6G Celicas Forums

Dang, couldn't do it without both trailing sides. Thanks!

Were the rear control arms damaged in the accident? I need both driver and passenger sides, so long the adjustable screw isn't seized up. It's the long rods with an adjustable barrel that connect to the back of the hubs in the rear.

Still got them? And these are what adjust the rear toe, correct?

I'm at 333,000 miles! Woo! Today I had suspension failure. I've had the car for a while and pretty sure it was stock struts. I've been living on whindy, mountain gravel roads for 4 years now and only my suspension has taken a toll. I replaced the alternator and fuel pump (after failure) about 100,000 miles ago. And recently replaced drums and rotors (those lasted me around 5 years - those mountain roads!

Oh, my all aluminum radiator, that was in the car when I bought it, finally gave way. Luckily, I have a spare fiberglass one.

At around 290k, my car officially started smoking more than Snoop Dogg.

Something weird happened around 300k where the inside of both front wheels were gouged out and became difficult to balance. Thank you whoever invented 1000g wheel weights.

240k, I replaced the driver side CV axle. Then I realized the spring on the seal was compromised AFTER I replaced the CV axle. So, I had to disassemble, replace seal and reinstall at 11 pm in the parking lot of Trader Joe's.

About 10k ago, I replaced the valve cover gasket set. I suggest to anyone reading to do this BEFORE you see any oil seeping. Just ask yourself, "When was my valve cover last replaced?" If you don't know the answer to the question, go ahead and replace the sumbit. It was a pain to remove those dried out seals.

Overall, this car has been incredible! Great torque going up the mountain roads and doesn't lose traction on driveways that all the trucks around me need 4WD. Beautiful car and a wonder to own and drive.

I've always told everyone I'll drive this thing 'till the wheels fall off. Well, one wheel (almost) fell off. I'm putting it back on tomorrow and keeping on.

Today I.........busted a nut



Anyone have two front struts for sale?

Sí Box, algo esta malo con su carro. Talves el necesita nuevas bufias. Con mí carro obtengo 35 millas cada galón sin tratando!

Ha! Don't know where it's attributed on the east coast, but good to know - never visit Huntington beach.

Eh yo brah, necropost but got deets.

I got 46.5 mpg at my best. I've never been able to get it again, but I've gotten 45 mpg afterward. To get this I stayed at a constant 2600 rpm waaay over in the slow lane. There was also this stretch of highway with no stop lights, but a 55 mph speed limit - that's where I really milked the mpg.

With everyday highway driving (and some road), not trying to save any gas, I get around 35 mpg. My roof rack brought my highway mpg down a few notches

Is there any type of rhythm to the noise? If so, could be the wheel bearing. Usually it's a deep, consistent, rhythmic hum.

Hey! I'm looking for new wheels for my 6GC. The original BBS wheels have taken a beating after 300k+ miles. A couple are difficult to balance, so just planning ahead here. I don't need anything fancy - preferably, something stock looking. Maybe stock 15s off of a Camry or Corolla? Plus, manufacturers are pulling back on making 14" tires, so my tire replacement options are becoming limited each time I buy.

Thanks!

I'm missing all stickers...they fell off around 250k miles. Advance Auto gave me the wrong part, although the function seemed similar. I can't find anything on the idle up valve, plus it is in no way connected to the A/C system, but is connected directly to the EGR system. I'll just have to wait for one to pop up in the pull yard!

Thanks Box! I think you're correct in saying it is the EGR solenoid. Advance Auto has the incorrect picture, but they both have two lines and a plug. And it does dump into the intake manifold. At only around $70, I think I'll be good

Thanks!

TL:DR Look at picture below and tell me WTF this thing is. Thanks.

Hi people!

I have been having this super annoying issue with my car where it jerks SO MUCH! Sometimes it doesn't happen for a few days, other times it'll happen for several days. Sometimes it'll happen only when the engine is cold, other times it'll happen when warm. I've replaced a few components during my diagnosing attempts and the car ran better overall each time I replaced something (come on! I have more miles than you after all!), but I still had to put up with the jerking! Keep in mind that my problem is resolved, I'm just giving you a back story!

I've done:
Full tune-up - was not overdue but didn't hurt to perform one
Fuel filter - that thing was nasty! The gas came out black
TPS - had amazing throttle response after replacing
Fuel pump - WHOA! Ran so smooth (of course when the issue wasn't occurring)

I suspected:
MAP - F**K THAT S**T! So damn expensive. Plus I flicked it hard enough and the engine didn't react (tried and true method of testing)
Engine mounts - they didn't look too bad
Clutch - passed all of my tests (plus, is about 4 years old)
Distributor - Uhhhhh, let's not go there...

So, I was checking for vacuum leaks today and noticed a sensor looking thing on the firewall, behind the TPS. I flicked it as hard as I can (I can bruise a human being with a single flick, sometimes make them bleed) and the engine stuttered and almost stalled out completely - told you my flick method works. I unplugged this device and the car has since ran soooo smooothly. OMG BRO, like its a new car! #firstworldproblems #WTFisthisSHIZ #INormallyDontHastagButIveBeenDrinking #nof*cksgivenSFWversion

So, what is this thing! I won't give excuses as to why I don't know what it is...I simply don't know what it is!

The engine bay is not of my car and is, in fact, not a Celica. However, the location of the unknown device is the same.

Thanks peeps!

Seriously! Also, I forgot to mention my method of removing the 30mm axle nut. Forget all this pry bar, rim half on nonsense.

I simply used my floor jack lever and wedge it between the seat and brake pedal. If it doesn't work, just pump the brakes first, wedge it and slide the seat up as far as you can.

I had quite the journey working on my car the past few days. I replaced the cv axle on the driver's side and just wanted to share a few tips with you. Your experience might be different than mine, but I'm just wanting to put this information out there.

Tips:
>>>>Get a damn slide hammer: Autozone rents them and you need the FWD axle adaptor. You WILL get the axle out using this method. Place the axle adaptor immediately behind the dust shield on the transmission side of the axle and screw in the slide hammer afterward. It's a tight fit to try to screw on the adaptor before placement.
>>>>Keep your old axle's c-clip. I had an issue with the ring being too thick on the new axle, so I pulled the ring off of the old one.
>>>>If the new axle will not go in, be very patient. Putting the c clip with the opening facing down did not help me. Instead, I turned the axle an 1/8 of a turn after every couple of pushes and it popped right in before a second full rotation.
>>>>Replace your transmission oil seal. I did not replace mine on the first go round, but managed to mess up the seal either during the removal of the old axle, or the installation of the new. I had gear oil spewing out while driving, idling and even during my nightmares.
>>>>You don't need a fancy tool to remove the old seal. Just use the largest crescent style wrench you own. A 19mm worked just fine for me. Stick one part of the open end just behind the seal and pop it out. I learned this trick from working on mountain bike suspension systems. Clean the seat after removing the old seal.
>>>>A setting tool would be very handy to install the new seal but is not necessary. Level out the new seal and push (with both hands) on the seal all around and with even pressure. Start with light pressure and build up as the seal is seated better. Be sure you're pushing at opposite sides at all times - 12 and 6 o'clock, 3 and 9 o'clock, and so on. For the last bit you can position the old seal on top of the new seal and hammer the edges to seat the seal fully. I used a breaker bar to hammer at the old seal which was pushing in the new seal.
>>>>Push down on the rotor to reinstall the lower strut mounts. This was a no brainer for me but might be difficult for some.

I've done so many axle replacements but never on a car with as many miles as mine. You might not have all of these issues but I would love to make life less miserable for those that will.


Care to add any tips?

Good luck with it all my friend! Keep us posted on what you find out.

Time alone can cause a radiator to go bad. It probably had a crack before it was stored and simply dried out even further. You can get yourself an aluminum radiator if you plan on keeping it for a while and never have that issue again.

Try burping it again. I had a similar issue with a Mark III Supra. I had a lot of growling behind the cluster and burped the system enough to rid the car of the growling, but there was still A LOT of air in the system - causing overheating problems. I had to park at a very extreme angle to get this settled (about 35%). I went sideways up this huge hill on UNCC's campus and cut it uphill at the last second, I thought I was going to slide down! Anyways, I opened the radiator cap and only turned the engine over for half a second, without letting it turn on completely and starting running. I topped off the radiator after each time that I turned the engine over. After this, I no longer had any issues. The air bubble could cause poor circulation and overheat a pocket of water.

My car (7A-FE, 285k) had a very similar issue. It would hesitate from a stop and occasionally stall when COASTING to a stop. At around 2,800 RPM (my cruising RPM) the car would jerk violently and would be unresponsive if I slammed the gas down (did so just to test). I suspected TPS and replaced it, along with a tune up (cap, button, wires and plugs). The problem went away completely for a couple of weeks, but then I started experiencing similar issues - hesitation, surges and very poor idle. After a 3 hour highway trip I replaced my fuel filter and again, the problem went away completely. Keep in mind that these separate occurrences may be completely unrelated - the symptoms were all similar, however. What sucks is that you already replaced these parts. Do you know from first hand experience that the donor car was running properly? If not, maybe they got rid of the car for the same reason.

Have you had ANY improvements since replacing the parts you mentioned?

It's possible the belt slipped a lot while under water and glazed over. Now dry, the belt can't bite. Also, could just be that it worked itself loose. Check the tension on the belt (start with the alternator since it's the most likely culprit. Now I'm just noticing that you've had the belt like this for a month...so it probably is glazed over no matter how it happened. Just tighten that thing down and see if there's any improvement.

Awesome plans Viceman! Others should be able to chime in on that.

I don't like the slip on covers and yes, it's the second type. Yours looks pretty good!

Are you saying you don't like reupholstery?

Sup peeps!

So I was lurking around one of the local Goodwills and found a Wheelskins leather steering wheel cover for $2.99! I love you Goodwill.

Well, I did some research to ensure it would fit before I bought it - it does, by the way. The one we need for our cars are a size AXX; outside steering wheel diameter: 14 1/2 to 15 1/2 inches, and grip circumference: 3 5/8 to 3 7/8 inches. Just so happens the one I bought was a custom order with a 14 1/2" x 3 7/8" size!

Just spreading the knowledge love. I'll post pics up once I install it - will not be until next week though.

Also, I know some people to have issues finding a proper fitting steering wheel cover at the parts store. I went to Pep Boys a few years ago and found a black mesh one that fit perfectly. After washing it several times it started to slip though (not good when cornering). That's why I'm excited for the new skin!