6G Celicas Forums

Cheers, thats all I needed to know

Dan

Hi guys,

I've seen these spoilers on eBay and I'm sure I've heard that they fit the celica hatchback....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...ADME:L:RTQ:UK:1

Does anyone have one of these or know if it does actually fit properly or not?

Cheers,

Dan

If I bought and fitted and spoiler with built in brake light where could I wire it in? (preferably without tappin the existing brake lights)

Dan

Nicely done!!

I intend to mount switches on the blanks too but have been worried about breaking them althought they are easy enough to replace. How do you manage to fit them in without completely destroying the plastic bits??

Dan

I have an infinity 12" and would definitely recommend them, nice crisp & deep sound (would be even better if I had a decent amp to push it!!)

D

power caps store charge close to the amplifier so that if you wanna crank it up then the amp doesn't struggle to draw power. basically it helps the bass tight but it also stops your headlights from dimming, a side effect of having a powerful system. some people think they're a waste of time but i cerainly think they help, other than that they just look cool.

Dan

That is gonna look sweet, great work! Can't wait to see it with gauges installed!

Dan

Yeh, good plans, I went for a setup between my towers too cos it leaves plenty of room and can keep the spare wheel. But, even if you can work wonders with fibre glass I think you'll struggle to get the correct box volume in that space even with a sealed enclosure. I recommend using WinISD Beta to help calculate the volume required for your box and how the dimensions will affect their performance. I did some calcs to see if I could get another sub in my setup but found it pretty much impossible without using the whole trunk.

Good luck anyways,

Dan

Maybe. Recently I also noticed a smaller black plastic unit with some kind of adjustable gauge on it, any idea what that is? It was right under the console under the coin tray thing. I'm sure its only been there since I had the garage replace my ecu.

Dan

I'm pretty sure mine is in under the centre console in front of all the shifter gear, kinda underneath the climate control but mounted to the chassis not the dash. Its a smallish metal box about the size of a tabacco tin. At least I think that is the alarm unit!

Dan

the bonnet and front bumper are different on the gt4 than st to allow for the bigger engine. If you fitted a gt4 hood on an st you're left with a gap about an inch thick.

Maybe this of use, maybe not! Good luck either way!

Dan

ah man! don't be scaring me like that! Ordered some dot3 so we'll just have to wait and see if it needs topping up again in the future, sure hope not, brakes seem fine at the mo.

Cheers 4 the advice,

Dan

Hi guys,

My warning light keeps flashing up so had a look and the brake fluid is sitting on minimum. The store only had dot4 but said that would be fine, my only worry is that it said not to use with silicon based fluids and the lid on mine says dextron dot3 only. Should I be alright if I go with the dot4? You guys are the nearest thing I have to a manual!

Cheers,

Dan

Hi Rogue,

I've changed one of the pics in my profile to give a better view, dunno how to put pics in my posts yet.

Cheers,

Dan

Hiya,

Volume is just under 35.4 litres, 35,380cm^3 last calculations.

Spare wheel makes the boot real hard to work with but this design leaves loads of space.

Dan

I've now completed my third trunk install and am very happy with the results. This time i've compacted it all into one small unit and have used a 4awg power supply with proper distribution blocks and terminals. The box is sealed and is the perfect volume for the sub thanks to WinISD and sounds awesome, it keeps bass real tight but powerful. I managed to squeeze the cd changer in the space round the back with all the other messy stuff too. I'm planning on getting some blue cathodes on the unit to match the rest in my car. The unit fits pretty snug between the seats and the spare wheel and just touches the parcel shelf at the top, if anyone wants dimensions then let me know.

Hope you like it,

Dan

Yeah, got it back yesterday, all sorted now .

Cost me £375 including parts and labour but came with two spanking new remotes whereas I only had one before and always intended to buy a second. All work and parts covered under gaurantee now for extra piece of mind.

Can get back on with building my new install now without worrying about setting the alarm off if I pop the hood or trunk!

Cheers again man.

Dan

I am selling my custom boot install (see profile pic) as I am currently building a newer smaller one as much of the install is now redundant as I use my mp3 player instead of the cd changer.

It is only the wooden units I am selling not the sub/amp/cap/changer and they would obviously have to be collected. The setup could easily be modified to accommodate a different amp and cd changer although the volume of the box is fixed at 35,400cm^3 (ideal for a sealed 12"). The sub box is reinforced with braces and the whole assembly is made of 15mm MDF and covered in thick black accoustic carpet. I am prepared to give the amp away for nothing with it since it plays up from time to time and I now use a different amp.

I will consider any offers as I don't just wanna chuck it away since a lot of materials and hard work went into designing it and it is a great and unique setup if you have a celica hatchback.

I live in Surrey in the UK and can be contacted by personal message or by email through this site. Please feel free to ask any questions about it.

Regards,

Dan

I kept my spare wheel so I had to work around it which makes life real awkward, see my profile for the pic of how it ended up though.

I'm building a new one at the as I'm ditching the cd changer for my mp3 player and I have a better amp so both the side units are a waste of space. Also got my eye on a matching sub on ebay so I could go with dual subs, but then I'd need an even bigger amp! Will put pics on my profile when its done.

Dan

Cheers Snadman, thats a very kind offer. Toyota are replacing my ECU though so I think I'm just gonna leave it to them as the whole ordeal has stressed me out enough as it is. Sounds like a drastic solution but I'm happy as long as it doesn't play up again!

Thanks again,

Dan

My alarm has been playing up lately too, the alarm (and central locking) just won't respond to the remote. I've taken it to the garage twice now and they proposed replacing the ECU as they can't seem to find any other faults! I find it strange that something could just go so wrong with the ECU and cost so much to sort out!! From what I gather the alarm brain is tied into the ECU and this is located in different places from car to car to make it harder for thieves to disengage (at least thats what toyota are telling me).

Dan

Right! Now I'm getting annoyed

Having taken the car to the toyota garage they reallised it's a problem with the alarm, duh! £40 to tell me that and I'm looking at another £250 to get them to play with the ECU and find the problem!! I asked around about disengaging the standard alarm and fitting an after-market product as it probably won't cost much more, sadly none of the shops will touch it. And just to make my life hell, when toyota were playing around with it they've somehow re-engaged the siren so now it goes off every time I open the door!!!

I guess I'm out of options unless anyone has any suggestions which won't cost the world!!?

Dan

Cheers for the suggestions guys, having looked under the dash I can't really see what the hell is going on so I'm just gonna take it to the Toyota dealership to sort out.

Thanks,

Dan

Hi all,

This wknd my celica decided to give me major grief with the alarm and central locking. I went to open the car and found that the remote would not deactivate the alarm or unlock the car

This has happened before and I can normally get round it by unlocking the trunk with the key (the doors don't respond to the key whilst dead-locked) which sets off the alarm but stops after shutting the trunk. This whole embarrassing process somehow seems to get the car to respond to the remote and is normally the end of the matter.

However, this time my luck was out, I could not get the alarm to deactivate whatsoever! I could get in the car and drive it as the alarm shuts off pretty quick if the doors are all shut, but then it goes off again as soon as you get out. I went through this ordeal about three or four times and then faced a new problem. The alarm is no longer triggered by opening the car but the alarm dash LED continually flashes whether I'm in the car or not and the alarm still won't respond to the remote!! I now have to lock the car with the key and am constantly worried that the alarm will go off any second!

I believe the alarm is standard and I replaced the remote battery last year and the remote LED still flashes bright red when I try to use it so I don't think its a problem with the remote. Whilst trying to deactivate the alarm though I held the remote button down for about 5 seconds and this makes the remote LED flash, this supposedly resets the code although it never seemed to work before and may have made things worse for me.

Does anyone have any experience of this? I guess I'll have to get the dealership to look into it unless there is a quick fix?

Sorry for the long post but I know details are important.

Cheers in advanced for any information!

Dan T

Hi guys,

I've seen some late style light clusters with the clear indicators for sale over here in the UK but am unsure whether they will hook straight up with my European connectors etc, does anyone know whether I'd get any problems? I gather that there is no fog light on the import clusters but I never use my rear fogs anyway.

Cheers in advance for any comments...

D