6G Celicas Forums

Nope, sold yesterday sorry

9/10 condition. I guarantee this is the cheapest you will find them anywhere especially for how good of condition they are. Will come with everything you need to plug and play, including the bulbs. Can send pics on request or you can go to the FB group I have them posted there. 150$ shipped anywhere in the US

In lenexa, about 15 mins from kcmo. I've got a rear hatch cover (that i hear is rare) and a set of 5x100 wheels, a passenger side motor mount, some windshield wiper motors, and probably some other misc stuff I'm forgetting about

Update: riser blocks sold, JDM tails still available and need gone asap

Selling JDM kouki tail lights, ready to ship anywhere in the US. Tail lights are 9/10 condition. Will come with everything you need to plug and play, including bulbs. guarantee that this is the cheapest you will find them anywhere. 150 shipped

Don't know how to post pics here but have an ad on the facebook group as well with pictures.

Thanks guys, couldn't ask for better responses and I appreciate that more than you know. gonna try the screwdriver thing and most likely drop the oil pan. Either way i think this ends in me retiring my 6gc, head was rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago and i think I'm done dumping money into her.

No difference at all, whether I'm in neutral or accelerating. But from what I know about rod knock is that it should always be a constant knocking noise no matter what rpm, this seems more sporadic, like it may stop for a split second, be quieter, be louder, etc. Sucks to hear other people are bitin the dust too

So today is a sad day and I'm trying to figure out whether the knocking I'm hearing is rod knock or a cracked flywheel. Anyone experienced either? For the past few months, even after swapping in new mounts, I've had trouble from time to time getting out of 1st gear without the entire car shaking. Knocking first started today at just around 2k rpms and was very subtle. The next time I started it is when it became more apparent and was loud throughout the entire rev range. Also noticed while driving it home revs would drop about twice as fast and had lost at least 25% of power. If anyone can throw in their 2 cents it would be greatly appreciated

Problem seems to be solved, just ended up needing to be burped some more thankfully. as for the cylinder walls and pistons they were worn but nothing too bad. Thanks so much for re-mentioning the burping thing I would have completely forgot about that

Tstat is relatively new, changed less than 2 months ago. I haven't checked to see if it's bad or not though so I will tonight. We did burp the cooling system when it happened but not for long so there may be a decent amount of air still in. right now its sitting in my friends shop parking lot and i had him start it up over the phone since I'm not there to which he said no white smoke or coolant volcanoing so maybe there is just more air needing to be burped out, at least that's what I'm hoping. Going back to look at it tonight, anything else i should look out for?

So after finding a valve seat in my cat, me and a friend who is a mechanic swapped my 5sfe head, torqued all headbolts down to specification, resurfaced everything before putting new headgasket on, etc. after finishing it ran great for all of 10 minutes then started overheating and when we stopped and pulled the radiator cap off coolant was volcanoing. I'm still a noob/learning a lot of this stuff and I know it is a broad question but does anyone know where we may have went wrong? from what I've been told it is probably the new headgasket being blown but I want to know if anyone else has experienced this before i waste money/time sending the head in to get milled. Any help is greatly appreciated

That paint is beautiful, definitely envying you

Ah, 'tis a shame. Just trying to avoid spending 100$ on a new one

My wiper motor recently went out and no 6gc's at the junkyard. Wondering if the 5sfe Camry's wiper motor fits on my '95 GT? Thanks in advance

The sound isn't that noticeable when in motion but it's still there, when I brake it's loud enough for me to notice even with my windows rolled up. I feel like the best way to describe it would be the sound two metal knives would make rubbing together, a metallic scraping of sorts, haha

The problem is on the rear passenger side. Thanks so much for the in-depth explanation, I'm going to test that wheel bearing and dust cover now and see if i can't rule those out before anything else. Would it just be a faint vibration in the coils or something much more noticeable?
I can also take pics if that would help.

So I've been hearing some metal on metal grinding while braking AND while in motion, I figured it was brake pads grinding into the rotors so I put some new rotors and pads on. While the old rotors were warped, even after i put the new ones on the sound is still there if not worse after spinning the wheel while the car was on jacks. could a wheel bearing or caliper be the culprit? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Paint and wheels are gorgeous, sheesh

Hi, I'm new to this forum so forgive me if I do anything wrong. I have a '95 GT and lately I've been trying to get my A/C up and running (won't even blow air through vents) And I've replaced everything I thought may be the problem (blower motor, resistor) even after this I'm getting no air what so ever. I decided to take it to meineke to see if they could figure it out and from what I was told, it was corrosion on the wiring harness that let's power to the blower motor. I have very little experience with wiring and A/C and was hoping someone may be able to tell me what part I need to buy and/or tell me how to fix this problem? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Couldn't figure out how to post pics so i left links to them

http://s1264.photobucket.com/user/lastregr...?sort=3&o=1

http://s1264.photobucket.com/user/lastregr...?sort=3&o=0