6G Celicas Forums

The lights are gone. I believe I will be able to sell this as a running car. I will probably just start another thread with some of my extra parts once I get them gathered up. For now my focus is going to be selling the car. Thanks for all the support!

My lows used H1s and my highs used whatever my stock lights used before i switched them.

Interesting, i didn't know those were even a thing. I made mine out of plexiglass. Good luck!

So my plan is to sell the headlights, the tails if anyone even wants them, 3 gauge pod. Then try to sell the car as a whole locally. There has been a little interest in parts, but not much, so i want to see if anyone will just take the whole thing off my hands first.

As far as the headlights, my goal is to end up with an old set and $300 after shipping. If this is not reasonable feel free to reset my expectations. From what i remember paying for these, i think its a good deal.

Taillights - I looked closer, and it appears the far tab on each taillight may have been broken. I need to crawl through the car to check it out as im nervous that the hatch wont shut again once opened. If anyone is interested in these let me know and i will check them out in more detail.

I've got one of the 3 gauge pods that doggy made. I did drill 2 holes in mine to keep it on the dash, as on really hot summer days mine would fly off the dash occasionally. I believe these were $150 new, id sell mine for $50 + shipping

Im going to post it locally for 1k, If it doesnt sell and i part it out, i will sell anything. I imagine shipping on the bumper would be pretty high, if your willing to pay the shipping, then i dont mind.

It did work, i haven't tested it since the wreck.

My car was recently used as someones brakes. My insurance has totaled the car because of the damage.







I am not 100 percent sure if i want to part it out or sell as a whole at this time. I was hoping i might be able to gauge some interest in parts.

The car was locked, so i didnt get any interior shots. Ill work on those later.

For now, i know i would like to swap headlights + cash with someone to get my headlights back to stock. If anyone is interested in that let me know.

The taillights both have some damage, but i would sell those if someone wanted them because i still have the original tails. one of them has a crack in the plastic, but one is only chipped on a corner.

Well, just fixed the mounts. The rear mount was really bad. The issue remains in 4th gear. It takes it just a little longer to happen, but its still doing it.

That ground goes to the motor hook thing right behind the alternator, i believe they already figured that out though.

No grinding at all when shifting. i was just under the car a minute ago, and the rear mount insert is gone completely. the rubber looks like it may have a crack in it, but its hard to tell until i can pull it. I went ahead and ordered another set of poly inserts, and i may pick up another rear mount. Supposedly the inserts can be used regardless of the rubber condition, but im not sure i like that idea.

I am crossing my fingers that all the items i listed as possible issues worked together to destroy that rear mount, and thats all i need to fix. I will try to follow up this weekend when i have time to work on it. hopefully i get my inserts by then. Until then i will keep checking here for other responses, and just avoid using 4th gear for now.

I have a very limited knowledge of transmissions and was hoping someone here might be able to diagnose my problem or tell me what to check.

Lately when accelerating in 4th gear, the shifter will pop into neutral.
3rd gear has always pushed itself towards neutral while accelerating, but never actually went into neutral.

In 3rd or 4th gear i can hold pressure on the shift knob and feel it pull towards neutral when accelerating, then if i release the throttle, it goes back fully into gear.

Recent car changes:
Teaching daughter to drive a manual. there have been some rough clutch engagements lately.
I recently bottomed out on a speed hump
my front motor mount insert has deteriorated (haven't checked the rear mount, i had installed kirkasaurus mounts years ago)

Im hoping maybe i just need to adjust the slack on a cable somewhere.

Any thoughts?

Mine does this, and i didnt do anything special... I think my headunit just had an antenna wire that only powers when the radio is in use. If your head unit doesnt have that, then there is no automatic way.My head unit is an alpine, but its rather old at this point.

Looking for both fans, with shrouds etc shipped to 37404, pm with price.

Thanks

Thanks guys, i knew i wasnt going crazy! The parts department guy didnt believe me, so i was starting to question myself.

My car had two cooling fans, but i can only find one online. am i loosing my mind? did someone add another fan to my car? It looked stock I went aftermarket and its not working for me, so im trying to go back to stock, but i no longer have my fans or fan shrouds and the dinky after market ones are not working. Any information or even part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

97 celica GT

With a temperature gauge i placed next to the stock sensor.

If anyone was wondering, cutting the wires will set the fans to on all the time. Im sure this isnt good for some reason, so i will order a new temperature switch and get it going normal again.

I installed a new radiator and fans. The fans will not kick on automatically anymore. i tested them straight from the battery and they work fine. There is a sensor of some type in the bottom of the radiator, im guessing this is the temperature switcth to kick on the fans since its running to some relays that run to the fans. if i cut the wires to the sensor and twist them together will this cause my fans to run all the time? any thoughts on troubleshooting this? there wasnt much slack for the sensor wires, so i think i may have broken one when it pulled tight.

Thanks

I just put the fan shrouds back in, its too cold to really test it right now. i have one more question. i switched out my fans, can i just wire those up to the existing wiring with no issues? electrical stuff confuses me sometimes. it would seem the fans would pull the amount they need and be just fine.

Thanks

Its a godspeed one. the water temp may be slightly higher, its hard to tell on the stock gauge.

My stock radiator cracked at the top. i got a good deal on an aluminum radiator with slim fans and it went in great.
since the installation my water temp has been fine, but my oil temp has been higher than usual. its usually 180-190 ish. now its hitting 230.
is there something i could have knocked loose to cause this?
I did not move the shrouds over to the new radiator because i didn't think they would fit. is this causing bad air flow? is there an oil cooler or something that may not be getting good air flow now?

Thanks for any help.

I'm looking for a part that goes with the automatic door locks. there is a blue tab that connects into a white plastic piece in the door. the metal rod swivels on this part to lock and unlock the door. do you have the white and blue plastic pieces for the left door? thanks

replaced starter and its working great now.

The starter gear was not retracting, so i guess it was constantly dragging the engine.

Learned so much finding this problem.

Thanks for everyone's help.

ok, so had my battery tested and its good.

I put the fully charged battery in my car and tested it for draw.

im not really sure what the reading on the meter means, but i put it on the 10a setting and it showed .10.

i found that my main power run to the amps was pulling .06 and my dome fuse was pulling .02

im not sure what this is a measurement of, but it killed my battery in about an hour.

i tested the remote wire with a test light and it did not light up.

im going to work on this again tomorrow, any thoughts between now and then are welcome.

Thanks

Edit:

Did more work today, got the draw down to .02, which i believe is 20 milliamps, which should be fine.

still didnt help, so im just going to replace the started and hope a bad starter is draining my battery.

The alternator is increasing the voltage when it runs, so I assume it's fine since it's a rebuilt one. The battery is being tested now. I noticed the voltage shows 12.5 on my gauge after driving and stopping the engine. Overnight it drops to 11.5 volts. So my next step is to check the draw and pull fuses. It just seems weird all this started with my new alternator. Is it possible if the alt belt is too tight the starter will have trouble turning over the engine?