6G Celicas Forums

All of the above is good advice. That said, I'd check the anti-sway bar bushings, because it's an easy thing to test and a cheap fix.

Simply disconnect the brackets holding the bushings to the chassis, and then bounce the suspension. If the noise is gone, head to your dealer and spend the $20 to get new bushings. If not, then add $20 to your budget when you replace the struts/dampners to also replace the bushings, because after 220,000 kms they'll be in need of replacement.

Dim bulb usually indicates either a bad bulb, or a bad connection. If you have a multimeter, you could check what kind of current/voltage you're getting from the socket.

If you didn't get an alignment after the engine was swapped, then you.

An alignment should be done basically any time the suspension has been altered. Disassembling/reassembling it counts as altering -- you really cannot eyeball it back into place.

If you did not maintain the same overall diametre between wheel and tire combinations, then your alignment can easily be thrown off (though that is typically camber, rather than the toe misalignment RabidTRD mentions).

Condensor fan is the for AC condensor, not the intended to reduce the temperature of the engine coolant (though given its position next to the radiator it can't help but do so).

Unfortunately I'll be out there for work -- five days of training and after-hours networking. And no Celica, driving it out from B.C. would be a bit much.

Hey now, Winnipeg isn't winter all year. There's also blackfly season.

Unfortunately, I'm expecting to visit Winnipeg in early May, when it may still be frozen if the current weather is any indication.

Check the parking brake assembly. Inside the drum the shoes are held in place by hold-down springs. The springs are compressed by being mounted on pins. If the straight pin broke, or the curved pin straightened, the shoe is free to move and rattle against the backing plate.

Huh, thought the 5SFE was North American-only, and that Australia got the 3SGE.

Even if he did replace them, he could have misaligned the spark plug tube seals.

The other possibility is the oil is actually coming up from the inside of the tubes. I'm less certain this is possible, given you're running a 3SGE, but on the 5SFE the spark plug tubes are screwed into the head. The threads are sealed to prevent oil from working its way into the combustion chamber and up into the spark plug tube. Over time, that sealant degrades.

If the 3SGE has the spark plug tubes mounted in the same manner, then you may have to pull the tubes to clean the threads and reseal them. Toyota specifies a particular compound, but it's commercially available in the form of Loctite blue high-temp thread locker. The tubes themselves are fairly difficult to remove without crushing them. You can either use a chain wrench, which may damage the tubes, or use two nuts (one on which to set the wrench, and the other to lock the first in place) to achieve sufficient leverage.

The 10-15 per cent ethanol in standard gas won't hurt a Japanese engine from the 1990s or newer. The damage to hoses was confined to natural rubber hoses (old tech) or domestic manufacturers using less resilient materials. Our engines had no compatability issues.

However, ethanol is also good at dissolving carbon deposits. In a clean engine, that's not an issue, nor is it (generally) in an engine which has been regularly running ethanol-mixed or high detergent (Top Tier) gasoline. In an engine with a lot of miles and some buildup, ethanol carries the same danger as other deposit-removing cleaners, such as Sea Foam.

They can loosen deposits and set them free into the fuel system before it's completely dissolved to plug up a filter or fuel line -- rather like a clot breaking free and causing a stroke by blocking blood flow. The fuel filter's the most likely to clog, because that's its job; it catches all the crud built up in your tank and fuel lines before it gets into the delicate parts of the fuel system, and it's a lot cheaper to replace.

When you say the rear lights, you mean the ones which share a position with the brake lights? Common issue there is that one of the dual filaments in an 1157 burnt out -- usually it's the running light as it's on all the time. So, the bulb will not illuminate until you press the brake pedal, which is how I read your description of the problem.

You mention changing the harness, but not the bulbs.

When you say the rear lights, you mean the ones which share a position with the brake lights? Common issue there is that one of the dual filaments in an 1157 burnt out -- usually it's the running light as it's on all the time. So, the bulb will not illuminate until you press the brake pedal, which is how I read your description of the problem.

Aftermarket, for standard parts, probably rockauto.com. For actual Toyota parts, which can often be price-competitive with aftermarket, look to Lithia Toyota (ask for Tracy, he's the usual guy for the Celica community).

Never heard of an aftermarket kit, but you can probably get the complete system from an auto recycler -- though you'd want to buy a couple of the items new since they're damaged or at least unreliable once the system is opened. Check car-part.com for yards in your area.

Don't forget to replace the spring seat insulators, as well as the strut mounts when you replace the struts. You'll also likely need to replace the boots, stabilizer bar end links, and possibly the bump stops (though those are often integrated into aftermarket boots).

A caveat to your Toyota not caring is certain anti-freezes do contain compounds such as Dex-Cool's 2-Ethylhexanoic Acid (aka 2-EHA) intended to soften plastics (or more accurately, prevent them from getting brittle). If your system isn't designed for these compounds -- which is to say it was built with non-silicone or non-nylon hoses and gaskets -- the potential for damage exists.

The other issue is silicates. Japanese long-life coolants do not contain silicates because they've found silicates to produce issues with water pump seals. North American conventional ethylene glycol anti-freeze use silicates and phosphates to prevent corrosion. European anti-freeze avoids phosphates because they react with hard water to form mineral scales, which insulate the engine, replacing the phosphates with neutralized carboxylic acids. Asian anti-freezes remove silicates, keeping the phosphates and replacing the silicates with neutralized carboxylic acids. An anti-freeze with nothing but neutralized carboxylic acids will satisfy both European and Asian requirements.

That said, the act of replacing the radiator can stress hoses far beyond the usual vibration they'd encounter with running engine, so it's best to examine the hose before and after you replace the radiator to ensure you haven't introduced any new failure on hoses which you have to attach or detach.

Alternately, check car-part.com to see if a junkyard near you has a Celica of the right vintage.

Any idea on the weight of those wheels? It'd be too much to ask you to pull the tires off, but if you could weigh the combined wheel and tire, and identify the tire brand/model/size, I'm sure I could find the tire's weight listed somewhere.

I'm hoping it's not too bad, considering the focus on weight reduction the rest of the car received. Can't imagine Toyoda would accept Toyota dropping wheels as heavy as those of the Scion tC (22 lbs) onto the GT86.

Remakes of the 1980s -- stripped of all social commentary, satire, and emotionally-disturbing violence in exchange for generally thoughtless blow-em-ups with pretty CGI and prettier actors.

The rating dropping from R to PG-13 suggests pretty clearly they're not going to try too hard to include a bloody civics/philosophical lesson the way the first movie did...

Erm, I know this is going to sound simplistic, but if you have good gas delivery when the gauges read 0 and poor when the guages read normal...do you have the gauges installed in reverse?

If you're really worried, I found isopropyl alchohol and non-acetone fingernail polish remover both worked well at softening the adhesive. For the most part you don't have to worry, unless the vinyl behind the hard is cracked -- most likely around the edge of the card where the vinyl is pressed into that tight crevice.

Open cell foam backed by foil is also the preferred means of noise insulation for airplanes. It's used on ducting not nearly so much for heat blocking as for noise -- it's not meant as a vibration dampener.

Mass loading is good at stopping a panel from vibrating, which is absolutely necessary when the source of the noise/vibration is the vehicle itself (either the engine, the body shaking or sound system). It is much less necessary when you're attempting to stop exterior noise from entering the vehicle, in large part because the vibration of the panel from transmitted sound waves is so much weaker. For road noise absorption is almost as effective as mass dampening, without the weight penalty.

If the additional mass, the loss of performance, the degraded fuel economy and the higher cost are irrelevant to your goals, then yes the Frost King is not a suitable product for your application. However, saying it is never a suitable product ignores the fact that it's designed for precisely this task -- absorption and reflection of an external noise source -- which has led to FAA certification for use in airplanes, and the success others have experienced with it.

Better or worse depends upon the goal.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=71666&hl=

Choose the source of the sound you want to reduce. The product you choose to install depends on the type of noise you want to reduce.

The FrostKing is good at blocking outside noise from entering the car -- noise from tires, other cars, and to some extent the wind. It is a foam (absorbs noise) backed by foil (reflects the sound waves), best applied to the exterior panels. FrostKing/Thermwell does little to reduce the vibration of body panels, and very little to improve speaker performance. The point of using FrostKing is to make the inside of the car quieter.

If you read the entire thread, you will see it can be used through the entire interior of the car.

Canada is still a member of the Commonwealth -- there's a reason Queen Elizabeth II is on our coinage (note, NOT the queen of England, the queen of Canada). Most of the Middle East was also under British influence (who do you think did all the partitioning?).