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Jan 24, 2018 - 4:15 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1095695 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,522
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QUOTE (Box @ Jan 24, 2018 - 3:26 PM) *
How many miles has it been since the rebuild? Supposed to change the fluid and filter every 25,000 miles or so.


Its been 15k miles since the rebuild. Its probably close to that time then smile.gif. Could give that a try thank you! Also where is the filter? Are you just referring to the magnets in the transmission oil pan?

Jan 24, 2018 - 2:33 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1095688 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,522
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Hello everyone my celica has been running great for years after my rebuild and i always had a running rich check engine light. I recently now am having troubles sometimes but NOT ALWAYS engaging into a gear from either a dead stop and trying to go again or shifting into a new gear. Seems like when im going and driving it doesnt have any issues going into any gears but from a dead stop it sometimes wont get into the gear unless I rev up to about 1.5k-2k super embarassing at stop lights as you can imagine. Any advice would be appreciated. Let me know what you guys think that I can start checking.

Things I have checked.
Transmission fluid is full and havent had to add any.
No new check engine lights or codes.

Thanks for your time!

Jul 21, 2017 - 12:56 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1091981 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,501
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Hmm so I looked a steering knuckle from a 95-99 camry and they have speed sensors in it which doesnt bother me that much as i dont see this being in the way, I noticed the brake caliber positioned slightly different on the camry as well so i think this is already not gonna work, the bolts that are in the camry that attach to the strut is larger as well (22mm) oposed to the (19mm) that I use to get my bolts off of my knuckle. Other than that I dont spot any noticable differences. So maybe I will wait till the right knuckle is in a junkyard. If anyone knows of any other knuckles that are a exact match from a different car or the previous gen celica let me know.

Jul 17, 2017 - 2:06 PM Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #1091837 · Replies: 7 · Views: 2,501
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Hi I have a bad wheel bearing in the front passenger steering knuckle so I bought a new wheel bearing to be pressed in and the tech said I need a new spindle cause the bearing was so bad that it grinded down the spindle, since these are expensive I want to just go to a junk yard and pull an entire steering knuckle to replace mine with. The junk yeard doesnt have any 94-99 celica's. Will a previous gen celica 5th gen have the same steering knuckles? Or will one of a 95-99 camry work? Any information will be helpful? Thank you for your time!

Feb 19, 2017 - 10:53 AM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1088445 · Replies: 5 · Views: 2,211
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QUOTE (The_enD @ Feb 19, 2017 - 6:23 AM) *
Lower quality LEDs will start flickering after a while.
It matters how you put the bulbs, they have positive and negative terminals, rotate them 180 and see if they work.


Thanks yeah I tried rotating them and still nothing, keep in mind these are only the canbus LEDs, the noncabus LEDs work but very soon start flickering. are you running LEDs in your celica? Have you had success with them? If so you can direct me where to buy good quality LEDs that wont flicker to use in my gauges. Thank you for your time and help guys!

Feb 19, 2017 - 1:08 AM Forum: Interior/Audio/Electrical/Wiring · Post Preview: #1088439 · Replies: 5 · Views: 2,211
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Hey guys so I did the simple LED conversion on my gauge cluster by simply ordering some T10 led's (non canbus) and they were really bright and my gauges worked great! but then the lights on them after a few weeks started to flicker, so the big thing about that is people use canbus LED's (basically just a LED with a resistor) and then that should take away the flicker everyone is saying but my problem is that I went and bought a set of canbus LED's and I cant even get them to light up in the gauge cluster (but they work great in the license plate light part so I know the LED's are working) I think its really strange, is anyone else having this same issue? is there a different way I should go about fixing this flicker issue?

Feb 19, 2017 - 12:43 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1088438 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,349
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Sweet ok so I did manage to get it out, here is what the problem was, I started to easily pry on it and then gradually pulled harder and harder with make shift things lol. Anyway the reason it didnt come out was because when I pried on it slowly it must of expanded that ring that holds it in at that point no matter what you do it wont come out, even turning the wheel a little and pulling on it with incredible force, what happened was I hit it back INTO the transmission even tho it physically looked like nothing moved or happened and then spun the wheel and tried to do a quick jolt of force to get it out (doesnt have to be a ton of force either but a pretty good pull) and it came right out! So what really happened was when I hit it back in was that it took the pressure off of the ring and allowed to collapse, at that point i was able to spin the tire and pull on it again with a quick little jolt and out it came! smile.gif Thank you sooo much for all of your help! And I hope this post will help others in the future as well!

Feb 13, 2017 - 10:44 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1088292 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,349
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wow thank you for all of the responses! I cannot get it with a pry bar alone unfortunately. I tried taking a sludge and putting rope around it and making a slip knot around the inner cv-joint and still nothing kindasad.gif I guess ill look at the sliding hammer idea smile.gif, I never used one or have any idea of what you guys are talking about with using the rope with the sliding hammer, can someone send me a example of how to set it up with a sliding hammer? sorry for the noob question guys and thank you for all of your help!

Feb 13, 2017 - 6:01 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1088278 · Replies: 7 · Views: 1,349
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Hey guys I have a 94 Celica ST and trying to replace the CV axle on the driver side, i got the new one and i cant get the old one out, the inner cv-joint is stuck in the transmission, is there a trick to getting these out?

Oct 30, 2016 - 7:26 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1086187 · Replies: 9 · Views: 1,885
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QUOTE (Smaay @ Oct 30, 2016 - 3:25 AM) *
did you jumper Te and E1 when you set the timing


Yes I did, thank you! I should of mentioned that in my original post. I also do have another o2 sensor for the car, i removed it and put on the other one a year ago as part of the little rebuild I did. so I will put on the other one to see if theres any changes. And Thanks Box! I will look into those 2 areas too! (water temp sensor, and egr which im sure egr is fine cause i did have a egr code earlier and got basically everything new on it cause most of it was trash, but never the less i will still step through it as things could of messed up smile.gif).

Oct 29, 2016 - 6:28 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1086160 · Replies: 9 · Views: 1,885
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QUOTE (BonzaiCelica @ Oct 29, 2016 - 7:23 PM) *
Though I've been a member for a while. stuff Like this is still uncharted territory. best Of luck. the Wise guys should chime in soon


Thank You smile.gif

Oct 29, 2016 - 3:29 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1086156 · Replies: 9 · Views: 1,885
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Hey Guys I have a 94 celica st and been fighting forever to try and get this thing to run right. I am getting a code 25 that I cannot figure out. according to the book its - Mixture control -continuously lean and possible causes are - Wiring, injector, H02S, intake/fuel ignition system, valve timing, ECM. I timed it according to the book which is 750rpm at idle and at operating temp with -10bcd. Then I replaced all spark plugs, wires, o2 sensor about a year ago, fuel filter, idle air control valve, I had another set of injectors which are the yellow top ones and so I put those on and still have the code, and the throttle position sensor today. The thing I dont get is when i reset the computer each time I replace a part the car runs fine for about 60 miles and my gas mileage is where it should be and i can go up small hills without down shifting, but after the check engine light comes back on i then have to down shift to get up the same smaller hills and gas mileage goes to about 25mpg. and only get about 260-280 on a full tank of gas. I also have a hesitation every time i step on the pedal ALL the way (flooring it) and this happens at no matter where I am in the rev range. Any ideas on what this can be?

Jun 5, 2016 - 12:05 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1082490 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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K added my new gasket, only did the throttle body to the intake manifold for now. That resolved my idle issue, however I cleared the code and it came back after about 80 miles of driving, I thought it was fixed but after 80 miles it came back lol. So I know I still got a performance issue and still some flucation when driving and below 2k rpm. so think its still the IAC or the position of the TPS sensor, I think it will need to be reset. so ima try that. I may also buy a new IAC.

Jun 3, 2016 - 4:30 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1082444 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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K new gaskets came in today and will be installing these today, hopefully this will fix my issue and resolve me check engine light and have everything run normally and my gas mileage will go back up. I will keep everyone updated on this issue. I am wanting to turn this and eventually get around 200 to 250hp, pretty far fetched but before I do any more performance mods or even think about going turbo I want to make sure the motor is operating just fine and normal before adding performance parts to it and having it act all weird and possibly cause more issues. Just trying to get a good base to work with before adding on.

May 26, 2016 - 11:34 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1082143 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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QUOTE (Smaay @ May 25, 2016 - 7:23 PM) *
do not use RTV, get a replacement gasket and use proper torque


Thanks you guys! I will not use RTV, had no idea it was gonna be a bad idea, its all good we are all here to help and you guys just educated me, thank you! I wasnt able to get these gaskets at my local autozone so thats why I was just gonna use RTV. But instead ima get them here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Thr...m9B&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Thr...w0-&vxp=mtr

I'm going to replace both gaskets, might as well if I'm replacing the IAC valve with the other one I have.

May 25, 2016 - 11:58 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1082091 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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QUOTE (Box @ May 19, 2016 - 8:32 PM) *
It won't run at its full potential with a vacuum leak, it can make a world of difference if the leak is bad enough.


Thanks!! ok so heres the update... Cleaned the IAC valve without removing the IAC valve and by spraying carb cleaner into the port on the bottom of the inside of the throttle body, I just removed the sensor part that is held on by a few screws, also had to take off the throttle bracket and then I was able to have access to the screws for the IAC valve then as I sprayed carb cleaner in the throttle body port I was moving the IAC valve back and forth, and after cleaning it, it did make a difference but I dont think the valve is able to open quite all the way, so I will be replacing it with the other IAC valve I have (which feels easier to move than the other IAC valve which is why I think the one thats on there isnt able to open all the way). Im pretty sure the problem will go away completely then.

As far as the lean condition is concerned I took a fog machine I had and hoked it up to the vacuum line from the brake booster and fogged out the intake system and found smoke coming out by the back of the throttle body, so when I replace the IAC valve I will be adding RTV gasket maker to the back of the throttle body gasket, this should seal it. I will also use RTV gasket maker on the IAC valve to make sure there are no leaks there either. This should eliminate all of my problems. I will post back with any updated I have.

May 19, 2016 - 10:54 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081883 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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QUOTE (Box @ May 18, 2016 - 1:48 PM) *
I'd check around the intake manifold, throttle body, and injectors as those can sometimes start leaking. Another thought is there's an A/C idle up circuit that has a solenoid that induces vacuum to raise the idle, so if it's stuck open and your A/C is off that could cause a higher than normal idle.


Thanks! Messed with the throttle position sensor a little and found it not to be an issue, so maybe there is a vacuum leak somewhere, ima try and look for one today after work. I'll keep everyone updated on what I find.

And just out of curiosity will a vacumm leak and a lean condition make the car loose power? cause this car doesnt have much power compared to the other celica ST I drove. I know these cars arent fast but I know mine itsnt up to par of a stock one lol.

May 18, 2016 - 11:54 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081836 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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QUOTE (Box @ May 17, 2016 - 1:19 PM) *
With the TPS you need to bridge TE1 and E1 before adjusting to whatever resistance is specified by the book I believe, I want to say the AutoZone online manual section might have the needed information. Any vacuum leaks could cause high idle as well.


Hmm, ok so cleaned out the IAC and it moves freely, and it did even before I started cleaning it, so I dont think that was the issue, however I did replace the IAC sensor with the one off the other celica and it doesn't seem to hesitate as much now, now it will do it a few times then level out then 20 seconds later hesitate a few more times and then level out again. So maybe both these sensors are bad and just need to be replaced, and I think THAT should fix my idle fluctuation, which before I go throwing money at the car I will try to test resistance and such like what you stated then if its out of spec (with TE1 and E1 terminals jumped) I will replace it with a new one.

I still have a high idle though, that part didn't seem to change at all, any suggestions on what could be causing that? I replaced ALL vacuum lines with new ones, cause the car sat for a while and wanted to make sure I didn't have a leak so I replaced them all. I still may have one and not know it, but I am not leaning towards that possibility.

May 17, 2016 - 12:54 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081782 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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QUOTE (Box @ May 17, 2016 - 12:50 PM) *
Have you cleaned the idle air control valve?


Hmm not sure how in depth I went with the cleaning but before I swapped the throttle body I took the throttle body off and sprayed everywhere with throttle body cleaner, Not sure If I ever took off the IAC which I think is at the bottom of the throttle body if im correct (pretty sure I did, or at least I thought I did). And then I swapped out the throttle body later with a different one with a different IAC and still had the same result. Although I dont know how detailed I need to be when cleaning the IAC, maybe I should take it off from the throttle body and give it a good cleaning again, couldn't hurt I imagine. Thank you, ill give that a try.

May 17, 2016 - 11:35 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081766 · Replies: 20 · Views: 5,136
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Hi everyone my 94 celica ST has a idle fluctuation when im in gear and have the fans on. when the fans go off i idle at about 1k. normal idle in park with no fans or accessories on is about 1.5k which I know is a issue, I replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires, o2 sensor, throttle body and TPS from another celica but I dont think I aligned the TPS correctly? Do you think this may the cause? If so does anyone know how to properly re adjust the TPS sensor onto the throttle body?

https://youtu.be/mmk4e4pkoo8

Im also getting a code 25 which says "The air/fuel ratio feedback compensation vlave or additive control valve continues at the upper (lean) or lower (rich) limit for a certain period of time." And noticing this I had another set of fuel injectors that was off my old celica which ran just fine and put those on so I dont think its the injectors. Any help is appreciated.

Apr 30, 2016 - 1:49 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081318 · Replies: 2 · Views: 839
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QUOTE (Bitter @ Apr 30, 2016 - 2:31 PM) *
Timing may be off a tooth on the timing belt, double check that. I had that header on my 7A a long time ago and I had nothing but improved performance.


Ok great thank you! Glad to hear that it doesnt affect performance in a negative way! I'll check the timing.

Apr 30, 2016 - 1:20 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1081316 · Replies: 2 · Views: 839
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Hey guys I bought a cheap header off of ebay and its the aftermarket ones like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-RACING-H...HAo&vxp=mtr , the reason why I ask is cause I redid the motor and bought a ton of new parts but now I have performance issue, I have really bad power till i hit 3.5-4k rpm which is really not ideal. and im thinking maybe its cause the header has the o2 sensor is only using air fuel ration from 2 cylinders instead of all 4 cylinders? does anyone have information on this? sorry guys im just trying to narrow down things is all, i'd like to get down to the bottom of my performance issue. im only getting 22mpg.

Jul 9, 2015 - 1:13 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1071565 · Replies: 23 · Views: 4,904
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QUOTE (Box @ Jul 9, 2015 - 12:25 PM) *
With the manual it wasn't so bad, flat out it'd hit 60 in 10 secs or less. The only time I'd get onto it was on the interstate entrance ramp or if I happened to pull out in front of someone entering the highway. Otherwise I'd take it to 3,000 and go to the next gear. Usually I'd go from third to fifth as well.


Wow. Im sure this idle thing is causing quite a bit of performance loss cause like I stated earlier it doesn't have any pep till it hits like 4k rpm. So Hopefully after this gets resolved it will be a little bit quicker and that my gas mileage will return to normal.

Oh by the way sorry to not keep everyone updated but I took off the valve cover to replace the broken PCV valve and like an idiot im always messing with crap and try to do weird things so now that I got the PCV valve out ima try and paint the valve cover :-P lol. The last picture was done in Photoshop I was messing around with designs and this is what I think I will try to attempt to paint.






Jul 9, 2015 - 10:29 AM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1071560 · Replies: 23 · Views: 4,904
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QUOTE (Box @ Jul 7, 2015 - 8:11 PM) *
I also drive like an old man. If you're always flooring it and bouncing off redline between gears that's not doing you any favours.


Right. :-), which is hard to do in my celica st unless you want people honking at you to get the hell going lol :-P

Jul 7, 2015 - 6:23 PM Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #1071502 · Replies: 23 · Views: 4,904
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QUOTE (Box @ Jul 7, 2015 - 7:06 PM) *
No telling how long the junkyard motor was sitting either. I got 36-40 out of mine but it was the 5-speed and saw constant 45-55 mph use.


Wow, thats amazing mileage. I hope to get somewhat close to that one day lol.

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