6G Celicas Forums

They do look a tad cracked. Where are all the mounts located? I can see two on the underside. Front sits just behind the rad, and there's a rear above the crossmember.

So went for a 30 km round trip drive the other day. About halfway in the car starts to make a horrible clunking sound. It can be felt on the pass side floor, and through the pedal. Bad vibration is associated as well. Roll car up on sidewalk, and check out suspension, drive shafts, brakes etc. All seem to be in good order and tight. No loose parts.

Noise is speed dependent, and is more pronounced once the throttle is released. Seems to fade somewhat when brakes are applied.

Jacked front end up, and removed both front wheels. Still there. Very bad vibration and noise even at 10 km/h, leaving front end on stands and putting the car into 2nd gear (manual trans). With car in gear, when I grab the axles, it seems that both outer cv boots have a clunk that comes from them when the axle tries to spin.

The only thing I really noticed was both outer cv boots have a bit of a "rub" mark on the edges of the ridges in the boot. The drivers side inner axle also seems to be a bit more stretched compared to the rest of the boots.

Since this problem just happened out of no where, with no previous symptoms, I am not sure where to start.

Could it be something internal in my trans, or both my cv's? Or both my hubs?

Nice clean engine bay..how long did your swap take?

BTW the door lights are from a tundra truck.

yea i still have her and yea i was dt last week. you can always shoot me a pm if you need to talk

lookin good jeremy. do you also have a silencer for it aswell?

either replace the boot or the entire axle. if you leave it and drive on it, the crack will spread and spray axle grease on the underside/wheel wells.

I have noticed a clunking coming from underneath the front of my car. I can feel it through the floor while coming to a stop on both the pass and drivers side, and it is only noticeable while coming to a stop or going over bumps at slow speeds. I also notice a slight clunk when I first start driving, almost feels as if something in the axle/tranny slips then grabs.

I did the drivers cv last week, and the pass was done last fall, and I will check to see if anything is loose, but I am unsure if it would be something suspension related or more drivetrain/tranny related.

If someone could help me figure out what year harness this is, that would be greatly appreciated. It seems to match up closest to a 91 usdm sw20...

fuel cut defencer. not 100% sure how that one works, but they generally raise the stock fuel cut, allowing you to boost more.

Looking to get her back together next week, so hopefully I can figure this wire out.

BTW for those interested, it turns out the secondary board is some sort of FCD hardwired into the ecu.

Painted my winter rims up. Was going for gunmetal and ended up with this:

Its a different breed of color. Let me know what you think. BTW car is dark royal blue

if your just planning to run them off either the stock amp or an aftermarket deck a set of alpine type-s will do you good and can be had for as little as 100 for all four if you don't mind used. they are very power efficient and work well off low power.

Add me too plz

18. 6gsillyca (Corey) (tentative)
1998 ST204.5 Ragtop (Black)
Calgary, AB

Are those 3 rhd celica's I see there? Who are the lucky guys that have the red n black sex machines?

I can try and show up, but I don't think I'll be able to bring the vert with me... If you guys don't mind a little honda flavor, I can do that.

I did not think that the hot glue, nor the masking tape are oem.

lol that makes me wonder even more what sort of harness/wiring/ecu I have in my car...

That ecu had 17321 on the back, and should be from a 91jdm sw20...

I will try and grab some pics of the wire side of the harness, but here is my ecu in question

I took the cover of the ecu off, but I do not know how to tell if it has a techtom board installed... There is a big circut board with "3sgte, 0129 93.4.4" written on a piece of tape on the underside, connected to another circut board built in the ecu housing.

I know that the 2 ecu's should not be able to run a certain harness, so that makes me wonder which harness I actually have...

Thanks Lagos. Is that how I would go about re-pinning the harness aswell?

Do you know where the red/white plug is supposed to go? I will try and grab a wire side pic.

93 JDM 3sgte, 98GT USDM droptop.


Also, I have done some reading on mr2oc, and need a little bit of verification. I understand that 93jdm harness is plug and play with 93jdm ecu and 93-95 usdm ecu. 93 jdm ecu p/n of 17380.

I currently have 2 ecu's (one came with car, and second I picked up off mr2oc). The one that came with the car, is a 17321, which I understand is a jdm ecu from 90-91. I was told this ecu may have been chipped (blitz, mines etc) as it came with 550 installed on the clip. This ran the car fine, except I wanted to put stock 440's back, in an attempt to try and regain some mileage.

I put some 440's in aswell as a 17331 ecu, and the car seems to run the same. Still getting about the same mileage with the 440's and the (17331) ecu. Now the 17331 ecu is from a 91T USDM.

Why do both ecu's run my car? Most people that have 93jdm harness/90-92 usdm ecu are unable to get it to crank, which makes me think that I might not have a 93jdm harness, but possibly ~91. The fact that the ecu that came with the car, only being a 91-92jdm ecu, also makes me think this.

So I pulled my ECU yesterday, and in the process I accidentally pulled one of the pins out...

Hoping one of the wiring guru's can help me out and tell me where this belongs.

I did the entire axle last year on my celi, and it wasn't too bad. it took about 2 hrs just cuz it was my first time doing it, but it is fairly straight forward. R&R involves jacking car, removing the wheels, taking off the hub nut (24mm), and then depending on if you can wiggle it or not, taking the calipers/suspension parts. I took off the 3 bolts holding the lower control arm off, just to give a bit more wiggle space. Got a reman axle and install is reverse of uninstall. Packed it with the axle grease that was supplied with the reman axle, put some threadlock on the 6 bolts holding the axle to the tranny, popped the new axle onto the hub, and put everything back together.

FWIW I would recommend going with a new/reman axle set over trying to replace just the boot, and as a preventative measure, I would do both sides, esp if the other is already cracking. BTW I work at a dealership (albeit not toyota) and they use either reman axles or will just "rebuild" them on the spot (take it apart, clean the old grease out, repack it, and put a new boot on). Call around local auto stores, most carry reman axles, and most have a warranty on their stuff, so it would be better IMO than a part from toyota.

How does this weekend sound? Would either Saturday or Sunday work for anyone?

What days do you guys have off/available?

New axles? Front or rear? You can get these at NAPA/auto value for pretty cheap. It would probably be a bit quicker than ordering off toyota world.

Would either David or Jeremy be interested in coming up North to do some brakes (and axles if we get them) in the next week or so?

I know he is in Airdrie, but my car is up on stands right now, and I don't have driving insurance. Danny lives down the hill from my place.

I have a bunch of tools, just nothing air, all my tools are hand/cordless.

The only thing I can think of that we might need if we are going to be working 2 sets of cars, is another pair of stands. I only have 3 pairs.