THE ENGINE

the front, back and passenger mounts will need to come off before the tranny comes down. but u cant do this until the engine is secured. im going to tell what i did **not a very safest way**and the hanyes way which is much safer. I raised the car and let it rest on the chassis on two stands(one on each side). i let the engine rest on a floor jack with a piece of wood to provide a surface for it to rest on, than another floor jack with wood right where the tranny meets the engine.



HANYES way

.........*........

---------how to----------

Before anything there a couple of thing that you must think about and think about. Im not a mechanic, my father is and ive learned from him almost everything from him. ive changed 3 transmissions including this recent one on the celi, it could take anywhere 1-2 days worth of work but you can save about 700 bucks. ***keep in mind working with this can be dangerous, the best way is to do it with a lift but most of us dont have one so things are done basically laying down on the floor which can mean something falling on you for example the tranny.***i will try and go back and be as detailed as possible with some pics of everything.

she back running!!!!!!!!and tranny change "how to" coming up with pics, just need a few days.

i will try my best to come up with one

here is the diagram, these are all the gears, the 3rd gear in the one in the middle where it says 3rd, that was $29. to get to all those little parts have to be taken off, as u can see there are lots of parts here but this is only half on the entire picture u see when u open it.


new tranny

the car only has two o2 sensor one up stream and one downstream. the car should be giving you 24-25 mpg in the city 28-30 in the highway. since u already did a full tune up the only thing that i can think of is that u used the wrong plugs. by this i mean platinum head plugs are needed for this engine. u can verify this by looking no the side on the engine, there is a small tag that say platinum plugs only. if u put the regular one in there, ur gas mileage would go down.

u we're so right......i was truly shocked when i opened it

horrible news, i got the synchro today as well as a diagram from toyota. let me say wow i was in shock. its nothing like what i pictured. i began taking the tranny apart, after having 50 pieces layin around and not even halfway in the the synchro i called it quits. after this mess i realized why they charge 400 bucks in labor. this aftertoon noon i went to the junkward and got me a tranny with 56k for 450. so ill be puttin it on this weekend. ill scan the diagram so u guys can see what i was dealing with.

hey man i dont see how ur cvs would break. ive had both the front and back mounts totally shattered and when that happens the engine just begin to knock because its hitting metal parts. but not to the point where it would break the boot it apart. that axel goes from the tranny to a safety lock to the rotor of hub whatever its called. from what i know about this car and from working on it, i dont see how that is happening. where are u gettin ur axels from?

stepped means turned right? like when u turn a rotor? i had it done, the only thing that has me thinking is those dull spots on the fly wheel, ive never seen those b4. friday i get the synchro in, i have no clue what it looks like or where in the tranny it goes. trial and error along with comparison will be my way of gettin it on there.
-oscar

i had two jack stands on the chassis of the car u can kinda see them on the first pic. humm....if i had a lift this would be soo much easier.

when ur clutch is soft, as in no preasure on it ur problem is ur clutch master cylinder.

i brought down my tranny today b/c my clutch was gone, and synchos are mess up. while i was doin it i took some pics, maybe they can help someone down the road. best advice do it with a buddy i spent maybe 6-7 hours on it today and still not finish, with a buddy im sure it would have been less. this weekend will be the interesting thing, the 3rd gear synchro has to be replaced. it was only 29.99 from the dealer but im not gonna pay 400 for someone to put it in. that is all of what i left to do b4 i can put the tranny back on. ill take some more pic while i work on that too.
first i jacked up the car and took the axel off( 45 minutes)


took everything that was in the way off and pulled down the tranny(1.5 hour)


took the old clutch and flywheel off(20 minutes)


had the flywheel turn and put it back on(40 miles and 20 minutes puttin on.)


new clutch set, putting it on ( 1 hour)

pm

fuel pump

coomer can we get a comment here? is this cool with you?

never heard of such a thing done b4. but for the trouble ur going to go through i dont think its worth it.

im in

3s engine, ull be happier and much better in the long run.

wait, what? u want two alternators? i dont believe u will benefit at all from this.

i know u can find the rear mount at advance, the front only at the dealer. its about 60 bucks. usually only the front mount and rear are the ones that get messed up.
here is some helpfull info on where the mounts are.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...&hl=where+mount

i tried to do it my self, ending giving up after 2 hours b/c of the bubbles and wrinkles. go to a place to have it professionaly and get a lifetime warranty. mine cost 165 w/ the lifetime warranty.