6G Celicas Forums

I have them lol

I used steelstik and just sanded it down smooth after. Never broke again. Even shaped new sections of plastic that chipped/broke off And sanded it down and painted to make it look just like the plastic too. Those haven't broke either

The buckles look the same, but the 96-99 seatbelt won't clip into the 94 and 95 buckles.

I got one, just gotta find it. Pm me

Here's another picture with the halos on. It's got 8000k halos that are suppose to run st 14v but it only had a resistor protecting the halos. So I decided to regulate the voltage down to 12v so it's about 6000k now. They're really bright so my phone camera doesn't really catch it well, but here it is:)

If anyone has questions on the bixenon projector retrofit into the high beams just let me know.

Snapped a quick pic of my car without the lights on... They're way to bright for my phone camera to catch anything. Lol as promised full quad projector retrofit with halos, yes high beams are bi xenon


Yes those are facelift turn signals on a pre facelift because I couldn't find my pre facelift turn signals anywhere... I gotta check a junk yard. Unless someone's selling clear ones? Or amber ones for cheap! I'm ripping them apart to put in an LED strip and some other goodies in. So it's for a good cause

So all that would be required is plugging in the st215 harness to the MS and then a tune?
If so I'm interested. Lol

Today I got my mini h1 bixenon projectors in. Got a second set of HID bulbs and ballasts in. Made clear lenses for the high beams. Installed the projectors to the high beam housing....

Quad projectors here I come

Still waiting on the wire harness for the second set of headlights. Also waiting on more LED halos to come in.

I'll add some pictures when I finish the high beams. And then I'll add pictures when I install them.

The insulators up front on the top are about 1/3" thick so I'm hoping removing them doesn't make the ride suck to much, I might try thinner insulators like the ones that just slide on

Alright thanks for the info, I think I'll just stick to my lowering springs and struts. They're pretty comfortable and then stiffen up into corners. I got the ST lowering springs and am very satisfied, just wish it dropped a bit more up front. They're supposed to drop 1.5-1.6 inches but it's only lowered about 1.2 up front and it's at the 1.6 in the back. Anyone know if removing the spring insulators is dangerous? If I remove the one on the top and bottom up front it should drop it almost perfectly where I need it

They seem pretty good, they're around 700 for the set on the Godspeed website but $630 on Amazon.
Want to know from someone who has installed them on their 6gc or on another car (monoSS)
Bounce vs stock
Body Roll vs stock
How much unavoidable potholes make you cringe when hitting them vs stock
And build quality


Thanks!:)

The tire will not fit. The rim is about 18" at the lip, and the tire won't fit over that. If it does, part of the bead will be overstretched and probably not seal. Not to mention it will not balance easily



To run the gt86s wheels you need at least a 5-10mm spacer up front to clear the brake calipers which (at 10mm) is just barely enough to run the 235s. 225s will just barely clear as well with a 5mm spacer.

If the dimmer knob isn't plugged in, the lights won't light up, if that was it let me know lol

The plastic the headlights are made of won't weld well for plastic welding. It's kind of powdery and brittle due to age. So it'll break easily even after welding. I tried it. JB weld doesn't stick, I tried it multiple times. Steelstik was a bit better, but will still break off due to the type of plastic and it's brittleness.

Only way is using a few of the above mention methods plus some other stuff. bend metal to the same shape as the tab. Melt the plastic where it mounts to a smooth surface. Sand the surface so it's rough. CLEAN THAT AREA WITH ACETONE AFTER SANDING. Steel stick that tab you made to the spot. And recreate the tab with steelstik. Drill the holewhere it's needed.

IF you want some cheap power for the time being. Nitrous. If its legal.

The 7a can take the extra shot of power

Run a 75 wet shot and 93+octane gas (or 91 and octane booster if you can't find 93) and retard the timing a bit a few degrees maybe. Again only do this if you plan on swapping, in . Most work you'll have to do is shave out all the little areas that strengthen the intake manifold on the bottom and top, while you're in there polish the whole thing don't need to do the head unless you plan on taking that out too, the gains will be minimal without cams for a port and polish. Main reason for grinding the intake manifold is so you don't get a lot of fuel puddles in there from the wet shot. If you do it right you won't have a problem with it though. Install a CAI with 2.5" piping. install a 7afe exhaust header from eBay, have someone redo the welds (if you can't) because they WILL blow if you don't and you run nitrous. but then gut the cat (or install a high flow cat) and single 2.5inch from the header back (whichever is easier to find in your location) install a resonator in the stock location and then if you want you can pay to have someone redo the exhaust over the axle with mandrel bent piping and flanges and then install a muffler. Or you can use flex piping, really won't make much of a difference with the flow that you'll have.

running nitrous without a header and exhaust will increase temps A LOT and the exhaust won't get all the exhaust gases out fast enough. were talking about shoving unmetered fuel and oxygen into the engine. You won't NEED to upgrade your fuel pump and you can just install an inline fuel pump if you really want to, but its not 100% needed if your fuel pump is still running pretty strong.

Wont need a tune, but it would be nice as it'll last longer. But if you do the exhaust yourself probably $150 for all of that (going the cheap way gutting the cat, no resonator, no muffler...). And then the nitrous kit maybe 500-600 max (eBay ones are cheap and aren't too bad anything above 300 and under 400 would be fine). Refills are cheap if you know someone who can do it. A purge kit would be cool too if you get a gtfour hood and run the purge out of the two upper vents!

but if you do the work yourself you can probably get everything done for under $600 with a cheap kit. start with 25 shot, move up to 50, listen for knock, go up to 75. If you're ballsy, run a 100 lol but it won't last long.

You'll be looking at maybe 160-170 whp. punch the nitrous after you hit 15mph and then hit it at 3000-5500 and so on. don't keep the nitrous depress while you shift. the rpm will keep going since its not controlled by the throttle lol

THIS IS NOT A POST FROM EXPERIENCE. THIS IS STRICTLY FROM RESEARCH.

Also sorry of the random locations of the info, i just get off track sometimes.

First of all Im not trying to discourage you, i just don't think most of the guys looking to keep the 7a in their car realize how much work or money it will be.

You will need a stand alone ECU. If you use a 4age head and ecu, it will probably run, but not properly.
If a good stand alone and tuning (plan for many hours of just tuning) is out of your budget, a different swap would be better.
Other than that, swap the 4age head over (easier said than done...), wire everything up, and technically you have a 7age.

If you're looking to build it, and have an exhaust of income, don't want to do much work yourself...
http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/165/7agte-...-2b-engine.html

"7000 NZD" or roughly about $4450. Thats without their turbo and extra stuff. Also not including shipping or a transmission that will handle the power. And no ECU or tune, exhaust, intake piping, or upgraded fuel pump.

Id set about 5500 + tuning Time as the baseline for how much it would cost to make your 7afe into a 7agte.

Going for just a 7age for the measly extra power it would provide NA makes no sense as you'd still need a standalone ECU to run it, still need to tune it (but it would be easier and require less time) and still need to rip apart your engine and machine it (while its apart most people rebuild it and upgrade the internals). THEN when you finally start it up, and get it running, you will be happy for a while, then you will want more horsepower. Being that you've already invested at least $3000 into it NA you won't want to just swap to something else anymore you want to keep your 7age, but turbo it. You will then have to change the internals so you can run high boost, and then rip apart the engine again (at least no machining this time? if you don't warp the head from overheating issues from boring coolant lines incorrectly), rebuild it again, install a new exhaust, new intake/intercooler piping which will need welding/some custom work, tapping into oil feeds, etc, upgrading your fuel system, starting it, and then tuning again.

Over all the cost to do all of what i mentioned before , will honestly be much cheaper, much faster, and much more reliable, to just buy the engine from those guys (MRP same people that rusty was referring to) then just doing the wiring of the ecu, installing the intercooler piping, upgrading your fuel system, and tuning on your own (or find a friend).

Again not trying to discourage you, just providing some info that a lot of people don't think about. If after reading this, you want to go forward with the project. Feel free to ask questions on the forum, Im sure someone here will know something about it at least!

Do your hazards work? If so its the flasher, NOT the OEM bulb. The only reason your blinker would stay on, is if the front AND the rear bulbs are out, and the other side has either the front or rear bulb is out causing hyper flash on one side, and a steady signal to the other.

By the first question, I mean to turn your hazards on and see which bulb(s) is(are) out

If you're talking about projector headlights, it uses a different bulb, so you have to make an adapter plug, or you can just cut the plug and solder the leads from the ballast to the wires

Oh cool good to know, I though if the passenger seat belt wasn't clicked in that side wouldn't go off.

If the increase in vibration is minimal compared to stock. put me down for a set. Would like around 45-55 on the durometer for the tranny and the passenger side motor mount, and whatever else (65-75) for the torque mounts. If color is an option id like some blue ones

you don't have to, if you short the power wire, all it does is turn on a light if the car is on (the seatbelt light). If off, it won't do anything. Well it will arm the airbag on whichever side you're working on, but, cutting the wires or shorting them won't set it off.

Lol i might want the projectors too ill let you know. I already have a pair but I'm going to do a bixenon + halo conversion to them and then a bixenon + halo conversion to high beams as well

Purchased from Slavie, waiting on it to arrive

Cutting is fine if in the spots I tell you to cut it for shipping!. But anyway I need/want a 404 or 404a front lip, preferably a 404 but I can make the 404a work.

Let me know how much you want for it. Send me pics please. Price I'm willing to pay depends on condition, but if yours is junk let me know it may be of use to me:)

Got a 96 GT with a 5 speed parts car. Transmission shifted fine, when I drove the car home. Location is 96821 Honolulu HI let me know if you're interested.