6G Celicas Forums

Going to sum this post up as well: hopefully this will help someone in the future.

The code reader I rented had an internal short. This blew an OBD fuse on the celi. This fuse is located under the PASSENGER kick panel (there is like only 1 or 2 fuses over there).

replace fuse, complain to the place of the shotty code reader, swap out for better one, read codes

-Kyle

Well just to sum this post up, <sorry this is way late>
I did replace the thermostat, and tried a spare temp sensor as well.
Both o2 sensors appeared to be working fine... as well as the wiring.

The problem was some short in the wiring harness, when the car was warm and running a short would develop between the signal wire on the primary o2 sensor and ground..(assuming on the shielding) . so when checking the o2 sensor wiring (check for proper ground, proper wiring of the signal wire to the ecu, also check connectivity of the signal wire to ground[should be none]) Mine was intermittently shorting on ground, and luckily I was able to find it one of the times i was testing!

I proofed this fix by running jumper wires directly from the sensor to the ecu (but if it is like my case, make sure you clip the original sensor wire after your splice by the ecu, so that it will not keep grounding the signal)

After this setup was working for a week, it was fully installed. Thanks for the help.

I have some ECU's hangin around the garage if anyone needs em!

-Kyle

Selling the Celica

See Craigslist here.

Craigslist Ad (Milwaukee)

Email the craigslist ad, or PM me

wallet?

As the title says, I am looking for the lower cusion/ cover for my 97 celica drivers side.
too much drivin me thinks



IMG_3712 by kneubsjr, on Flickr

cloth interior? if so I am looking for driver seat lower cusion and cover
pm me.

Do you have the drivers seat, lower cusion and cover?
pm me!

Wanted to fix my codes, and rented a code reader.
reader will not power up when connected in the celi, I tryed it in another car and the reader is good.
any help?

there is only 4 wires going to the port.

Ok so update, gotta ecu (but A/T) and hooked it up, same code P0125, along with some others for the shift interlock solenoid (A/T)

so I'm assuming that I can not have 2 bad Ecu's?

do you think that it could be from the fact that the engine is a 4afe and the ecu 7afe? (but i got it to pass emissions 2 yrs ago like this)

I added a remote start to my car, installed a bypass to the clutch switch(had an aux power that could be used for that) and installed a switch on the side of my shifter stand, that is triggered when I am in 1st or 2nd. and use that as a remote starter defeat. Has come in handy, and yes I have seen my car go for some lurching b4 i made that switch. I can post pictures l8r if wanted, I have the whole center counsole exposed already for other problems.

It's a circlip, so it will need a little motivation to move. just get a prybar under it, or both sides ( I believe hats how i did it last) Might want to drain your tranny fluid first.

mmk I know Im goin on Sat. Im also planning on doing one final trial tonight, possibly tring to see if routing the o2 grnd another way @ the ecu will help??

I had mine bypassed; untill i had to engine swap
double male barb and 2 hose clamps

Celi made it though like 2 winters here in WI, sub zero quite a bit; I wouldn't worry about it too much.

I had 4 codes, but got it down to 1.
P0125, insufficient coolant temp for closed loop fuel trim

So far I have new thermostat, new ECT.
When checking the o2 sensor (upstream), if it is unplugged and I check the voltage between the leads, My values are within range 0-1volt. so thats good.
When I hook the connector back together, and backprobe to get a voltage between the leads, i get a constant .5 milivolt....

I checked the wiring between the conectors and the diagnostics box, and from the connector to the ecu, to see if I had a low resistance > yes
Then I thought that maybe a wire is corroded or something that it cant handle the ammount of power through it... so I wired a direct line from the sensor output to just before the ecu. but same.

(for reference I also had a code for P0141 which is a faulty downstream o2 heater circuit, but i just hot wired some resistors to put the ecu at rest; at least for emissions)

Any help would be appreciated.

Reverse termination can really screw up the battery too, well.... u were jumping it... probably bad neways. lol Just start pullin and replacing all the fuses u see

Remember proper way to jump a battery...
:::connect red on positive of good car, connect other red on positive on dead car. Connect black on negative on good car, then finally connect the other black one on a ground of the dead car, preferably the engine (NOT THE NEG BATTERY POST on the dead battery):::



if you dont belive me, i used to work for a car battery company, if your levels are low, the immediate voltage will jump the straps and create an explosion.

HEY MAN are you rolling your car around without the halfshafts in the axel hubs? The bearing NEEDS the halfshaft in there for support; the weight will crush your bearing. they will need to be replaced soon if not . Ive seen it happen more than once. So hack up 2 old ones and shove em in there if you are going to put the cars weight on the front tires. Thought you should know!!!!

Kyle

I want to participate in the local races, and would hopefully find: manual, dont care about bodywork, strong engine and transmission. Not saying that i particularily want to see a celica get sacrificed to the track wipeouts but ive been looking all over for other cars too, thought id give it a try?

ohh and doesent need to be a celica by all means, anything cheap would do.

-kyle

Sorry guys college is expensive, and i need the money more than the car...

i'm selling my 1997 celica hatchback st, manual. It has exhaust and a motor swap(from an auto st 1.8) as of 4/2007.
The car has a little over 195,000 on chassis, and only 98,000 on motor; i put 1,500 on motor.
It has all new fluids, brake, clutch, antifreeze/coolant, oil. The battery is new as of 2/2007. The alternator is a refurbished one as of 4/2007. It only has 1/8 worn down tires.
i will post pics soon. I am asking $2,800

wow, i hope you don't fall for any of these fake things, so many people look 4 the cheap h/p, if you find anything that says its a "piggy bank" chip, or intake chip, basicly it is a resistor that plugs into your intake temp prope, i got this friendly advice from someone once, find your library (or at least this is where i got my info) and find the big fatty technical book for your car, look for the ohlm resistance for the temperature on the intake temp probe, and look for something relatively cold, i thought 30 degrees would be good, then look over on the graph and match the ohlm resistance up, when you know how much reisitance you need, then head over to radio shack, and pick up the resistor,....cheap.... and then just unplug your probe, and stick the ends of the reisitor in both sides, its basicly telling your computer that it is recieving cold air, thus improving your timing curve, i did this myself, not liek i dynoed it or anything, but i think my friend did , and i got some gains... and i guess some gains, no matter how much is good, since it costs less than a Big Mac

catch me flyen

[font=Tahoma]so is your car still idling high?, because i have had this problem b4, check the little throttle stop thing that will stop your throttle from chokin itself out, if that is a little out, it will give you the symtoms of it idling high, and decelling slowly, if its not that, have a person turn on the car, then cover the whole throttle body, with your palm of your hand, if it still runs, you have a leek somewhere. one one car i had redone the seals, the throttle body seal was slightly different from top to bottom, i had it upsidedown, and it had a small leak, it will idle high and rev down slowly, it also stayed running with the hand over the throttle body. something to think about

i wish i was "flyen"