6G Celicas Forums

Feel a bit sick... My forged fresh built engines knocked since about 500 miles into the break in. Put it down to the solid engine mounts Think i know why all of a sudden! I used ACL race series bearings throughout, would this help save the bottom end or would you guys think its game over? When i say knock, it s a gentle one at tickover, oils been changed every 100 miles or so and i also slick 50'd it after break in. Its never been above 4k since i built her (still mapping her). I'm also running high lift cams so its been harder to notice as they are more "tap happy". Gonna fit the OEM pulley this week n hopefully it should improve... Think I need a beer : $

Guys can't thank you all enough for the info and help. Just bought a OEM one off fleabay. Running solid engine mounts with forged internals and tap happy hks cams and think the vibrations just too much for the crank without the harmonic balancer. Fingers crossed this should help with the crankseal oil leak. Given up tryin to get the crank gear off (just slid on when I built the engine?!?) So kinda half arsed it and tigersealed up the outside of the seal and reverted back to the stock balancer. Loving the 6g forum btw. You guys all RULE. Thanks again : )

Thanks for all your help guys. Really appreciate your replys and ideas. Thinking I'm gonna have to grind it off like mi645 said. Tried heating it, freezing it, soaking it and every trick in the book. It's all lined up, just won't shift! Gonna have another crack at it today before work. Thanks again chaps : )

Thanks Smay' gonna look for one asap. I'd rather lose 1 bhp than a little of oil a week. How does it affect the oil pump though its just powered by the cam belt? Thanks for your help :-)

Hey Smay, think your talking about the drive pulley/harmonic balancer pulley. The pinion behind for the cambelt/waterpump/oilpump/camshafts is the one that's stuck solid. It's not got any holes and nothing to grip onto. Can't get behind to pull it mate.

Can't get behind it as its flush against the oil pump. Just tried to lock an exhaust clamp round it the tease it off with a 3 leg puller and a borrowed blow torch. Clamp came off before the pinion would even budge. It's also been soaked in wd40 overnight. What gives?!?

Hey all, doing my crank seal this weekend, pulled the crank pulley easy enough with a 3 leg puller but now completely stuck on the cam belt pinion... Can't get behind it to pull and theres nothing on it to grip onto... Any ideas anyone? Don't have a blowtorch or freeze spray till I get paid : $

Thanks a lot

Chris

Thanks Bezik777. That's good to know. Will give it another try after I've changed the seal and see what happens. Cheers. Chris.

PS struggling to get the crank pinion gear off now! Won't budge and can't get behind it to pull it... apart from a blow torch and a screw driver do you have and tips for removal? Thanks again.

Hey all, thinking about binning my lightweight alloy crankshaft pulley for the stock iron harmonically balanced pulley as my new builds got a crank seal leak and I'm thinking this might have somethin to do with it???

Is anybody running an alloy one without any probs? Got it from Fensport so I thought it would be the business but can't decide whether to revert back to OEM tommorow while I have it off.

Any experience or thoughts on them would be muchly appreciated : )

Thanks

Chris

Thanks so much for all your help all. Have skimmed the shim by 0.10mm to put it back in the middle of the spec range. Wishing I'd used supertech valve seats now instead of OEM as the JUN springs/valves and tap happy cams must have put a lot of pressure on the valve seats. Highest my egt's reach is 1050f. Might try advancing my cams to run a bit cooler.

I used a Cosmetic 1.6mm HG, a friend of mind after the build said basically they are crap for st205s/185s because they are missing some of the coolant waterway holes (it all seemed to line up at the time ok?!? - St185 block with st205 heat and hg).. Is this true? Maybe to blame for the valve seat wear?

Many thanks again everyone for your info/thoughts.

Chris

Hey all, just wondered please if someone could help me get my head round this...

After rebuilding my st205 head and working to Toyota spec (0.15mm - 0.25mm inlet / 0.25mm - 0.35mm) all of a sudden the head developed a loud knocking and a leak at the crank seal... After checking all of clearances (forged rebuilds now done 2000 miles) no1 cylinder exhaust valve nearest the cam pulley has shrunk to 0.20mm!!!. After turning the crank by hand it gets harder to turn as this valves opening...

I rebuilt the head with JUN valves and springs and HKS 256 cams. All was in spec after the rebuild. Thought clearances opened up as the engine broke in not got tighter! The engine was stone cold (left overnight) when I checked. The head was also proffionally rebuilt...

Could this be a worn valve seat possibly? Any thoughts/advice or previous experances pike this would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Chris : )

Wish I could, only one I've seen around, is £800 on eBay. Managed to get a ct20b second hand for 100 but is gonna be a pain to refit and is a step backwards if I do in terms of what I wanted to build...

Only prob I've had so far on the stock ecu is that I'm runnining lean just before spool up. No hesitation or anything just in the 14s on my wideband instead of 13s where it should be. Listened to your advice and have not been above 4 psi...

Still not managed to the part for my fcon cos hks won't help my tuner. My tuners said he CAN fix it but might be a week, might be 6 months...

Fitted a gm temp sensor I had spare to try and add fuel. Any ideas for dropping afr whilst in closed loop?

Thanks for all your help : )

Sorry ment iat sensor. This predictive text lark is a pain in the pipes : )p

Thanks for both your paleoreplays guys, your wisdoms appreciated. Think I'm gonna take Delusionz advice and play it safe till I can get my fcon fixed (hks won't sell the part I need to my tuner).

Can't see it running lean at 8 psi even tho there's more flow because I'm running a Waldron, swirl pot, Bosch 044, twin fed rail @ 4 bar on a sard for on the stock 550s (650s @4bar). Thinking I could use the GM ist sensor I have spare in the garage that reads colder than the own Toyota sensor to compensate for the MAP sensor/extra flow? It reads roughly 20 degrees lower so would add more fuel at the same pressure?

What's the biggest turbo any of you guys have ever run first hand on the stock ecu?

Could be months till the ecus fixed and will HAVE to use the car unfortunately. Hoping to get a replacement F con S next month so fingers crossed this should be sorted soon. Please keep your thoughts coming, I really appreciate it.

Thanks

Chris

Hi All,

Just wondered if Amy of you guys could please shed some light on my problem...

I have a forged st205 and was running a hks f con v pro with sard 800s and a gt3082r turbo. My F con has died!!! Had to refit the stock 550 injectors (running at 4 bar (closer to 650s) on the STOCK. ecu. Ext WG spring is only set @ 8 psi.

Question:

Has anyone ever tried this before? (Read TRDGT4 tried it but doesn't say what GT30 turbo in the old thread)

Basic engine wpec

St185 bottom end, 8.2CR, Forged pistons and rods, ACL race series everything, ARP everything, hks 256 cams, cosmetic 1.5mm hg, Kevlar cambelt, meth ink, JUN valvetrain, FMIC, 3 inch decay as exh etc etc..

If anyone could please advise me is be really grateful. Seems to drive fine off boost (wideband between 14-15), tips in a bit lean, just scared to boost!!!!!

Thanks in advance

Chris