6G Celicas Forums

1994 Celica GT 5 Speed Manual Transmission, White hatchback, 2.2L Engine, Auto Locks/Windows, A/C - cold, Leather, Stereo/CD Player with audio input jack, alloy wheels, Runs great in all weather. New tires, front brakes, and rear struts. Body in great shape. Failed Emissions. Could be Cat Converter. No oil leaks. 195,000 Miles.
PM for more info.

Got to lose the Celica so I can gain my wife.
See: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/car/246697728.html for pics. (of the car, not the wife)

How about a MAP Sensor. Do you have a MAP sensor I can buy?

The O2 sensor did fail the test - assuming I did it right - after I messed up the injectors. I'll replace it once I fix the injectors.

HC = 1.0237gpm (failed) cutpoint is .9
CO = 8.2135gpm (passed)
NOx = 2.5097gpm (failed) cutpoint is 2.1
CO2 = 316.0849gpm

Thanks! Good feedback.

Do you have 2 cats on your 94? I can't find a cat anywhere on the bottom of the car - just a resonator thing and the muffler. I can only assume that its under the exhaust manifold heat shield like on my wife's Camry.

Oh, man! You don't think I'm beatin my skull against the brick wall enough already for frickin with my injectors. Now you've spun me into deep, dark, self-mutilating depression.

I'll keep messing with all the exhaust stuff. It's a bit of a goose chase. I follow the tests that the Chilton's recommends and they don't necessarily turn out the way the book describes them. The mechanic I trust has disconnected his phone so I'm ruling out taking it to a shop for now.

Good point. I guess I'm afraid that the one I get from the junk yard will be all torn up like the one I have. It's at 200k miles and I haven't determined yet if it's just a matter of minor repairs or some major stuff.

My 94 GT failed the emissions test and so I thought I would be mr. fixit and replace the fuel injectors among other things.
First of all - the injectors are a pain in the axx to get to but when I finally replaced them, I'm not entirely certain I seated them correctly.

I put everything back together and started the car and now the engine shakes and hesitates from the get go and doesn't get any better after warm up. I had a perfectly smooth engine and now it acts like the engine is missing a piston.

Before I go to the work of getting at these stupid injectors again I wanted to see if it sounds likely that my problem is related. (sounds silly to even ask it, but I really don't look forward to doing this job again).

I was looking around at some of the crate engine sources and I saw a variety of prices. Does anyone know a rough ballpark for what a 5SFE should cost on average?

jspecautosports.com $895 !!!! ???? http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_pro...spx?prod_id=428

(it says engine only but then goes on to list all this other stuff that is included. strange)

orientengine.com $2200

powerpro200.com $2545

The 7A has 4 separate nuts on the body of the valve cover - supposedly with gaskets that you need to keep associated with the proper post that you removed them from - at least that's what my Chilton's said - offering me help on this with a 7A but none for a 5sfe.

How many miles on the Cat.? Rust? Does it rattle when you knock on it?

How can I see the pictures marked "IPB image"?

Speaking strictly from manuf. recommendations - Remove the Negative Cable battery and wait 90 secs - DEFINiTELY. Even if you don't set them off, you could mess up the electronics and they could go off on you while you are driving. This would be bad.

You can get a battery cable remover from the parts store. I do this every time I expose any wires or electronics to the clumsy end of my metal screwdriver.

Make that "Negative Battery Cable"

Batman722 = Good Seller
Sent me exactly what I needed and in a timely fashion. Product was as described. No hassles.

PM'd you with offer.

Glad I'm not the only one who finds getting at these locks difficult

Thx. I'll find out.

I am interested if they are still for sale.
Also, can you tell me how to get to the door handles/locks and get them off? I have my door taken apart - all except for the window and the metal rods and plastic handle and lock mechanism. But it looks like even if I take all that apart, I still won't be able to easily get to the back of the door lock. Any advice?

I took the door apart and tried to spray the life out of all the moving parts with WD40 - No luck - it will unlock with the power door switch, but not with the key. Have you ever tried to get to these lock mechanisms - you have to take every single thing off the freakin door and it's still mostly hidden behind the door frame - STUPIFYING !
I also think I have a Toyota remote key system installed, but I don't have the remote - is it easy to get one to match what's in my car?

Guess I could do that. Wondering if I'll just find a cylinder that doesn't turn.

Is that silver trim in your profile pics painted or is it a kit?

I am a newbie so go easy on me. I just bought a 94 GT and the driver side lock does not work. Lock partially turns but won't unlock door. ToyotaWorld has the lock cylinders for $37. Is that the cheapest I can get? I assume I have to change all 3 locks plus ignition if I w ant one key? Searched for this answer but couldn't find it.