6G Celicas Forums

What adjustment settings are you talking about? I had an ems 8860 on my 3sgte and had no problems other than initial wiring issues.

There's no need to go autronic and anyway they need a interface unit to read the toyota dizzy or u'll have to go with a custom crank angle sensor. In the long run the autronic offers no real advantage.

Early model camry v6's ~'90 have the same outer spline as st204 but later model camry ~'95(more common now) have larger splines. sorry had to clear that up. Having done the conversion twice now, I've learnt that people should be more specific with quotes and advice, cos it gets costly when you order wrong parts.

On a separate matter I think that people are using two left st185 shafts in their 204's cos I havent had any problems with my shafts popping out.
I have spoken to several wreckers in my area who swear that both shafts are same but they're clearly not. There is about an inch difference between the two. Anyway not trying to sidetrack this thread but thought it may explain the problem.

You are correct.

St205 left insulator and bracket. (Bracket is no longer available from toyota)

St205 rear bracket and insulator. Only way its going to work w/o going custom

Gt front and right side insulators+brackets. The fronts are actually indentical on both models but have different part numbers.

You can use your gt shifter cables but you'll need some thicker u clips to hold them into place. I'll post some pics of mine when I can be bothered.

When I last checked with toyota Aust. they wanted AU$600 for the 205 cable set.

It only takes a week to get driveline parts in from japan to Australia through toyota because they take priority over cosmetic or body parts, surely it must be the same to the U.S. They'll either tell you up to 3-4 weeks because a. they can be bothered getting them for you or b) just in case the japs are having one of those crazy holiday periods or strikes that go on for weeks at the shipping ports.

While on the topic of Axles I really want to clarify what people have actually used. I've tried using several setups but only one so far has worked. I would like everyone thats done the conversion to state what they've used.

Nothing is more time wasting or annoying than people giving rubbish suggestion or advice because they heard a friend may or may have not used this or that succesfully. Or just going by rumours.

It really needs to cleared up and put in a proper How-to.

I've got a '92 mr2 e153 with lsd, I'm using a middle (the w/ the carrier) shaft with a diameter of 31.3mm no circlip (I think all years are same), 185 outers and 92+ (Lsd) inner stub. I'm having concerns with the way the cvs are stretched atm and will try using a longer in the future.

(Because I only have experience with models available to Aust. and jap imports the following only refers to jdm mr2 e153s)

From all the time spent looking at the toyota Australia's parts finder program, the left inner stub changed from jan 92. They only have one part n# listed for later models there is no reference to lsd or non-lsd. Models produced dec 91 or earlier have the same part no as all camry v6 manuals boxes.


The early model inner left stub is the one with the circlip roughly 7mm from the end. This one is available in abundance in Aust. so most ignorant wreckers think there is only one type.

The Late model is the one with the circlip roughly 20mm from the end.


If anyone knows anymore or any better than this please let us all know so We can put an end to these axle questions

Camry outers won't work I tried to using them when looking for a longer shaft on my e153 converted st204. They have a thicker spline than the hub of the 204 with macpherson struts, superstruts must be the same. The camry sv20 shafts i tried were way too long anyway.

You might have to try using 205 outers, which from memory have different inner cv joints (they aren't a simple bolt together job like 185's or camry's) but if you split them they may mix'n'match together.

Another idea would be to use an early model camry shaft with both celica ends.

I could only view the top pic. Its the vacuum line tube bend for the idle control speed motor thats on the under side of the throttle body. One side goes to the isc and the other side goes to the turbo inlet pipe. Just buy some 10mm or so vac line and hook it up.

If you could check the link to the pics or if it starts working for me i'll let you know what the rest are. But i'm figuring that the bottom pic must be of a similar pipe which would be the other bend for the isc vac line

When it comes to standalone ECU's, you get what you pay for. I will probably get shot down by many for this but I watch so many people using cheap products, blowing their expensive engines to bits and wondering why.

If you've gone to the trouble of rebuilding an engine and want it to last, then use the best you can possibly afford. I recommend Motec, Autronic, Haltech, Electromotive or EMS and find a workshop that has a firm reputation with your particualr engine (3sgte I'm assuming). The above systems require no major modifications to your crank angle pickup or rocket science to get running well. You are only limited by your injectors and your tuners ability.

Think of a quality full standalone as the best mod you can do to your car. Don't skimp now, it will cost you dearly. Not only do these systems have great features they also have serious processors and circuitry to gurantee consistent control of your engine.

I'm using an EMS 8860 with 4 coils setup on a 3sgte. It was straight forward to install myself and has all the frills like the motec and autronic units. Its cost me around US$1500 with new ems brand ignitor and 4 coils (optional). I did the wiring myself and got the thing running pretty well with basic knowledge. Now i just have to get a proper tune ($300) and it'll be done.

If your consider what it cost compared to inferior products like meagsquirt or SDS than its definitely bang for your buck. I don't mean to dis anyone but i guess it all depends on what you can afford or prepared to sacrifice elsewhere.

If the system is tuned properly for a given setup than you will never have to worry about it blowing pistons or such due to running lean or ecu malfunctions. (within reasonable expectations ie boost press.)

Be warned, You get what you pay for!

Yes those are the rear 205 mount and bracket in red. Why would you make custom mounts when you can have the 205 mounts for same price as 204 gt's. They're available by special order.

IMO with custom mounts you're not guranteed that they'll be at the correct location and angle. I personally would steer away form this but of course its up to you. Many people have made their own with success but its something I'm not a fan off.

I had the same problem with the axle thing. Got sent out the outer but no inner stub. When they finally found a stub it was an early model. I have since worked out what I need.

You can have the stubs from toyota USA for a reasonable price around US$140-170 landed.

Ok, the mr2 bracket will not fit with the 205 insulator on the rear. I tried this. Nor 205 bracket with mr2 insulator. You definitely need both 205 rear bracket and insulator. Period. Please save yourself the money and time get the rear 205 parts now!

I gave up on trying 185 parts as I wasted about $400AUS on crossmember, brackets and mounts that did not work at all.

The gt/st insulator has different bolt locations to the mr2 bracket, you may find that one or twobolts will work but not all three.
What would be worth a try would be left gt tranny bracket with 205 insulator. I have a feeling it would be close. (that 205 bracket is no longer avialable from toyota)

Unfortunately i don't have pics of the rear bracket on my car atm but take my word it is exactly what you need.

I'll take some pics this weekend when I jack up the car to install a new left inner shaft stub.

The mr2 mount is very close to fitting but I found that I spread the bracket on the frame a further 1/3 inch to make it just sit. When i tried this mount with gt front and 205 rear mounts it was putting the engine to far to the left and didn't line up.

I think that these are the part no's 1237174440 and 1237274500 for the rear mount and bracket both are needed. The insulator is offest to the left and the bracket is different too. I may be wrong about the part no's as I have a heap of receipts but can't remember what's what now. So please verify with your local toyota spare parts dealer.


I tried all sorts of combos but after spending lots on the wrong parts I ended up using

Gt front insulator and bracket (identical to 205 but diffirent part no's)
205 rear insulator and bracket
205 left side insulator and tranny bracket (bracket no longer available from toyota but possibly same as rav4 part)
Gt RH bracket and insulator. (indentical to 205)


Good Luck Let me know how you go.

I have 18x8 46+ offset w/ 225/40r18 and have no problem what so ever. My car is lowered around 3.5inches too. I have stock guards and you can't see any gap between the tyre and guard from side on, but they never hit the guards, as your suspension compresses it developes more camber which lets the wheels clear the guards.

If a wheel doesn't hit the strut when straight and stationary it can never hit the strut as the distance is fixed between the two. They're directly bolted together by the hub. What you have to worry about is the guard clearance with wheels that have +ve offset higher than 48.

I'm planning to go a 235/40 on the rear to give it a tougher look soon.

You shouldn't have to remove the PS to get it to line up. When you lower the engine into the bay you have to tilt it to one side, so the tranny side is lower and sits beneath the left mount bracket on the frame, then bring the other side down to line up with the other mount. I had the same problem when pulling out my 5s.

I found that the mr2 driverside gearbox mount doesn't work with the braket on the frame. It looks like it does but it actually doesn't unfortunately. You may get away with using the GT tranny mount but I used a second hand 205 bracket on the box with new 205 rubber mount.

The gt front mount and bracket are fine as they're identical to the 205 parts but for some reason they have different part no's. You definitely need that 205 rear mount and bracket, to make it work.


Keep up the good work and don't listen to anyone who hasn't completed the swap themselves. Its cost me $$$ in bull crap advice and info.

celica3sgte, I wish I could take some pics of the mount right now but my car is at the workshop 60miles away. Take my word on it though. Cos i tried all sorts of other things like 185 x-member and 185 rear mounts with no luck.

I'll get my car back some time during the next week. I'll take some pics then if your not in a hurry you can see what I mean then, But yeah it is what you need. Here i found this pic on the forum.

You may just be able to work it out the offset on the bottom left mount in the pic.
205 mounts pic

Don't worry about the prices quoted there. He got majorly ripped and they were trd mounts anyway. 205 mounts cost exactly the same as 204's from toyota dealers here in oz so they shouldn't cost much more on special order in N.America.

Hope all this helps, I'll post pics of the mounts on my car as soon as i get it back.

It wasn't your turbo in the first place, it was crankcase vent vapour coming from the port on the top of the cam cover. Its a common problem among 3sgte's. Get an oil catch can, that should solve that problem.

How did you adjust the boost? With a controller/bleed valve or by playing around with actual wastegate. If you moved the actual wastegate you may have broken the diaphram or the circlip that holds the shaft to the flap may have come loose and fallen off. Check the shaft and flap on the back side close to the block.

celica3sgte the custom mount for the rear that you talking about is exactly what the 205 rear mount is. It is offset to the drivers side like required. remember 205 and 204 crossmembers are one and the same, 205 mounts are direct bolt on. Only difference between the two series is in the rear and drivers side mounts. ie the timing belt side mounts are the same. so it can't be out of whack.

Once you get the correct mounts loosen all of them slightly and then retension when all are lined up. This what i had to do, it now sits dead straight.
You can still get these mounts from toyota japan.

You definately need the 205 rear mount and bracket. The mount is offset to the left about an inch, exactly what's needed. This combo will work with the mounts ur already using.

As for the shifter cables, I made my own clips to fix them to the box.

I thought I'd put this link to this pdf below to help everyone considering brake conversions, see differences between disks sizes and offset for different gens.

This may clarify a few q's

Scroll down to the celica section on page two

Brake Rotor Specs

Unfortunately as its Australian it only has Gt specs listed.

Scroll down to the celica section on page two

It doesn't quite work like that Rjb23. The fuel system has a return line to the tank so air pockets eventually work themselves out of the system. When u unscrew the petrol cap you are releasing the system pressure.

It's more likely that the fuel pump is stuffed.

It only takes 20sec of running dry for a pump to be stuffed. That 1sec here and 1 sec there during the pump's life that will add up to about 20sec that will kill a pump.

Listen out for the pump priming when you turn the key to the on position. Other than that you squeeze the fuel line coming off the filter to the fuel rail and if its tight you have fuel pressure or if you can pinch the line making the inner walls touch, you have no pressure.

BTW push starting the car will not give you fuel pressure unfortunately. Only help if you have a flat battery.

I'm not a mechanic by trade but go on past experience so correct me if i'm wrong

Does it crank when you turn the key. The pump may be stuffed, get under the car and hit the petrol tank with a mallet or heavy spanner a few times while someone turns the key. That'll free a seized pump.

Are you sure? I tried a st185 x-member and the damn thing wasn't even close. I still have the thing and a rear 185 mount.

I used the orig cross-member (same part n# as 205) with 205 rear mount and bracket.

For the front and right i used gt mounts and bracket (same parts but different n#'s as 205)

For the left i used 205 mount and was lucky enough to have found a 205 bracket.

185 mounts would be fine, for right and left but not front and rear. I thoroughly went thru this on the parts finder program at the toyota dealer confriming this.

As long as the shaft diameter is right,the clip location can be modified.

I'm still curious as to how you used an st185 mount on the rear and crossmember if i read correctly.

It happened to me when i was just trying to trial fit the shafts.

I had a feeling it would happen as i was warned that there are many different shaft configs.

None of the wreckers in australia can confirm what size shaft or circlip location matches what year. In fact not even toyota were aware of the differnces.

Is the luck of the draw, with mr2 shafts. Maybe the mr2 gurus know but i'm tired of researching this matter, that's why i gave up and took the shaft to shop to modify.

Rjb23 i don't understand how you could be using a st185 mounnt on the rear, it doesn't fit period.

Please correct me if i'm wrong, as i really curios how this is possible.

Its got nothing to do with mounts, hubs or that type thing it. I've mentioned this before. The mr2 inner shafts come in many diffent configs. I had this same prob.

The circlip on the end can be various lenghts from the end. The rumour (not comfirmed 100%) that it can be 5mm or 12mm from the end. The circlip must not be sitting correctly.

If you can pop the shaft in and their is still a gap and it won't go any further than the clip is too close to the end of the shaft.

Try to find another shaft but if you can't you'll hace to cut a groove in it to put the circlip in the right spot like i had to do.

I originally was going to use a electric water pump for my WTA i/C but i ditched the cooler and used a FMIC. I then decided to use the pump for its proper use(Engine). The Davies, Craig electric water pump, pumps 80l/min and can run constant or switched by a thermo sensor. It has the correct 32mm fittings to fit the original lines. All you have to do is remove the impeller fins of the original pump and the thernostat. It works great, at the moment i'm playing with the trigger of my EMS 8860 ecu to control the temp precisely.

This pump can give you a few extra horses cos it removes the resistance from the timing belt.

You probably won't have a clue what i'm talking about or what it looks like but try this mob in Oz that have dealers in the US


http://www.daviescraig.com.au

Not sure if you really mean st202 because that was a JDM RHD only 6th gen
I terms of engine mounts, st204 and st202 use the same tranny and mounts.

All st20#'s have the same north-south cross member, only difference being with the suspension cross member having differences due to four wheel steering and superstrut suspension with each model spec.

Basically in summary

Mounts
RH Side= Any St200 series
Left Side= St205 bracket# and Insulator
Rear= St205 bracket and insulator
Front= st205 bracket and any st200 series insulator

#note bracket is no longer available in Australia perhaps worldwide. I'll try to use/modify the mr2 bracket i already have.

Axles= St185 outer shafts w/ mr2 inner shafts w/ matching splines. The half shaft with carrier from mr2 is also required

If using an Mr2 e153 specific year does not necesarily mean certain diameter spline. Also note that the circlip on the end is also a variable. It can either be 5mm or 12mm from the end.
It is very important to get the driveshafts that go with the tranny at the same time to make sure you are getting the correct shafts.

Shift cables
Any St200 series cables can be modified to be clip to the tranny and the cables work perfectly once secured.

Please correct me if I am wrong as I am about to pull my hair out trying to figure out a working combo.