6G Celicas Forums

PM me if you have one.

Thanks

Is the Trans still available? Pretty interested.

It didn't get a valve job, seal was checked pre tank and post tank to make sure it was good. They were just lapped back in after tank/blast. I havent done anything to the head other than clean and new seals. However, I am going to take it and get it decked for the MLS HG.

You really wouldn't do anything at all? no light hand sanding with like 2k grit or aluminum polish? I know its the journal on the head and most of the force is at the top of the journal but seems like it would cause problems.

The other issue noticed is the oil hole on the Camshaft on the #2 journal has rust forming in it? Any word of advice to clean it out.

Its really irritating, I havent checked them with a plastigage yet but will be.

I don't have photos at the moment, I'm in the field for two weeks.

So I took my head to the machine shop to be decked and cleaned.

Got the head back today, pulled the cams out and the Cam Journals were Sand blasted. The polished finish is no more.

Can these be repolished or am i completely screwed? Why would anyone do that to begin with?

Curious what people think about running mixed bearings. First off, I'll be running Wiseco pistons bored .5 over, Brian Crower rods, on a polished stock crank.

My thoughts are to match numbers on the mains and go with exact OEM for best and tightest fit. I've also read many people think the OEM Thrust washer is ideal. However, since I'm going with forged rods does it make sense to go with an aftermarket bearing such as ACL? I wouldn't be able to match the OEM numbers based on the differences between stock and aftermarket rods but my concern is that the oil clearances will vary between each rod with an aftermarket set.

Looking to buy a gas tank in good condition.

Of course you'd say that haha. When are you doing the 2nd Gen write up?

Any input as to which assembly lube to use and what engine break-in oil? I know I want something with a high zinc content such as the Lucas or royal purple break-in oil.

Also any link to a good article about 3sgte break-in procedures/reassembly? I've been looking pretty heavily at this one by Smaay: http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...bling+the+3sgte

Rebuilding my 91 JDM 3SGTE. The block is currently at the machine shop and he told me the cylinders are all .002" to .003" out of round (front to rear). Looking for some input as to which brands to go with to rebuild the internals. Not looking for an all out build, maybe 275 to 300WHP.






My plan as of now:
- Bore .020 over (86.5mm)
- Polish crank
- Deck block
- New rings, pistons, rod bearings, main bearings, thrust washers, & freeze plugs
- Stock rods
- Balance lower rotating assembly
- Cometic MLS headgasket

Questions about the build
- Anyone have any thoughts on which pistons to go with? Looking at either staying at 8.8:1 or possibly jumping to 9:1. Has anyone had any luck or heard anything about Topline or DNJ? Not looking to go crazy on the build but may end up putting Wiseco piston kit in.
- Ring choices are Hasting, Top seal (Seems overkill), or the rings in the wiseco piston kit
- Bearings, Leaning towards ACL tri-metal but any thoughts on King bearings?
- I've heard rod bolts should be replaced, is this something I should consider?
- Anyone used the freeze plug kit off KOracing?
- I know everyone preaches OEM GASKET OVERHAUL KIT, but has anyone used a topline kit? it looks like good material and I've heard they make allot of OEM gaskets for imports, is this true"
- Anything else I should consider doing during the rebuild?

If it helps any, the head is being cleaned, resurfaced (CBN), Vaccum tested (Possible valve job), new valve seals, and obviously a fresh gasket kit.

Anyone know if the JB Weld on the top of the oil pickup shown below is a factory deal? Almost seams like a repair but I've seen others like this out of the 3sgte.

Anyone have any pointers, or was the message written poorly?

Does anyone know if you can eliminate the line to the top of the fuel tank that goes from the tank to the charcoal canister in EGR equipped cars. I no longer have the charcoal canister or any of the EGR stuff on my car due to the 2nd gen swap. Its the line that runs to the top of the tank in this picture with part numbers its 77261D
Fuel Tank and Tube

Alright so tried to research this in depth but want to make sure I totally understand the PCV or lack there of on the 2nd gen 3sgte. Please read my findings and fill me in if im incorrect.

As I understand it now, this engine does not actually have a Positive crankcase ventilator valve but merely a baffle to stop flameup/liquid oil from getting into the pipe. However the crankcase, by way of the valve cover, needs to have a vacuum source on it. This vacuum source can be from either the intake manifold, post AFM intake piping, or both. Is this correct?

The reason for digging into this is I believe I have been doing an injustice to my engine. Vac lines were connected from the intake manifold directly to the valve cover and the breather pipe off the driver side of the valve cover was covered with a small air filter instead of connecting to the air intake. Now that I know more about the system this seems as if it would be allowing unmetered air into the valve and thus into the intake. Also is there any way that running it like this could hurt the engine, or be the culprit for piston ring expansion and loss of compression?

Should a catch can be installed and rerouted to the intake? Also can the breather pipe be removed and replaced with AN fittings or anything similar?

So i'm going through and fixing a few issues with my swap from years back and I ran through a compression test to see where the engine was at. BGB says 168PSI or more is normal, 124PSI is minimum and there should be no more than 14PSI difference between the cylinders. These are the results following the BGB procedure.

Cyl 1 - 170PSI
Cyl 2 - 149PSI
Cyl 3 - 170PSI
Cyl 4 - 149PSI

After the initial test I added a small amount of oil to the two that were bellow the 168PSI normal compression to determine if it was the rings. These are the results

Cyl 2 and 4 - 210PSI

So my question, it seems as if the diagnosis would be worn rings on 2 and 4 or possibly a scored cylinder. Both were above the minimum pressure however were not within the 14PSI. Any suggestions on what to do? Is it worth tearing the block apart and inspecting or good enough to continue to roll with?

Any info helps, thanks.

Its got three inch all the way back, no cat and high follow muffler

So ive had my swap completed for quite some time and its always ran overly rich. A little background, Its a 94 with an ST-185 3SGTE swap, stock boost, and 3inch exhaust all the way back. Its getting around 15-18 mpg. My question is could this be due to the Walbro 255 fuel pump with the stock fuel pressure regulator. I bought an adjustable AEM FPR but never installed it because i was told it was unnecessary. Any ideas?

1450

1500. Need it gone

Any new interest. Need it gone

Ya its posted on MR2OC as well

BUMP need to sell it make me an offer

Anyone know of any good tuning shops around Southern AL, Florida panhandle area?

I have a brand new never used AEM engine management system P/N 30-1121 for 1993-1995 Celica/MR2 2.0L Turbo. I bought this a few years back in the hopes of making my car a track car but ran out of money and have since turned to other things so this was never used. It retails for anywhere from $1,700 to $2,000. I'd like to get around $1,600 but need to sell it so feel free to make me an offer. You can either PM me or call me at 715-896-5412. I can email or text pictures of the unit if you would like. Here is a link to exactly what this product is: 30-1121

Thanks for looking.

Looking for a rust free or fairly rust free rear crash bar that will fit a 94 st coupe? mine is pretty much garbage and i would like to have a descent one. Let me know if there is one out there. send pics to toyotacelica_94@hotmail.com