6G Celicas Forums

Ordered some rear sway bar bushings to see if that fixes it. Heard it's a common issue and a cheap fix. All struts have been replaced but don't think the mounts were. Rear rattle was there before new struts.

My '95 GT convertible 143,000. An annoying rattle from the back, seems more prominent at slower speeds. It's been going on a few years now. Can't find anything loose in the trunk or spare area.

In the front the suspensions squeaky sometimes, especially when the wheel is turned all the way and it's cold.

New struts and sway bar end links installed.

I have a 1995 Convertible and just replaced the rear window mounting plates. My drivers rear window pretty much just fell down and the other side is barely working. The nylon roller bushing which keep the window in the tracks break after many years. You can't just replace those bushings, you have to replace the entire plate they and the window glass are mounted to. Luckily the parts are still available from Toyota! I paid about $52 /each from my local toyota dealer. I was able to replace the window plate without removing seats or much anything else from the interior.

Difficulty level : 7 out of 10 - Mainly for the patience, tools and finger dexterity required

Tools I Needed:

Phillips Screwdriver
10 mm open end wrench
Vise grip pliers
Dremel tool with metal cutting blade
Magnet stick to pick up dropped parts LOL
Flashlight to see dropped parts
Big 90 degree needle nose pliers (or spanner wrench - specialty tool)
Lithium Grease
Penetrating oil

1. Put the top down.

2. Remove the top plastic cover next to the window and drop it out of the way (2 phillips screws)

3. Slightly pull the lower side plastic interior panel into the car just off the door opening. Enough to get to the Window parts.

4. Facing into the car from outside looking down. There are two window stops with rubber bumpers on either side of the window that need to be out of the way to get window out and back in. Note their positions, maybe scratch lines. The one on the right needs to come all the way out, the bolt clip will stay in. The one on the left I was able to loosen enough to get it out of the way without removing it. (10 mm bolts)

5. The first fun (heh) part. Between rear and center of window is where the regulator is attached to the plate with rear roller.
I tried to loosen the 10 mm friction nut but the whole shaft would just spin. Couldn't get a good grip on the shaft with needle nose pliers. I had to get my Dremel tool with the metal cutting blade and carefully slice the nylon roller in places until I could get it off of the shaft. Then I was able to get my vise grips on the shaft to hold it while I loosened the 10mm friction nut. There are also 2 small washers. You'll probably drop them so you need the telescoping magnet.

6. Pull the window out.

7. The washer nuts that hold the glass. Disks with two oval holes. The specialty tool is called a spanner wrench, I used a pair of big 90 degree needle nose pliers. I sprayed the nuts with penetrating oil, waited a few minutes. It's a bit of a trick to get the right amount of downward pressure and torque to turn them.

8. Mount glass to new plate. I was able to order new plastic window mounting washers but the ones that came out looked re-useable. Put it back together the way it came off.

9. Get some fresh grease on the window tracks. I used a 3 foot piece of trim wood and tried to slop some into the tracks.

10. Put the window in, Takes some finagleing to angle it in and get the rollers in the tracks. Getting the regulator arm through proper bolt is fun too but once it's on it will hold the window up and in place while you get to the hardest part.

11. Putting the regulator washers and nut on. I carefully lowered the window an inch or two where my fingers could just barely reach the bolt. A little sticky grease on my finlgers, a couple drops and magnet pick ups later they were on. I have big hands and fingers so getting the nut on and starting to thread was just barely possible. Have patience, a flashlight and that magnet pole on hand or this will be impossible.

12. Lower window and put the stops back in where they used to be.

13. Test up and down, match with front window and with top up and down. Mine lined up just the same.

14. Put the rest back together and you're done.

I have a 1995 Convertible and just replaced the rear window mounting plates. My drivers rear window pretty much just fell down and the other side is barely working. The nylon roller bushing which keep the window in the tracks break after many years. You can't just replace those bushings, you have to replace the entire plate they and the window glass are mounted to. Luckily the parts are still available from Toyota! I paid about $52 /each from my local toyota dealer. I was able to replace the window plate without removing seats or much anything else from the interior.

Difficulty level : 7 out of 10 - Mainly for the patience, tools and finger dexterity required

Tools I Needed:

Phillips Screwdriver
10 mm open end wrench
Vise grip pliers
Dremel tool with metal cutting blade
Magnet stick to pick up dropped parts LOL
Flashlight to see dropped parts
Big 90 degree needle nose pliers (or spanner wrench - specialty tool)
Lithium Grease
Penetrating oil

1. Put the top down.

2. Remove the top plastic cover next to the window and drop it out of the way (2 phillips screws)

3. Slightly pull the lower side plastic interior panel into the car just off the door opening. Enough to get to the Window parts.

4. Facing into the car from outside looking down. There are two window stops with rubber bumpers on either side of the window that need to be out of the way to get window out and back in. Note their positions, maybe scratch lines. The one on the right needs to come all the way out, the bolt clip will stay in. The one on the left I was able to loosen enough to get it out of the way without removing it. (10 mm bolts)

5. The first fun (heh) part. Between rear and center of window is where the regulator is attached to the plate with rear roller.
I tried to loosen the 10 mm friction nut but the whole shaft would just spin. Couldn't get a good grip on the shaft with needle nose pliers. I had to get my Dremel tool with the metal cutting blade and carefully slice the nylon roller in places until I could get it off of the shaft. Then I was able to get my vise grips on the shaft to hold it while I loosened the 10mm friction nut. There are also 2 small washers. You'll probably drop them so you need the telescoping magnet.

6. Pull the window out.

7. The washer nuts that hold the glass. Disks with two oval holes. The specialty tool is called a spanner wrench, I used a pair of big 90 degree needle nose pliers. I sprayed the nuts with penetrating oil, waited a few minutes. It's a bit of a trick to get the right amount of downward pressure and torque to turn them.

8. Mount glass to new plate. I was able to order new plastic window mounting washers but the ones that came out looked re-useable. Put it back together the way it came off.

9. Get some fresh grease on the window tracks. I used a 3 foot piece of trim wood and tried to slop some into the tracks.

10. Put the window in, Takes some finagleing to angle it in and get the rollers in the tracks. Getting the regulator arm through proper bolt is fun too but once it's on it will hold the window up and in place while you get to the hardest part.

11. Putting the regulator washers and nut on. I carefully lowered the window an inch or two where my fingers could just barely reach the bolt. A little sticky grease on my finlgers, a couple drops and magnet pick ups later they were on. I have big hands and fingers so getting the nut on and starting to thread was just barely possible. Have patience, a flashlight and that magnet pole on hand or this will be impossible.

12. Lower window and put the stops back in where they used to be.

13. Test up and down, match with front window and with top up and down. Mine lined up just the same.

14. Put the rest back together and you're done.