6G Celicas Forums

a week ago, i pulled up to a stop sign at a 4-way intersection. no cars, i start to proceed. as i'm accelerating, when i shift into 2nd, the car shudders, most likely because the clutch was slipping. i push in the clutch, go to neutral, and try again. it engages and still shudders/slips, but not as harshly. so i try and accelerate to 30mph, when, i think, the clutch fails. at this point, the engine is no longer driving the wheels, and i put it in neutral. the engine is still running, but my power steering is gone. i try to put it back in gear (clutch in), but it makes that awful grinding noise, no luck. THEN, my charge light and the oil pressure light both come on. it's time to pull over.

i come to a stop, the engine is running, but power steering still doesn't work. the charge and oil pressure lights are still on, so i shut it off to prevent any further damage.
under the hood. i don't notice any problems, i check the belts, ALL fluids. i get in, turn the ignition on. the normal lights are on, it's not throwing any codes. i try to start it, but...no joy. it cranks, but won't fire. great, so i had to call my house 13 miles away, and wait in 25* weather (at night), for my dad with the truck so we could tow it back.

now, i still can't figure out why she won't start. if that wasn't a problem, i would already be getting the clutch system replaced, but i need to solve this first.

condition of the car:
- 108k miles.
- full tank of gas.
- oil change 300miles ago, the level is fine.
- charged battery, the lights don't dim when cranking.
- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
- new fuel filter.
- belts are fine.
- NO leaks.
- NO trouble codes being thrown.

the car was running perfectly fine for months, no problems other than occasional, light, clutch slippage. by "light", i mean it was barely noticeable and didn't make the car shudder like it did that night.

i'm assuming the engine is getting fuel, because after a few tries, there's a faint smell of fuel from the engine bay. also, after i try to start it and stop, there's a humming noise, and a click. my guess is that's the sound of the fuel pump.

any help is appreciated. thanks

simply amazing. thank you!

interesting work, man. like the pics...like the GT4 even more!

but yea, don't plan on carrying much cargo with all that in the boot.

i think he's talking about the summer-formula gas. there are two formulas of fuel: summer and winter. most pump stations now have the summer fomula in their tanks. i suppose this fuel is more "watered down"

Dexron II or III is recommended, so u can use either one.

i have a manual tranny, so i dunno wat brands the other guys use. but i'd get something of better quality than wal-mart brand.

i may have a shop do it then. i can replace the top one easy, but the bottom one is another story. if i have to get to from under the car, that'll be tough, cuz i don't have access to a lift or jackstands.

alright, my accessory belts will need to be replaced soon. there's some cracking in both belts and i don't wanna be on the road when they reach their limit.
i know how to replace and adjust the upper belt that drives the A/C and alternator, but i can't figure out how to get the lower one off! my Haynes manual says to loosen an adjustment bolt on a slotted bracket. but it doesn't show a picture of where it is! i can see where the power steering pump is, but not where it mounts to the engine, or the 'slotted bracket' the manual speaks of.

if anyone has replaced and/or adjusted their drive belts, please tell me how. pictures would be more helpful.
thanks!!

on page 103 of the celica's manual (am i the only one who has one of these?) it says, quote,"OCTANE NUMBER

7A-FE engine - Select Research Octane Number 91 (Octane Rating 87) or higher.

5S-FE engine - Select Research Octane Number 91 (Octane Rating 87) or higher. For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number of 96 (Octane Rating 91) or higher is recommended."

hope that answers ur question. i used to run regular in the car, and didn't experience any pinging or knocking. then, i decided to fill up on premium to clean the engine a bit. the ONLY difference i noticed on that tank was a big increase in mileage. so i've been using premium ever since.

looks good, man.

haha, mine did the same thing when i first got it, but it only had 94k miles! now it has about 101k, but i never check to see if that one puff of smoke comes out. it def. means there's a bit of oil burning. after a while i noticed that the oil level was dropping little by little so i had to keep adding oil. got fed up with it and put half a quart of Lucas additive in the engine. oil level hasn't gone down since.

got a question, does that Restore stuff actually work? just sounds like alot of other additives and stuff that promise to do one thing or the other. but i know Lucas is good stuff so i'll stick to that for now.

okay, thanks guys.

i didn't kno you could just pull the rotor out and put the new one in. I had the timing checked back when i replaced the timing belt/water pump, etc. so i didn't wanna screw it up.

and 94GT, i DO put it in neutral and let up the clutch then try again. sometimes THAT doesn't even work. like i said, this only happens occassionally, so i dunno...

Okay, with the ignition system, i kno the cap is simple enuff to replace. But what about the rotor/distibutor? How would i go about swapping a new one in?
I have also heard that if they aren't adjusted propery, the timing will be WAY off.


I've noticed recently that it's extremely hard for me to shift in to first gear. It doesn't ALWAYS do that. It's just there's times when the light turns green and it refuses to go into first so i have to start off in 2nd.
I think the problem lies with my shift cables. Where would i get new ones from? and is it hard to replace them?


i appreciate any input, folks.
-Bobby Ray

NOOB question, but how would you 'flush' the tranny? that's not the same as draining it and then refilling, is it?

i have a question...


when getting the flywheel resurfaced, should i tell whoever's doing it what specifically needs to be done? You said it's a 2-layer flywheel, right?

or should i just get a new flywheel from Centerforce and not worry about it? but that would cost more...

ditto

yea, i kno. but what else would i use to RINSE it? just following the advice of some friends who do the same thing and have no problems.


thanx, man. i forgot about that. now i can get to school tomorrow.

i after i rinsed it, i blew all the remaining water out and dried it. i checked the electrical connections and stuff. some stuff was still damp so i waited for EVERYTHING to dry.

it's not like i took a pressure washer to it. i'll just have to remember the distributor next time.

.

okay, it was running fine earlier. I had cleaned my engine compartment with a degreaser. afterwards, i rinsed everything with the hose. now it won't start!!

the starter works fine. it cranks, but won't turn over.
please help.

why isn't the 4age and other motors covered in the info-section. just wondering, cuz it only talks about the 3sfe, 3sge and 3sgte motors...aside from the USDM ones.

can anybody find and give me the link to the website that tested AEM's bypass valve on the creator's NSX?
i keep searching, but can't find that link.

i need to see that article. there's a nonbeliever, and i need proof it works. don't want him to screw up his engine.
thanx.

borla.com has sound clip examples. i dunno of any other sites. anybody?

i think TheRockman got it right.

So, let's round off the celica's tank to 16gal. even. It's filled to the brim. At 72 degrees fahrenheit, the fuel in that tank will weigh exactly 100lbs.

And like he said, the weight will vary with the temperature.

i can't exactly tell, unless you're able to tell me the density of the fuel u use, it can vary with octane.

okay, that answers my sensor question.

i used Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, with bosch wires. So i don't think that's it.

platinum plugs have always been used in my engine. but aren't there people around here that use Denso iridium plugs?

i'm gonna reset my ecu, or watever, again like it says in the how-to section. i'll top off my fuel tank. and i'll tell you how many miles i get out of it this time.

thanx in advance for any input

~bob

check the "how-to" section. A tutorial was done about installing this exact system

~bob