6G Celicas Forums

I've installed new 6.5 speakers (replacing the OEM speakers) and simply drilled holes into the plastic speaker assembly in my car.

Do I want to go purchase some mounting brackets and seal the speakers in there?

I connected the new alarm wires to the old alarm wires for the parking lights, yes. I should probably make new splices.

Probably one is positive, the other is negative.

Parking Lights+ dk. green at dimmer
Parking Lights- lt. green steering column

Horn has a black and red likely. Pink goes to red, black goes to ground, usually a self-taping screw with star nut screwed into the firewall or other metal in the engine compartment.

Stepless gear... Pretty sure that means automatics only. It can be installed into a manual, but you will need to read up on it.

Oil pressure probably for remote start.

What alarm is this?

nc----orange
com---white
no----yellow

NC no connection
COM common/ground?
no ?

There should only be two wires coming from your alarm (both lock and unlock are negative triggered) going to the lock module under the steering column on the right.

Read your install manual closer.

If you want to use a two-stage unlock (unlock driver then passenger door by pressing remote unlock button twice) there would be three wires.

Same as the Prestige, everything was pretty much plug and play, spliced existing wires.

Parking Lights+ dk. green at dimmer
Parking Lights- lt. green steering column

Power Lock blue/black - lock module right of column
Power Unlock blue and green - lock module right of column (using both, diode isolated)


The one in the driver's kick panel is for the door open trigger as I recall ... is there another wire i could use in there for the parking lights or power locks?

I've installed a Code Alarm CA-160 upon seeing a couple people here with them who seemed to like them. Everything working for the most part, and it was pretty easy to replace an existing (old and dying Prestige).

I just have a couple problems that I'm trying to figure out.

1. Parking lights do not work when arm/disarming. I've tapped into the same wire used by the old alarm, which worked at one time then one day stopped blinking the lights. Parking lights do not work after installing the new alarm.

2. Same issue with unlocking the doors when disarm.. the door switch works, but doesn't unlock the doors all the time. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.

Are there fuses or relays that could be causing the kind of problem or is it just electrical shorts I'm probably dealing with?

I'd like to do this as well.... good idea.

www.discounttire.com (taken with a grain of salt) says 205/50-16.

is there a calculator tool that I can use to try and keep the speedo as close as possible without re-calibration?

What size tires fit the 16" 7th gens?

Gotcha. So new tires required, not a huge problem.

Question is, are they a direct bolt-on? No extra parts required?

I'm looking at purchasing some 16" wheels from a 7th gen Celica to go on my '97 GT w/ alloy wheels, and wanted to know if the 6th gen tires will fit.

I've read that it's a pretty easy swap (and looks good), but do I need to worry about having to buy new tires as well as the rims?

Apparently my rims have begun to corrode inside and are causing one tire to leak air because it's not getting a good seal on the lip, and I recently purchased tires - about 5k miles ago and I'm not looking forward to needing to buy new ones along with the 7th gen rims.

Anybody? I figure with this being such a common swap, there should be an article on the main site about this.

-Wayne

Buy it!

$38 6gc carbon fiber hood, brand new.

my post on getting a CF hood on my black celi:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=2&t=25479

I have a somewhat similar story, as far as getting rear-ended goes...but quite a bit different.

I once was in pretty heavy traffic on the freeway, where it was stop n' go for about 4 miles. I come to stop literally inches away from a brand new Lexus SUV, didn't even have tags yet. Behind me 4 cars stop, in order they were 99 Honda Accord, 94 VW Golf GTI, and an 03 Cavalier. Traffic starts to move, and just as I let off the clutch, and just as I do that, WHAM... a pretty good tap on the rear end -- I experienced some very mild wiplash. I'm thinking, WTF.

Apparently some asswipe on a cellphone in a '04 Sentra changed lanes from the far-left HOV lane into the fast lane right next to it, never noticed that the lane was slowing down very quickly... and then slammed into the Cavalier, which hit the GTI, which hit the Honda, which the Honda's licence plate frame scratched my rear bumper.

EVERY other car (and I'm no insurance adjuster) but I'm pretty sure they were ALL totaled. the GTI and Cavalier were sandwitched front and rear, the Honda rear end was smashed completely up to the C-pillar, and the Sentra's front end crushed up to the wheel well, exploded into a million parts and spewed steam, oil, and coolant all over the place.

And all I got was a 1" white scratch on my (black) rear bumper to prove it --- Luckily, not a single person was hurt badly. I'm sure there was plenty of chiropractor bills, but nothing major, no broken bones/profuse bleeding, etc.

That really woke me up as far as traffic awareness goes, and for awhile I was very leery of getting in the fast lane again... but alas, I'm back.

Had a guy working drive-thru at McDonald's ask me how much I paid for my carbon fiber hood, when I told him $36 bucks and gas to and from L.A. he couldn't beleive it.

Guy at Burger King asked what year Supra.... "I WISH!"

I had a kid who was about 14ish ask me questions about my car while I was at a gas station the other day, that was interesting.

Far out.

Same with me, this month has been the worst for me so far... repairs done or needing to be done a.s.a.p. so I can pass safety and emissions:

1. Drivers side CV axle, mechanic "says" passenger side will need to be replaced in the next 10k or so miles also.
2. Alternator
3. Battery (Dead alt KILLED the old battery)
4. EGR emissions CRAP (couldn't get it fixed on my own)
5. Removing 25% tint
6. New carbon fiber hood, old one was cracking from bondo repair (before I got the vehicle)
7. Missing lug nut (which I drove without on drive to LA and back to get my hood)

In total... $800+, I don't really want to do the math... in repairs/replacements, and somewhere near 20 hours working on it myself, plus a 1300 mile, 2 day drive to get the CF hood.

I'm not complaining by any means, I love my car still.

I beleive it's Code 401 (unsure) But it's definitely EGR flow insufficient.

I'll try banging it with a hammer, but how to get a vaccum to the valve? from the intake?

Yeah... well I got everything unbolted like you said... sprayed down the EGR valve and pipe with brake cleaner (used pretty much entire can on it) and it wasn't very dirty at all...

Drove it for 40 miles, then CEL came back on.

I still gotta check if the valve is working at all.

I got a vaccum gauge(EGR) and multimeter (VSV? forget the name of it) and I'm going to have a go at it tomarrow.

Emissions suck.

OK I figured it out finally.

The hood hinge when holding a heavy OEM hood rests on top of a gasket along the rear of the engine bay, right at the firewall, fits just great because the stock hood is heavy and is weighed down.

The carbon fiber hood weighs considerably less, and the gasket acts similar to a doorstop and props the hood up more than it should.

A pair of scissors did the trick, I just cut the gasket just enough to let the hinges drop down more, and now the hood fits just about perfect.

No hood pins for me, yay.

Busted the EGR valve modulator pulling a vaccum line off.

Gee, I think I am lucky... because I went ahead and bought JUST an EGR modulator at the junkyard off a '90 Celica.

Did I get the EGR valve as well? No. Yeehaw.

Alrighty.. I'm farther along and hopefully progressing quickly. Got throttle body off along with throttle cable and now I'm almost done. Yeehaw.

I guess I gotta remove the throttle body to get to the nut / bolt holding the pipe attached to the EGR valve.

Manual doesn't say it in writing, but it shows in the pictures that the throttle body is nowhere to be seen.

Hmm back to reading the Chilton... seems as if it's a long pipe that I've gottan unbolt the bottom of. Frustration setting in.