6G Celicas Forums

In the USA they use a different way of rating octane than in Japan, NZ, Netherlands etc.

There are 3 main ways of testing the octane rating: RON, MON and PON.

We use RON (Research Octane Number), whereas in the US PON (Pump Octane Number) is used - which is an average of RON and another way of rating octane called MON (Motor Octane Number)

So when someone in the US says they're using 92 it's the same as our 96:

RON 92 95 96 98
MON 85 87 88 90
PON 88.5 91 92 94

Hope this helps

Click here for more info.

It's $NZ 1.31/L for 98 octane here in NZ at the moment - works out to around $NZ 4.96/gallon or $US 3.55/gallon.

For the kiwis or those interested, this site shows all the prices throughout the country: http://www.pricewatch.co.nz

The SSIII also came with a White-face gauge with orange needle option

Hi, welcome to the site

Check out this post from 2003, hopefully it will answer a lot of your questions: click here

As others have said, the stud pattern for the 6th gen celica is 5x100

Here's more info:

Centre Bore: 54.06mm
Lug Nut: 12x1.5
Offset: 35-38 (up to 43 max)

This link has good info on the GT-Four diffs as well as definitions explaining how they work.

Another option is to get one of these generic in-dash single din cup holders: click here. They're about $NZ55 which is around $US40.

The car in the pic is the Toyota Trueno AE111 BZR. In Japan, as part of the Corolla family they have two 2 door coupes: the Trueno (which means thunder) and the Levin (which means lightning). They are based on the same car - but have different fronts and rears.

The earlier Trueno (AE101) looked like this: click here
It came with the 4AGE Silvertop or in the GT-Z model, the 4AGZE (supercharged) pic:
click here (distinguished by the sexy ST185 GT-Four style hood scoop)

The earlier Levin looked like this: click here

As you can see, basically the same - but the levin has always had an open grill.

The car for sale: the AE111 is the latest shape - it's squarer and has the Blacktop 4AGE engine and came out in Japan in late 1995. Better pics: click here, and here.

The BZR model also came with a 6sp manual gearbox.

The Trueno's full name is the Toyota Sprinter Trueno and the Levin's is Toyota Corolla Levin (aka Corolla Coupe).

The Trueno and Levin are Very common and are basically coupe versions of the legendary Corolla GT (FXGT in Japan).

More info: Levin, Trueno

Hope this helps

This is the original one I saw on the web:



This is the copy I made in photoshop (I've got other variations somewhere - but this is the only one I could find on this computer):



(also check my sig for another photochop)

The company Parallel Imported has been getting some good feedback on the nz car forums recently - all brand name products with warranties: click here

After my original metal valve caps went missing, I got another set of nice shiney ones, only to have them stolen 2 weeks later, I replaced these with cheap plastic silver coloured ones, 3 days later I noticed they too had gone - it was then I got mad . . . .

Half an hour of websurfing, free international shipping and 5 days later my precious's had arrived - shiney (ohhh), metal (quality!) and non removable - without a key (muhahahaha).

Maybe not as bling as trd, but they're still there

The brand I got was Spincaps: click here

BTW if anyones looking for trd dress up items check out this site: <homer> mmmmmm TRD Gold Anodised Oil Filler Caps </homer>

Hi, I don't know much about coupes, but could it be your antenna motor? I recently had mine out and it's only secured with one bolt and the screw on top. If that bolt has loosened a little it could be creating your rattle.

Just a thought

This is fun

When I think of light weight japanese wheels Volk/Rays Engineering is the first company that comes to mind.

I agree with CelicaTEK, go for the Gram Lights 57C for the classic white 5 spoke jdm/rally look: click here

This is rays homepage: click here

The bulbs in sthen's post look like PY21W's.

If they are these might be what you're after: click here

They're silver coloured, but glow orange when 'indicating'.

On the wing mirrors?

96 SSII Hatch - 27k miles

gh0st_d0g is right that SSIIIs have superstrut suspension, but it was also an option in the SSIIs.

This post from last year may have some helpful info on SS models:
click here

This post has a discussion on what SS stands for: click here

Would the pic on this site work? click here

The only aftermarket intake for the BEAMs I've seen in real life was this HKS setup I spied on an SSIII last year, but it's not really a full kit. Even though the stock inlet pipe coming from the fender is still there, I'd think this would suffer from a lot of heatsoak.




However K&N have an induction kit for the 2.0L 6th Gen Celica (94-99): click here The pdf instruction sheet on that site has pics of the celica and how to install the kit.

The owner of the black car has another style of tail lights in their profile: click here

Hi

Here are some measurements I got of my car - the image is a bit big (mods might wanna put up a 56k warning) but I did it in photoshop and didn't wanna lose clarity by downsizing it too much

The Sportivo Coupe concept was reviewed in a NZ magazine a few months ago - the reviewer actually test drove it and got all his information from the car's creators - Toyota Australia.


Here is some of the info from the article:

The Sportivo Coupe Concept Car was test driven at the Melborne Motor Show by Bruce Newton and reviewed in New Zealand Autocar - June 2004 (page 48-54)

"The Sportivo Coupe is a concept car worth over $1 million dollars and was created in Australia.

It is a true concept. Maybe some ideas and elements will eventually appear somewhere but you'll never see a Sportivo Coupe on Auckland's southern motorway (or any other highway).

It is very much a flag waving exercise for Toyota Australia as it seeks to introduce itself to a new, youger generation - so much so that many of the ideas which shaped the car and its functions originated in a series of information-gathering exercises involving around 100 14-18 year old teenagers. The teens were first sampled to gain their initial thoughts on the positives and negatives of their lifestyles, and then were recalled about three weeks later to give their thoughts on the 30-40 exterior and interior designs developed by Toyota Australia based on their input.

The Sportivo came together in just 30 weeks and was approved in July after Toyota Australia wanted another project following their first successful concept car the X-Runner in 2003

The mechanical basis of Sportivo is from the Japanese Camry (Hokkaido-spec) and features the same constant four wheel drive system as the RAV4. The 4 speed automatic gearbox has been swapped out for a 5 speed manual (this necessitated a change of the rear differential to match it).

Toyota Australia supplier APS was commissioned to seriously pep up the familiar 2AZ-FE 2.4 litre inline four-cylinder engine. This they did courtesy of a Garrett GT25 turbocharger, intercooler and custom exhaust system among other improvements. The Sportivo pumps out 180KW at 560rpm and 305Nm at 4500rpm - that's without any attention paid to the engine internals and only rudimentary ECU re-mapping.

The Sportivo Coupe Concept made the Melborne, Adelaide and Perth motor shows and is now off to Japan for a first-hand inspection at Toyota headquarters, then it goes to the Middle East for a tour of Toyota Australia's most important export market".


As for future Evo's (from Sept 2004 NZ Performance Car Magazine): As the natural successor to the Evolution XIII MR, the Evo IX is estimated to make its JDM debut in 2005. However Mitsubishi Head Office high ranking officials seem hell-bent on hyping the Evo X, even though it doesn't look set to break cover until 2007.

The Evolution X, a concept picture of which was recently flashed on a big screen at an unrelated Mitsubishi press conference, will take on a fresh look and run on a new 4wd chassis arrangement. Whether or not the X will use the 4G63T engine that's been in action right from the very start of the Evolution series seems unclear.

If you're after increased performance, and don't mind a stiffer ride, might I suggest you look at non-progressive springs (TRD?). Also remember that springs are only part of the equation, shocks, swaybars, bushes etc can all have a big impact on how the car handles.

Also, while lowering a car can improve handling, this is only up to a certain point, after which the car can actually handle worse than the stock set up - to the point of being dangerous. Take a look at this post from toyspeed.org.nz, the author is very experienced in these things and puts it a lot better than I could:

"when you lower a vehicle you change the roll centre, which is a suspension angle and alignment thing, basically you can only lower a vehicle so far before you make the car handle easily worse then stock (very generally 1-2" with an increase in spring rate is about right). The point Snoozin was trying to make (although he didn't spell it out, if you were real clued up you wouldn't need to be told anyways) is that you can only lower a vehicle slighly before you change the suspension geometry so much that you affect roll centre adversely. Very generally just to give an example that the lay men out there can appreciate, say your looking at the front mac pherson struts on a car, you have an upright coil over shock which bolts to your hub, your hub is connected by a ball joint to a control arm (which is essentially a wishbone) in a normal stance the control arm will angle down from the chassis towards the hub with the hub pivot sitting lower then the pivot point on the chassis, this is very important aspect. When the car is cornering and weight is transfered (and the car tilts onto the outside wheel, we all know what body roll is) the coil over contracts up as the spring is compressed under the load the hub follows and would you now it the control arm does to, now comes the hard part to explain, because of the angle of the control arm and the fact that outside pivot of the control arm is sitting higher it is also further out from the chassis (think of it cutting an arc) this dials in more camber to the the outside wheel and improves that tyres contact patch to suit the cars angle of roll.
The problem is when you lower a car dramatically (even 2" and its very likely your control arms will be level when the suspension is neutral) your control arms dont point down and out like they used to, they are either level or in the worse case point upwards, if the roll centre of your front suspension is like that then as that side of the car becomes loaded mid corner you decrease your negative camber and subsequently the cars contact patch. "

Hope this helps

This may do the trick: click here

Or for more power: click here