6G Celicas Forums

Did you move?

Hey, yea I am back and then left again Have too much **** I g2g at school and the rest is spent and work .
Kerosene: Like I probably mentioned before, they were deisgned to work with Automatic Celica and wont interfere with the brake pedal, the kick is about 1" from the pedal. But don't even think of using this with manual cuz you just wont be able to put it in cuz of the clutch pedal. Let me clarify the braket's thing, what I ment by that is either velcro (that's what I used) or you can mount em with a metal piece from Lowes or HomeDepot (prolly will run you like 5-7" for the strap mount) its a rectangular piece with holes in it. What you do is you bent it the way you want with plyers and mount one side to the kick and other to your cars body (chassis). Thats about it, any more questions (please email to Niskyspy@gmail.com) thank you...

You do not want qlogic kick's they make em out of really cheap thin plastic so u'll have to spend a lot of time and money to make em solid + you will never get anywhere close to a custom kick in sound.

I'll find some old pics when there were still in the car and then take a bunch of pics of them out. I'll either post em today night or tomorrow morning.

These kicks are made so that woofers 6 1/2" are pointed at the driver ears to get the best stage. Oh and dont even think of keeping the dead pedal When I was making em I got a lot of help from the owner of my local audio shop, he won 1st place in IASCA SQ so he really knows what he is doing.

Like topic says I am selling custom kick panels for 6 1/2". I build em last summer for a competition and won 1st in SLAP NY championship last summer. I spent $120 in fiberglass and resin to make the damn things and about 50 hours of work . But now I am out of caraudio scene so I have no need for these things. They will only fit automatic tranny and you will have to mount them with custom brakets. I am not trying to make any money on em so I am giving em for cheap $50+shipping gets both of em. If you dont think this is cheap stop by a local audio shop and they will quote you about $500 to build em. Will only ship to 48 continental USA shipping will be kinda high cuz these sucers are heavy (8 layers of fiberglass per kick pannel).


HERE are some more pics that I took with my cell when the kick's were in the car
(I used MbQuart 6 1/2 premiums in the kicks and mounted tweets up on the door all speakers were facing the driver ears for best sound stage.





To contact me email to Niskyspy@gmail.com

Thanks for the link but I still dont know the offset for the wheels. This really, really sux. Does any one know where can I find offset for steel wheels?
I think I'll just have to buy me some 15-16" rims and be done with this crap

Thanks but NJ is kinda far away. I am located at Upstate NY.
Too bad I got no good info from this thread.
Any info will be good, I am really tired of my steering wheel shaking.
PLZ PLZ PLZ

Eh, my steel rim is bent and thus the reason of why my steering wheel shakes like a lil b1*ch. I am looking for a steel rim for my car 95 Celica ST. I know that Dodge Neon has 5-100 lug pattern but what other wheels would fit?
Thank you

Always wanted to get me one of them ass heaters . Keep us uptdated on how it function's. When u done flipping them could u tell us how long it takes for them to heat up to a point where u actually can warm up from the heat.
Upstate NY is friggin cold

Awsome, and please replace that Alipine with something more powerful MBQuart . Its lookng good, eh that reminds me how much time I spend doing all the stuff you are doing now. Oh and for the kick's please get a good resperator (spend at least $40) cuz that thing will get you really high when u start doing the first layer (the in car one, to get the shape).

I am not responsible if anything happens with your car if you install this security system in your car.


1) Relay
2) Male plug (just choose the one u like but with at least 6 pin's)
3) Female plug (that would work with the male plug)
4) [url=http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783&cp=&pg=2&origkw=fuse&kw=fuse&parentPage=search]Fuse
holder[/url]
5) Some 10 gauge wire
6) Some kind of protection for the wire (small diameter flex tube might do the trick, to protect your wires from being spliced)



PIN1 +12V going from the battery or any constant +12V
PIN2 Ground
PIN3 A wire going to RELAY
PIN4 Ground
PIN5 Ground
Wires: All the wires should be the same color (black) so that theif wouldn't know the difference.
Ground: It would be really good if the 3 ground wires would go to the different ground point in your car, so that theif wouldn't know where that wire really goes.

Well like u see, the use of the relay will make sure that the only thing that can get burned is ur relay not the fuel pump. This relay is rated to 30Amp's which I think is more then enough for a fuel pump (check me I might be wrong).

So here's how it works:
1) When the plug is in (the right way) PIN 1 and PIN3 allow a flow of current to the relay.
2) When relay gets 12V of current it closes the connection on the fuel pump wire and pump gets voltage.


What thief sees is a plug with lets say 5 pins in it. So if the thief connects any of two wires the wrong way for example PIN1(+12V) to
PIN2(GROUND) the fuse would blows and the relay will not engage until it gets 12V current running through it, which can only be done by replacing the fuse. Another good thing about this setup is that you can hide your relay far in your dash in a place where the thief will never get to it.

IF u are going for clarity (like SoundQuality car) then go with JL 12" W6v2 if u are going just for base then go for any reliable company, there is a bunch of SPL subs out there that are good.

Go and buy an 4ch amp for ur speakers. That will fix the problem the right way!!!

Weird, its either a ****ty cap, or ur something is discharging your battery and your cap see's the voltge drop.

Doesn't have to be too hot, just do it during summer when its like 90 outside and you car was baking in the sun for bout 4 hours. It will stick and wont ever want to come off . I put my dynomat in the doors and in rear quater pannels. Which made it way more queiter.

hm, I had this same question a while back. The only thing we figured out in that post that it was either an amp connection or power for CD-player.

You could of ran your neons from you power wire that goes to ur amp, by running a relay with your blue(amp turn of wire) so that your neons would turn on only when your system is on. This would be much easier and use way less wires + less work

Ok, eh I didnt read through the whole post so if I am just repeating what people said before then sorry:
1) There is no turn on wire
2) It shouldn't stay on.

Ok I'll do a lil explanation for ya'll here .
Cap stop's charging, discharging after a couple of minutes. It charges up and turns off. To test this you will have to turn off your car close all the doors turn off all the lights and sit there starting at your capacitor. The reason it seems like the cap doesnt turn off is becaues when lets say you open your trunk to look at it, your roof light turns on, or if you have an alarm the alarm uses electircity to flash the car's lights, open the doors or beep. In all of these cases power from battery is being taken, the cap see's it and because discharge time on capacitor is way faster then battery it uses the charge of capacitor. And since there is a change in voltage at the capacitor it thinks that you are playing you system and that is the reason why its led, volt gauge turns on. If I confused anyone sorry!!!

To upload pics:
1)Go to www.photobucket.com and register, (its free)
2)Upload your pics
3)When they are done uploading u'll see em on the screen
4)Select the pics that you want in ur post (using check marks)
5)At the bottom of the screen there is a button, something like HTML code, press it
6)Then it will load a page with bunch of windows and links to your pictures in different style
7)Copy the text that is for forum's/boards
8)Paste it into ur reply and u'll have your pictures posted.

That is it!!!

Here are the pics that nightrider sent me of his 2nd alternator!!!
Great job dude, 100 cudos for u

Check them again!!!
If u didnt smell any burnt wires it will be a fuse 80%.

Hello, well yesterday I checked out my tires and found out that I need two new tires. Front right is bold on one side because of alighment problem (which I fixed about 4 month ago but didn't bother changing the tires because it was summer), front left has rubber prolly about 1" by 1" coming off of side wall (prolly ran over a curbe or something. So if I lift it up I can see the fibers inside the tire, but the tire is not diflating and I didnt get a bubble yet. So here are my choises. Go and replace my fronts with same all-weather tires which will prolly cost around $100 with instalation. Or put on Cooper Weather-Master S/T 2 winter tires because I have all 4 pretty much brand new sittin in my basment. The only thing I am confused about is, if its ok to put winter tires on right now? I mean its not winter yet but it is getting kinda colder.

Here's link to winter tires that I have Cooper winter tires

Thank you

Here's the thing. The blue wire is called remote turn on.
So head units like Eclipse/Pioneer/Panasonic/Alipne and couple more brands actually have amplifier remote turn on wire coming from wiring harness of the HU. Some dont, so if ur HU doesnt have that you can always hook it up to your power antenna which will either be blue or blue with white stripe.

its 28th still dont see any pics
Would u mind explaining why you stll have two caps, if u are running 14.4V at any load?

Sorry, I dont like miatas (good cars though, handle really good but just not my taste)

Sorry, but I won't believe you until I see the pics of 2nd alternator installed!!! And if u did do it, I give you mad props for actually getting it to work.
I have a question for you now, how did u wire up the 2nd alternator to your power system? Do u use one for ur car and one just for your system or what?

Here's a couple of .02 cents from me about what you did.
1) Get rid of them stupid caps! All they are doing is limiting your system, caps are only good for the first couple of seconds, after that its just a waist and it just kills your system performance.
2) Why did u put in 2nd alternator??? There is no need for that especially with 1000Watt RMS amp. All you needed to do is just get kenetic battery (fast chargin - dischargin time battery which costs $200) I've seen them work. It hold up 13.5-14V for bout 5-8sec and this is more then enought for a big bass hit or 5-8sec of 65Hz tone burst (which is more then enough because u only supose to hold it for 2-4sec on the SPL meter) So you just waited your time and money on that 2nd alternator and 2nd battery, unless you are planning on going full out SPL and getting 3000-5000Watt RMS AMP. And for ur info, amps are rated at 14.4V. On average a good amp lets use JBL BP1200.1 as an example at full power which is 1000Watt RMS it takes 148amps, your stock ALT=70-75AMP's -ENGINE - HU&someother**** =60AMPS. Kinetic fast reacharging battery will get the AMPS up to what JBL1200.1 needs!!! (I've actually seen it done)

PS: I am not sure u actually know what you are talking about, because you didn't really show any knowlage (but at least u do know the basic things about SPL).

PLEASE POST PICS OF UR SETUP


Try not getting too much into arguments until we see some pics . And yes a good stock ALT and good battery like Kinetic (fast charge/discharge rate) with perform as good as 2nd alternator up to a point. The only pro's of 2nd alternator with 1000Watt rms amp is that he can run 65Hz tone burst until his eardrums pop