6G Celicas Forums

just pulled the A/C single pressure switch plug and ran a wire between terminals 2 and 3 on there, turned the key to ACC, and no fans. So probably that switch is stuck in the open position, so that's the one I should try to replace.

I gotcha. A frayed cable binding in a roller (like I had) could still explain that. I'd still think to go for the whole assembly. That way, when you take the door interior panel off you can swap the whole assembly in and not have to worry about transplanting the motor. You'll still save money, probably a bunch, by doing it yourself.

Hypothetically, if the motor is running reliably.

If I understand you: when you try to summon its power it responds, but only for 1.5 inches each way. If that's the case, then I would guess the motor is ok. Nippon Denso = quality.

...but there are almost always complications...
The cable is wrapped around a wheel on the motor, and that could be tricky to sort out on the new one. Perhaps if you video the old one's disassembly, it could be reasonable to reassemble everything properly.

...and...
Your time, as a creative problem solver, is valuable.

...So...
I'd go ahead and get the whole assembly if you can swing the fiscal burden. Then you can separate the old one and have a spare denso motor ready to go if that part craps out. Also it's possible that you have a different problem than I did, In which case maybe it's more internal than mine was to sort out.



ebay celica window regulator
Good hunting!

[edit] to clean up spelling, punctuation and try make things more clear.

Also, thanks Bitter for the Frost King FV516 tip. Gotta try that out.

Had a similar problem recently.
For me the driver side would only come down about 4 inches before stopping.

The cable had gotten frayed and was a big tangle, when the roller hit the tangled part of the cable it would stop. Bought a new window regulator with motor on ebay for 100usd. Installed it with a friend (who was once a pro auto mechanic) took an hour or two. Then bought him dinner.

Some difficulties we encountered:
* the push rivets that secure the inside panel to the door, push the center inward, then pry the outer part out (we broke 2 or 3 of them before realizing)
* the big plastic film moisture barrier, it was stuck in with some kind of gasket sealer for me. Lamely pushed it back into position afterwards.
* with a big tangled cable binding up window operation we were less able to get the window into a position where it's easy to remove the bolts that hold it in. If you're having the same problem you might need to contort your hand in order to feel around inside there.

Here's a link that helped us out.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=35218

edit: spelling

I've noticed my radiator cooling fans will come on as soon as I get my Key to ACC.
Research so far suggests that it could be the fan switch or the fan relay.

Took the relay out and it makes a click sound on 12v power from a battery; but when it's in a clicked state, and I hook up the ohmmeter to the other 2 poles, it shows no connection. So my relay is bad and I got another one on order from ebay.
The fans though, are still running when the key goes to ACC even with the relay unplugged sitting on the table.

Is this normal in the case of a failed relay? Would the car's electrical system handle it that gracefully when a relay fails?


edit: Just realized I maybe should have posted this in the Electrical Forum, always feel like that is for interior I guess. Mods, feel free to move this post if It should be there instead.

edit2: Doh! Just learned that this relay is normally closed (Iguess how it does graceful failure), and tested it *without* the 12v and it works. So thinking it's the radiator fan switch stuck in the on position. Oh well, at least I only spent 6.50 on the replacement relay.

edit3: Ok, upon looking at it all again, the number 1 fan is off when its relay is pulled. So at least it no longer appears the relays have been bypassed.
============================
Edit 4: Got the fan switch disconnected. The Ohmmeter shows continuity on a cold engine. Which tells me that the fan switch, at least at low temperatures, is doing what it's supposed to do. Not quite sure what to test next.

There is a possibility that the fan switch has been bypassed. Can anyone else tell me if their fans come on when the key is in the ACC position with a cold engine? Could be some kind of feature of the ECU (to reveal a fan fault before it becomes fatal perhaps) and I'm just chasing my tail.

Thanks

I've had flickering LEDs before. I think it was with a 5-LED matrix. sometimes's there are just manufacturing defects in the LED fabrication, the more complex the fabrication, the more chance of defect. I'd just replace that one and see if that fixes you up.

worst one i had was an LED cook itself in my gauge-cluster, transformed into an SED (smoke emitting diode), _bad_ smell, 1/3 of the cluster goes dim. cluster was perfectly fine, replaced LED. all good.

IANAL, but i think legally, in the united states, you're not allowed. different states (and even locations within states sometimes) have different laws about what is required for an inspection though, so it may be something the authorities just don't care about in your area.

as far as physical capability goes. not really sure. in my understanding: its about the ecu you use because that is what the code readers talk to. so obd1 ecu means obd1 code reading.

in that last photo there is no power to the unit (which isn't in a car, just sitting on my desk).
it's just a single led (on a keychain) pointing into the diffuser at 90 degrees off normal.
i also got favorable results with a green laser pointer, which fans out even less than an led (i once heard they fan to 3 feet on the moon), further signifying that it's all about the angle that the beam hits.

that's great, where did you get them? was it a kit?

ok, just took another picture, same web page
http://sites.google.com/site/zimluuraprojects/car

this one is of a blue led (it was a higher power thc3 led from lsdiodes.com which has since ceased to be) that i modded into a keychain.
but this one with the led angled 90 degrees towards the diffuser. so i'm thinking now that it's entirely about the angle which that light beam hits the diffuser.

took a spare cc unit apart somewhat and got a really horribly blurry photo.
http://sites.google.com/site/zimluuraprojects/car

the circuit board is outlined in red, the diffuser in cyan, and the bulb in purple.

the diffuser is actually a litte off to the side of the centerline of the bulb. which, when it comes to leds it probably the culprit. the 2x smt might be better, if they are at slight angles they could disperse light sideways enough. but what you might be able to do is half-way take the led and resistor out of the 10mm neo wedge socket and tilt it (by bending the legs slightly) so that it faces a little more into the clear plastic diffuser. i did this back when i used a num74 led wired into a toyota 10mm wedge base (before autolumination even had neo-wedges) and i'd hazard a guess that the dash pic in my profile came from then.

other ideas: i think a 194 might be too tall to really get in there below the diffuser. but perhaps you could take the parabolic mirror from a cheap flashlight keychain and mount it up in there to dirrect more light toward the diffuser. maybe glue it to the diffuser.

[edit] spelling

i'd try the dual surface mount one first (at least the top one), yes it will be expensive, but it's probably worhtwhile considering all the work that goes into getting the cc unit out of (and back into) the car. i've always wondered how difficult it would be to drill out the holes for something larger like a 194...hmmm this might be a possibility.

wow man, what do the 3 leds look like? are they smt (surface mounts) or do they have regular lenses? perhaps inveterted lenses?

got an email back from chris at autolumination. he said he's tried to pack more leds on the neowedge but the size of the neck doesn't let him pull it off.
so i guess you're probably best off with the: SMT II Neo - Wedge for max brightness. but it also really sounds like you got some black paint back there or something as well.

wow. sorry i'm all over the place with the questions, but i've never heard of a celica not having cc illumination before, it esspecially doesn't make sense seeing as the ligths are in there?

does anything on the cc unit get illumination (the blue <-> red knob, the fan knob, the inside outside air button)?
do you think someone spray painted the backs of the buttons?

so you are talking about the back-lighting then, the 3x 10mm neo-wedge bulbs?
if those bulbs are on you should be seeing something at least. are you certain they're in the correct way and getting juice? a way to test might be to take the knobs off while the unit is in the car and it's night time.

if they are getting juice and are just not powerful enough you may want to try these guys

http://autolumination.com/74.htm
search for: SMT II Neo - Wedge LED Instrument Panel Bulbs
those look like the best bet at the moment. is that what's in the spree kit? i have the single smt neo wedge in there right now and they light up alright (not the best, but plainly visible) autolumination seems to frequently get new stuff in though, so i'm holding out for some kind of 5 smt before i pull it out again.

do you mean, the back-lighting didn't come through the buttons well? or the indicators of when a button is pushed isn't changed?

if it's the ambient back-lighting: there is a piece of clear plastic on the top row that should carry the glow to the buttons reasonably well. so perhaps the led is plugged in the wrong way around.
if it's the indicators under each button, then those are separate leds that need to be de-soldered (after you draw a diagram indicating the polarity) then resolder some 3mm leds into each one.

iirc, for mine it wasn't anything like a standard bulb. i took a num74 led, and pulled the led and resistor out of its housing. then i did the same for the bulb (breaking it). then i just sortof shoved it in there so the legs were making contact.

didn't do any soldering, but the connection has never faltered or flickered on me. as always when converting to led, flip the polarity if it doesn't light at first. i think the connector allows you to just flip it without reseating the led+resistors.

when i was a kid i was thinking "elise" or "z06", both cars offer lots of bang for the buck. now, i'd rather spend money on the celica.

i don't like the 458 or f40 as much as the 360 and f430. different

yeah those oem parts are pricey
when i got the car the trunk deck tray had been dogged and one of the clips broken off if. toyota price $315. i opted for small cut of steel bar and jbweld.
toyota cc unit lightbulb = $10/bulb (before you could get them at autolumination).
what is the price for the 8 speaker door panels again is it $600 per or was it $1000 per?

for what it's worth i also talked to tweak before the manual conv. but he didn't want to do the auto-manual swap. he lives really far away from me as well.

was also looking at this.
http://www.usinflationcalculator.com/
since this car was made there has been a 38% inflation change. these us$ don't seem to go very far nowadays.

njccmd2002: 2 different mechanics, the guy who estimated the engine swap for 7k did not recommend doing it, and he gave an estmation he was likely to get under, still it's way to much to be worth doing, he only offered it because i'd just spent so much on the manual conv. fwhen i got the manual conversion i was well over 2k on parts & shipping alone. i'm sure if i knew a toyota parts guy i'd have gotten some nice discounts but as it stands, i don't get oem parts cheaply. i haven't been able to find any inexpensive options around here for performance modifications. could be all about high rent in this area, the more rural shops i'm sure could do better. but i don't really want to be driving/towing several hours each way when/if something needs tinkering in the first few days. i probably have the tools to change the headgasket at the moment, but working outside here can really suck, still i might be able to pull it off.

soulshadow: pondered getting a c6 rolling chassis and dropping (while cutting to fit) a 6gc body on it. lots of custom work in that. if i learn to weld maybe. i do want to stick with the 6gc, it has become the car i want, and i don't expect to get my money (or anywhere close to it) in the event i sell it (which is unlikely). it's a car, it's a tool and a toy, not an investment. if i had the option of the f430 or the celica i'd take the f430, sell it quicky for very little and buy the celica again.

czwalga: want to do a 100% legal swap (so EGR & 99+ year), so i'm not allowed easy routes like the wonderful 3s-g* engines which, to my knowledge never had obd2. if i get the engine fixed & upgraded, how much would you charge for an awd conversion?

cool! that's more what i was hoping to hear!

mkernz22: on doing a swap in the driveway: a quote i've heard is "come to virginia, if you don't like the weather, stay a day", ontop of that my driveway is mostly crush_and_run at the moment, there are some paved parts, but even those are aged, sloped, and not very smooth (not sure about jackstands, but i don't think an engine crane would move well on it). and i don't even have a single car garage. and since i've never done something this serious before i think i'll at least need no time limits in a dry space. if i had some solid trust in my ability to bang out the job i might be looking into setting up a tent and enough pavers to move the crane around or renting a garage, but then there's utility accounts to set up and pay for too.

kurt95gt: i assume it would always be better to rebuild a 1mz before putting it in. but i'm also guessing that paying for a rebuild is really expensive. would you just get one a drop it in?

all: working on plans for the garage now, thinking something that could fit 4 cars but only used for 2 and allot of workshop space (so the current workshop can revert to a bedroom). it won't have central heat/ac, but i could maybe get a window unit and space heater. it'll be crazy expensive but it adds equity which when/if it's time to sell i should be able to recoup. hopefully it won't add to much to real estate tax and homeowners insurance.

if i planned on selling it someday i wouldn't have put much money into it. but so far i'm not really getting much creative problem solving here, just lots of people telling me i've been ripped off. and lots of people telling me to do it myself, which, at the moment, i can't.

[edit] sorry if that came off as pissy. i do appreciate the opinions. but it's mostly a commentary on my overpayment (again, i agree that it was allot of money), and the only real solution seems to be to build a garage and do it myself.

i agree it would be foolish to pay 7k for a 5s swap, i paid 7k for the car in 2005.

questions related to me not doing any of the work
1) what do people feel is a fair price for a manual conversion?
2) what sounds like a fair price for an engine rebuild?
3) what sounds like a fair price for an engine swap? assuming 2.2k for a 3yr warrantied engine?
4) does anyone know a mechanic in/near richmond va, who does good work at good prices?

looking into the garage option. that will need a fairly large addition on the house as well and will be _really_ expensive.