6G Celicas Forums

*rushes online to book a ticket to PHL*

^

I would greatly appreciate the gesture.

Yeah, I've only been able to find verts, let alone ones with ABS. But according to Toyota, there are different part numbers for DISC and DRUM, so I'm not sure if that difference actually exists. I guess there won't be holes for disc brakes to be bolted through?

I went ahead and snagged one from my local yard, but I had to saw through a lot of metal in order to take it home. The bolt is still seized in there and will try some heat and a press, but I honestly don't think I'm going to have much luck.

PM'ed

^

Anti-seize is my best friend right now.

Dearest 6GC,

I'm on a mission to remove as much rust from my '99 as possible. The front end of my car has been completed, sans the inner tie rods. From the crossmember to the knuckles and everything in between, below the engine of my '99 looks immaculate. I found a salvaged vehicle at one of my local junkyards today with ABS whose control arm bolts for the rear knuckle weren't seized to the knuckles, but alas, the driver's side was completely destroyed. Does anybody have one laying around or could check their local junkyard for one? This would mean so much to me if I could finally stop thinking about the body and finally move onto what I am dreading the most: the engine bay.

EDIT: With disc brakes. Not sure if there's actually a difference between the knuckle with disc or drum.

Thank you,

MAG

I'm in the middle of doing a lot of work and am really excited to finally put things back together, but am second guessing which bolts go where.

I believe am correct to switch the red and green bolts as the red are the ones with the washers. Are orange all supposed to be the same size? 19mm about 1.5" long? And with white, I have this other set but with different grade markings.

Stay tuned for a project thread!

Any knowledge as to a difference in the throttle body with the '94-'95 engine and the '96-'99 engine?

Bonzai,

I'm in San Diego and have a face lift bumper if they need one to use. And of course am in for this group order. Looking forward to this, if and when it happens.

PM me if you need more info.

$100 for both. Also sent a PM.

They are not, unfortunately. As you can see from the picture of the side skirts, they're these two piece, only come in black, kind of things.

I might actually have a pair sitting around back in PA. What color are you looking for? Is white okay? And if you're in Canada, that's much closer to you than TX or CA.

I got Celica #5! Eight hours later, she's as naked as a newborn baby.

<a href="http://imgur.com/53VhnCG"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/53VhnCG.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Parting her out; made a post. Give it a look if you're looking for vert parts for a pre-lift 2.2L.

I do, just as long as you're looking for the vert side skirts.

I have a lot of parts available, but only have a day or two remaining to remove what people need. PM me or text me at 512.431.6487 for a more immediate response. There\'s also no problem with replying to the thread as it will help people discern whether or not the part they are looking for is still available. I\'m currently in Austin, TX but will be driving to California within the next day.

Parts currently unavailable:

-- M/T Cruise Control
-- All exhaust piping, excluding the manifold

Everything else is up for grabs. If it requires the engine to be removed to get to, I unfortunately cannot get that to you as I don\'t have access to an engine hoist and have limited time. Here are pictures of what has been removed, and will be adding more as the day goes on. More pictures upon request of course.

Complete front pre-lift bumper // Great condition, minor scratches, no broken tabs:


Complete rear bumper // Great condition, minor scratches, no broken tabs:


NA rear license plate bezel // Great condition, nothing broken:


Driver's side door panel // Good condition, some indentations, but no tears:


*NOTE* The passenger side panel is not in the best condition. Still no tears, but I wouldn't buy it. If you're still interested, I can send you a picture.

Driver and passenger rear plastics // Great condition, minor scratches:


Rear black leather seats // Great condition, some rust beneath on frame, no tears:


OEM convertible side skirts // Great condition, no broken tabs:


Non-projector low beams // Passenger side = great | Driver\'s side = mediocre


**NOTE** I do have the high beams. Also non-projector, also great:mediocre (pass:drive).

Convertible front seat belt set:


Convertible rear seat belt set:


Black fuel door // PERFECT CONDITION:


Center console armrest plastic // Great condition, just dirty:


Convertible center console plastics (top and bottom) // Great condition, no broken tabs, working switches:


Door controls set:


Driver\'s side coupe/vert tail light w/ harness // Great condition and clear:


Passenger side coupe/vert tail light w/ harness // Mediocre condition, foggy, seal at top is breaking:


Black passenger side fender // Great condition, minor scrape and rust in the bottom right:


Black driver's side fender (processing):


Pre-lift turn signal set // Great condition, no cracking:


Front seat black leather headrests // Great condition, no tears:

I need to replace the exhaust piping of my car. The catalytic converter has completely separated from the intermediate pipe, and I can see it breaking off of the front pipe any time now.

**QUESTION**
Can I snag the exhaust from a 2.2L convertible and plug it right into my 2.2L hatchback?

I'm looking to replace these parts:
-Front Pipe (17410-7A240)
-Intermediate Pipe (17420-74750)

I assume that I'm correct and that I CAN plug-n-play these parts. I just don't want to go and buy a parts car (5th 6GC?!) and realize that I can't actually use what I need.

I'll probably buy these off you in the next coming months if you'll still have them for sale. I'll also be living in Southern California, finally, so I could just pick them up off of you. I'll stay in touch!

Thank you for all the feedback, fam. I went and checked all my fluids again and here's where I'm at:

**NOTE** I use Toyota RED Coolant and refilled with mostly all coolant (~1L) when I last replenished the radiator.

--Engine Oil: Sexy. Levels are higher than expected, especially with the known oil leak. After driving 2k miles, I couldn't ask for much else. No signs of red coloration.
--Transmission Fluid (AT): Decent. Dirtier than the engine oil, but not low (if anything, there's too much) and no signs of red coloration.
--Radiator Coolant: Good. After driving 1hr48mins at 60-65mph, I can actually see fluids when removing the radiator cap. No signs of leakage anywhere from the radiator and hoses.

Question: Would you be okay driving 500mi and replenishing your radiator as Tigawoods mentioned? I'm definitely going to do a coolant system flush and possibly brand new AT fluid, but now I'm thinking I can just wait to replace the radiator.

Again, thank you.

Not any that I can see. *thumbs up*



It was $600 for only the radiator. Total cost for what they originally going to do was $2,000. They reduced it to $1,500 for replacing the radiator hoses, radiator cap, thermostat, radiator, and system flush.

First thing's first: Thank you. This website has given me everything that I have ever needed when it comes to my 6GC (of which I've unfortunately, or fortunately!, owned four of).

Secondly, if you're available and in the area, your help could potentially be the most valuable! Seeing problems in person make solving them nearly trivial.

Thirdly, and lastly, my situation:

**NOTE** I've had an "issue" with my car during startup; engine SOMETIMES runs at low RPMs (100-200) until put in drive and accelerated quickly. Sounds like the engine can't breath and the throttle plate isn't opening fully. Also aware of small oil leak; levels still good after driving 2,000 miles.

Roughly three hundred (300) miles ago, I pulled up to a gas station in Mississippi and found myself waiting a moment as all the pumps were currently in use. I decided to put my vehicle in park, as well as turn off the A/C, and suddenly my car turned off. Tried to start her up again instantaneously after, but to no avail. Went inside, bought some gas, filled her up, and waited a moment. When I checked underneath my car, some water was dripping from around the front passenger axle, but no other sorts of fluids. Three hundred miles later, got to New Orleans and took a look at my engine. I was able to diagnose that there was a problem with my radiator as one, I had oil in my coolant, and two, my coolant levels had to be replenished (1L per 120mi). I took her to a local mechanic that I was referred to and their diagnosis and solution was "needs a radiator, thermostat, cooling hoses and system flush." All good there, but when it came to how much it all was going to cost, I questioned the over $600.00 that I was going to be charged for JUST the radiator (excluding labor and other necessary replacements). So now I'm here asking you all for some advice/help.

My next destination is Austin, TX (500 miles away) and there I can actually work on my car with my father, another self-taught mechanic, and give her some real TLC. My plan was to order some OEM parts from PartzNet, flush the system with distilled water, install a new radiator, cap, hoses and thermostat, then drive to Austin. Suggestions? Comments or concerns? What would YOU do in this scenario?

I have what you're looking for and am located in Philly. I'll PM you.

-MAG

http://reading.craigslist.org/pts/5024130797.html

$500

PM'd

Thanks.

PM'd

Thanks,

Marco

PM sent.

INCREDIBLY interested.

Thank you.