6G Celicas Forums

Hi all,

Some beginner questions on brake caliper guide-pin bushings. Last when I replaced my brake pads I noticed my guide-pin rubber bushings were looking pretty old/worn, so this go around while I'm replacing my rotors I'll address those bushings.
I have an ST with rear disc conversion, so I'm aware that when looking up parts--> ST parts on fronts and GT parts on rears.

First (dumb one): Are there two guide-pin bushings on each caliper?

Second: How difficult is it to replace the guide-pin bushings? Maybe someone can describe the steps.

Third: I was thinking of buying OE replacement bushings (Wagner), just cause I don't think there is much to them. But please let me know if there is something important I'm not considering. I don't want to realize I needed some other parts, then I'm left waiting on parts.

Thanks in advance!

This thread might my savior. Been suffering with the same symptoms Jmk91 had.... rattling/clunking coming from the top of the rear struts. I had put in after market struts.

Jmk91 (or anyone who knows): Do I have to take the strut/spring completely apart or does the spacer just go in between the top of the strut and mount (i.e. unbolt the strut, put spacer on, bolt strut back up)?
Also where's the best place to buy this part... Toyota? I did find the part listed in ToyotaOverstock but seems to be NLA. What is the difference between the two part numbers listed (90387-15012) and (90387-15027)?
And just so I'm sure... one (1) spacer for each side or two (2)? The below diagram seems to indicate two "(2)".

ToyotaOverstock

Thanks for the Info.
When you get them installed Id love to know how much of a drop the TRD springs actually gave you. Been reading some older posts and some people mention its more like a 1" drop (which would be perfect/inline with my current Eibachs). Also wonder about the kyb g2s. Heard thay are stiffer tham stock... but agian l love to get a review after you intall them.

Thanks all for the replies. I appreciate everyone's inputs.

Lamont: The TRD springs intrigue me! but do seem a bit pricey, nevertheless great recommendation. I would think TRD makes a trusted/quality spring.

BUT I'm starting to realize a possible cause of my suspension woes: Pairing Lowering springs with a "stock replacement strut" or a strut not designed to take a lowered ride. Which is now why I'm looking into coilovers or (if they exist) a aftermarket street spring/strut pairing.
Problem with coilovers is that buying "cheap" ones cause bigger problems. So ok, if I go coilovers they will need to be a top 4 brand. Now the other question I have is: will good coilovers, set a it's softest setting, give a comfortable/stock ride?

Jmk91, just curious why don't you like coilovers? What brand have you used to give you that opinion?


This video helped me consider some things.
Coilovers_vs_Springs

I understand. Again, obtaining a comfortable/stock ride quality is 1 of 2 requirements (other being not much lower than 1" drop). Are you saying coilovers adjusted to their "softest" setting will give a ride quality equal to stock? I would think not... but I'm not sure and that's why I ask.

I haven't ruled them out. But my take on coilovers is that meant for performance (i.e. inherently stiffer ride quality vs. "stock"). I might be wrong.... but again that's my take.

I'm at the point on my life where I know what my car is used for.... to look nice, get me to work, grocery store, gym, and occasional road trip. I don't want or my passengers nor me to have a unpleasant/rough ride.

If there are coilovers out there that you've (or any other members) have had personal experience with, that achieve said requirements above..... I'm all ears.

thanks!

Hi all,

Once again my suspension is just utter ****. 8-9 years ago I started off with Eibach ProKit Springs (1inch drop), with stock struts. Those road fine but noticed the travel of the suspension was causing my tires to bottom. Ok, so I wanted some stiffer aftermarket struts.... order blistein struts; bad choice. Waaay to stiff and always klunking (and yes replaced the strut mounts). At this point I don't know what to blame the springs or the struts..... but enough is enough.

I would like to have my suspension feel "stock" (i.e not stiff), without changing my ride height from the 1" drop. I realize that having 18" wheels introduces it's own problems, I accept that.
So my plan is to order either KYB or Monroe struts, and replace my springs with 1" drop aftermarket springs. The problem is Eibach doesn't make the 1" drop ProKit Springs anymore. So, does anyone have recommendations on a Very Good aftermarket spring brand (that offers 1" drop)? Want a brand that'll last for years and not give me a "harsh" ride quality.

If this makes a night/day difference, I'll proceed to replace all the suspension bushings (no poly... just new stock parts).

Thanks,

utslickvic

Never mind.
Stopped by a local muffler shop and the gentlemen replaced it with a 2bolt oval metal/fiber gasket that wasn't a "perfect" fit, but close enough.
$30 ... took him 20 minutes. Ahh well.

He planned to take the old gasket and compare it to what he had in stock.... unfortunatly the greddy gasket literally crumbled into a many pieces as soon as he unbolted the flanges. He said it looked like the old gasket was all fiber vs. Fiber/metal.

Anywho, sounds good again. No more swooshing and sounds less like a typical "rice burner" exhaust. Funny all it took was a subtle change in sound for me to notice something was up.

Hi all!

Noticed my muffler sounding a but louder and a slight swooshing sound when hitting the gas pedal. Looked underneathe and saw that one of my exhaust gaskets is almost gone. Its the oval gasket that is at the pipe flange joint closest to the muffler. Its a greddy sp2 and wondering what's the best place to get a replacement?

Since it's a aftermarket exhaust, would a oem size not fit? Is there a size difference between the GT vs. ST size (I ask b/c I can't remember if the greddy was more sized to the GT). Greddy website has gaskets for purchase bit I'm not sure what size my sp2 is.
Looked on rockauto but all it shows me are round gaskets. Amybe there is another gasket at that joint ??? And I'm a bit thrown off by their termonolgy.
I may hit up Autozone or Orliey's just to see what they have.

Any useful info would be appreciated!

Here is a schematic of the exhaust. The joint I'm talking about is at #31320

Looking to restore some of my black plastic interior pieces. My first thought was to use a good UV protected spray paint but I've noticed that some black sprays have a different tone to it; most apparent in direct sunlight. I guess the best way I can describe it is a very-faint brown vs. true black. Wondering if anyone out there has found a good black spray that matches the interior factory black?

Adding a couple of youtube links I found: one is a proper method of re-spraying. The other using a heat gun.... which I NEVER heard of but seems interesting.

Interior Plasitc Re-Spray

Interior plastic restore using Heat Gun

Ahhhh!!! That would make sense, I'll check that out and see how it works.

Thanks for that reply!

I have some questions regarding the A/C components behind the glove compartment (passenger side lower dash). Please note: I'm obsessive when it comes to my car and trusting others to work on my Celica is difficult for me. Can't trust mechanics these days.

I got an auto-shop to diagnose my a/c not working. It had stop working for awhile now (no a/c light but fan still operated), so when I took it to them I expected it to be the compressor. To my surprise they drained the system/recharged it w/ dye to trace leaks which resulted in the a/c to start working again! They were surprised (as was I) but said the dye would help to track down coolant leaks should the system get weak again. After a few months it started getting weak so I took it back to see where they could track down the problem. They said I had a bad evaporator core (fine, have to trust them on that). I asked that they use only Toyota parts and might as well order/replace the expansion valve; which they did.

Obsessive part: I can't trust anyone taking things off my car because usually they are not careful/don't care and -f crap up. Interior parts are hard to come by these days, so I decided to take apart the glove compartment (lower dash), that way they won't break interior pieces and what not. I'd plan to but it back together when they were done. Before I dropped it off I took photos of the disassembled lower dash, that way if I saw something out-of-sorts I could compare back to the photos. Prevents them from saying.... "it was like that when you brought it in".


So, first thing I noticed was a connector that didn't seemed to be plugged in. Compared back to my photos and sure enough they "forgot" to plug that back together... THe male end was hdden under the carpet. No biggy (plugged it back in, goo to go) but I have a question... a/c was working / cooling fine without that harness connected; Does anyone know what that harness does?


Next thing I noticed. Looking into what I think is the blower "cage" compartment... Before: The foam-filter looking thing was right up against the "cage" wall.



After: It's now up against the top of the compartment. Noticed that foam-filter is has two precut holes (I assume to hold it in place somewhere?). Does anyone know what this thing is/does and how is it supposed to be properly installed? Pictures would help a million. Today I heard a strange whooping noise every so often (sounded like someone blowing through a straw! and it wasn't a faint noise! Wonder if that thing is blocking air, causing that noise?... I dunno


Thanks Gents!

-Vic

Thanks Guys. I did buy some at Oriley's... they seemed like they would fit well. Weird thing was they did not engage well (meaning pushing the tab in was taking too much force / and effort); really felt like an idiot.

Anywho, once they engage they would break! Really surprised by the shotty quality. I'll try autozone next...

Before I start my adventures to the junkyards... I was wondering of anyone has discovered a way to purchase those plastic push screws (usually used on the door panel edges) and/or other plastic screws (like the ones used to secure the trunk liners) ????


Also, been looking out for anyone parting out their ride on the Buying/Selling forum.

-Vic

Hi All,

After a long hiatus, I'm driving my Celica again! She needs some TCL so I'm looking for some parts. The tabs on my A-pillar covers broke and I need replacements.

LOOKING FOR:
Both LHS and RHS A-pillar interior panel covers for 1994-1999 Coupe (see below picture for clarification). If both are not available, the driver side is priority,

CONDITIONS:
OEM, Black (unpainted), Good-Great condition, All tabs must be intact (unbroken).



If you're "near" the DFW area I can pick them up.

Thanks in advance!!!!


-Vic

Yeah I had read that^ in this thread and in others. It was on my list of things to check, which I did... and it was indeed that connector/wire that is behind the airbag. Once again the 6gc community provided me with information that would take hours if not days for someone to figure out on there own. Plus I did find the horn relay... duuurrr... underneath the engine bay relay/fuse-box cover has what each one goes to... the gray box is the horn relay (which btw had no idea how to check if its good or bad). Anywho checking three things, finding the problem, and fixing the problem took ~1 hour). I really appreciate this forum and its contributing members!

-Vic

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
------ bump- -----

Anyone?

Hi guys, reserecting this thread: My horn is out, first time ever. Checked the 7.5A fuse and its fine but I need to check the relay. Where is this horn relay? Looking at this picture above, is it the top-most yellow arrow? I hope its that easy.

Next thing I will check is the connector behind the airbag. Then I will check the horn itself. After that, if none of those things helps fix it... I'm up a s#@t creek and asking yall for more help.

thanks

Well I filled her up with premium and poured in some VV fuel injector cleaner. I've been driving her as much as I can and it has made a slight difference. In Drive/Park stopped she is idling @ 600 RPM exactly.

SupraKid is the 700 - 1100 RPM band a factual range? If not, I'm contiplating calling toyota and asking if they know what is the ideal idle range for a 94-99 Celica ST.

I will say this the vibration seems almost non-existant now (at least while stopped/in drive). She is VERY SMOOTH while driving and at a stop light. I was thinking this is as close to an electric car feeling as I can get (I speculate)

Yep I think the low idle is causing the vibration. I agree with you about the replacement of anything that can cause a misfires. I guess I will replace the plugs/plug wires and distributor before I adjust anything. To tell you the truth I don't want to mess with the throttle body wire.... yet. I guess I feel like it has nver been mess3ed with beofre, why should I start now. I will get my mechanic to replace the engine mounts, but after that, if nothing has changed then I will start to worry.

Wonder how difficult it is to replace the distrubutor cap?... new territory for me.

Thanks for your advice. Any others?

Hey all,

Hate to say this but I had not started/ran my car for 6+months. So I decided to get her started and do some maintenance. Before I started her I changed the oil and filter. Had to jump her to get here started, but after that all was fine (battery practically brand new). It has a very small amount of fuel left but did not fill her up with new fuel yet.

Ok, so here is what I noticed. Driving experience was great aside from the brake pad noise. She did not sputter nor was there a hesitation in acceleration (1.8L so I don't expect much). One thing that I that took me off guard was when I stoppped (still in drive) her idle was so soft/quiet that I tought the engine was about to die. 3Years Back: I got my timing belt changed and I noticed afterwards that it had a slight vibration when stopped / in park, but it never really phased me. Vibration can be "seen" through the steering wheel. Back to the Present: So I just chalked up the restart experience to me not being use to my 1.8L. So I got out left her running / in park, thats when I noticed I could see vibration (moderate shaking) on my trunk lid. Traced it back to the exhaust which then I traced back to the engine... which makes sense.

Long story short: The idle is so low that it is causing an engine vibration. Its like it has found harmony between idle and nearly koncking out. Right now she is idling at ~500-600 rpm.

Fuel filter has been replaced before (~3yrs ago) and PCV valve. As far as I know my throttle adjucstment has never been tampered with. After all this brain storming I regapped/cleaning up my spark plugs... made a very slight difference.

My biggest worry is ?maybe? my timing belt job was done improperly. Again I think she has HAD this problem ever since that time belt job... I think. But everyone tells me its not that (not sure why it can't be that). My distributer and and plug wire have never been replaced. I wish I can see a change in RPMs due to the a/c compressor but my a/c has been out of service for awhile now. Engine mounts need replacing?

I would like to know what I can do myself before I take it to a mechanic. Would like to here someone's diagnosis on this?

THANKS

-Vic

PS: Glad to be back on the 6GC board!

Still have mine

Its in the Northside of Fort Worth, off of N. Main Street. Corner of Ellis and NW 14 St. Place is called Chappo's (well that what I call it, owners name). Best if you know spanish and as specific as possible in what you want him to do. I'm a very nit picky so I had show him pictures and ask him for colors he had available. Pictures aided in showing what the stiching should look like. Dont' rememeber what he charged but its VERY reasonable. PS- left my seats with him for a weekend or so. PSS- they have wierd hours.

Hope this helps.

Hi 6gc community!

Gosh its been awhile since I've checked in. I still have my Celica BUT I purchased/upgraded to a BMW 335i Coupe (pretty much fully loaded) alittle over a year ago... so its has taken all my attention (sad to say). But like I said I decided to keep my Celica just because its been such a great car and I have put sooo much time/work/money into it. It was my first car and my Dad bought it for me back in '98-99, survived college high-jinx and I still use it as a long-tripper. Needless to say it has alot of sentimental value Here are some pics of my new straight-six Twin turbo beauty and my first love! Hope yall r well and I apologize for the unresponded messages I have received.

PS- GO HORNS!!!!!!!!!

edit: almost forgot! The last thing I did on the Celica was to swtich back to my old cloth seats BUT I had a local upholstery shop redo them in black leather and dircted im to make the stitching as close to OEM as possibl and told him to put the proliferated sections in the proper areas etc. He gave me a great deal if I remember correctly. Added some pics (sorry old camera phone pics). I really didn't like the salvage yard leather seats that I had in there... I guess I missed the feal of my old cloth seats.

wow glad to see you've gotten over that.... LOL

glad to see you havn't been gitting any sleep at night since you got owned.

lol... get some sleep dude and spend less time on the internet, go outside please.