6G Celicas Forums

Good point though my cable is short. I actually wanted a longer one due to the cable hanging in the middle of the intake and it's being pressed by my strut bar (the plastic hose was cut open) so i had to remove my strut bar in the mean time. I don't think this is my problem though. Haven't gotten the time to post up a vid as I rarely use the car. Need you guys to see it to understand the problem I guess.

Thanks for your response. Yeah it moves freely although I'm not quite certain why it doesn't fully close, like it leaves a gap. Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be. I tried one of my buddy's IAC sensor (from 4AGE) they look really identical so i gave it a shot and it is still the same. So I am leaning towards more on the mechanical valve itself. I'll post a vid up when i get a chance.

Bringing the thread back to life. I have only gotten to bolt this over the weekend and all seem fine except for two things:

1. One bolt doesn't line up. (I was thinking of doing a spacer adaptor) but comes problem 2 below
2. TPS plugs are different. Mine has 4 wires and the BEAMS unit has 3.

Problem has really worsen as my idle drops to 500 when idle and sometimes it's erratic (500-800rpm) but if i unplug the IACV sensor then it revs back to normal. Also, it makes a hissing sound when the idle drops and goes up. This hissing sound also isn't present when the IACV sensor is unplug.

Cleaning the valve doesn't seem to make much of a difference now. It seems that the valve doesn't really fully close/open which causes the problem.

I'll head over to the scrapyard next week and find another TB. Hope it's for the Rev 3 this time. If anyone needs the BEAMS TB with TPS and IACV let me know.

Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Yeah i'll be using a disk with 5sfe splines from spec. I'll look into Southbend as well.



Thanks mate. I'll look into that.



I wanted to use a 3SGTE clutch for more contact? (I can't remember the exact term as I've been awake for 2 days). And I've read that I will need a 3SGTE Flywheel.

Edit: I found it here.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=89910[b

Option #2: hybrid kit (using a 3sge/3sgte/V6 to S54 transmission) : 3sgte flywheel, 3sgte clutch disk with 5sfe spline, 3sgte pressure plate and OEM 5sfe release bearing.

Thanks and no, still using a rev 3. I have researched that i can use a 3SGTE clutch on my S54. I'm on the process of researching for parts so I thought why not replace the bolts with arp's as well.

This might be a stupid question but i need to know what arp flywheel bolts to use. I have an S54 trans and about to change to a 3SGTE flywheel, plate and disc with 5SFE splines. Does anyone one whether i need to go with 3SGE or 3SGTE bolts? Not sure if they're the same. Thanks!

Can anyone provide the exact measurements of the "bolt-on" rotor that we should use? I think I may have found a local shop who is associated with distributing Brembo rotors and the rotors are made here in our country. Wondering whether they could create a one off for us.

Yes i was talking about the washers that go in between the caliper and mounting holes.

Have not had the chance to install these yet but could well be in place by early November.

After reading through the guide and several forums. You guys are indeed right. Reason i got very confused with the guide as i saw various postings of rotors which at first i have no clue as to why but now the light has came down upon me!

Luckily, machine shops here in the PH are very abundant and having the ST205 rotors machined down to 300mm would be a breeze and will come cheap ($20 a pair i assume).

About the rears. I read that the dust shields need to be trimmed down so that's ok. But what about spacers on the caliper holes? Can someone explain further?

Here they are.






They just look a wee bit sorry and having to inspect them I'm contemplating whether i should do a complete overhaul or just clean em out for now.

Thanks for all your responses.



Thanks for pointing that out. I've read that before and I will give it another go.



What if i am to use an ST205 caliper and rotor from a superstrut? That does make any difference?



I could've gone that path however, I've bitten the ST205 brake set already. No going back! Heh.


I think it would be best for me to take everything apart and see for myself as i really have no clue. Will post soon! Thanks.

Hi guys,

There have been a lot of threads about this however, mine is somehow unique so i wanted to create my own thread. I have an AE101 Corolla with a 3sge rev3 motor in it and converted to ST202 brakes. I recently purchased a complete ST205 superstrut front and rear brakes from a for dirt cheap and since this is my dream brake setup I'm willing to go through all the trouble just to fit it in.

A couple of things I need to put out here is that I'm from the Philippines so sourcing bits and parts may be a bit hard.

Just for background here's how my suspension are coupled with everything just bolt in (no modifications done):
Front:
- ST202 JDM spec McPherson single pot caliper and rotor, knuckle and AE101 balljoints and brake lines
Rear:
- ST202 JDM spec rear single pot caliper and rotor and brake lines

I cannot get a hold of a Cadillac Catera 2002 rotor. It's just not available in our country.

My questions:
1. To get the caliper bolted in, can i simply thread tap the knuckle and bolt it right in?
2. Will i need 3mm spacers?
3. Do i need to change brake lines? (If yes, that's fine as i would really like to get ss lines on them however, from what car?

Now for the rear i have no idea. If anyone has links that can help me. I have saved Culpable04's posts so i have that for reference however, if anyone else has any more info that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks 6GC!

Thanks for the input however the car is a corolla with a transplanted ST202 3SGE 3rd Gen motor.
I forgot to mention that I've replaced the AC Idle Up with several working ones to no avail.

I'm not really good at troubleshooting this engine yet as I've only owned this motor for 3 months and my previous motor was a 2E carburetor engine.

Reason I thought that the problem is with the IACV is because when I start the motor, the IACV makes a really loud hissing sound like it's opening and closing on its own until the engine fully warms up. Will upload a video of this later when I get the chance.

So basically, I have an issue with the IACV and as well as the AC connection. I just need someone to point me to the things I should focus on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

As the title suggests, idle on my motor is really problematic lately (3SGE 3rd Gen installed on a 7th gen corolla) - well not all the time. Basically, what happens is when I'm stuck on traffic (I'm in the Philippines btw) and it stretches for 10 kms stop and go, max speeds at about 10 km/h on a very hot sunny day. Idle starts to bog down to 500 rpms +/- 50 and sometimes even 200 rpms. So i turn off the AC and idle normalizes to about 1000 rpms then it starts to fluctuate 800 - 1000 rpms every 5 seconds or so then idle goes back to normal after 10 minutes. Turn the AC on and run the usual traffic for another 30 minutes and on with the same problem.

What i've done so far:
Spark plugs
Ignition leads
Rotor cap

Also, i've replaced the following as it was due however, not sure if it adds up:
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Thermostat
Fuel Filter

Last weekend cleaned my IACV and took the TB apart and IACV apart. Noticed that the valve or the gate that opens/closes doesn't go smoothly and it seems that it does not fully close, there's a gap on gate about 1-2mm. Gave it a good clean and put everything back on, reset the ECU and drove about 50 kms and it was fine at first as there wasn't any traffic cause it was a weekend so gave up on it and tested it earlier when it was hot and was on my way to work and it started again!

Really need advice. By the way, i don't have any CEL (literally) - the person who installed my engine decided that CEL was just a headache so it's much better not to have it. Anyway it's a long story and I haven't seen him since and i'm dying to wire him up on my loom. It was running perfect before so i didn't bother much though i was meaning to get it sorted. I know, my bad.

Basically, it only happens on midday and I've never had this problem at night. Not sure if it's the weather here however it was working well before so might as well.

PS: Will upload pics of the IACV gate when i get the chance to open it again this weekend


Thanks 6GC!

As the title suggests - my temp fan switch sometimes does not work, it acts up randomly in no particular event/order. Fans does come on when it's unplugged and as a temporary solution I've made a bypass
switch so I can turn on my fans whenever my temp starts to go up. Right now, I'm on the process of replacing my tstat and gonna flush the coolant and was wondering if I should order a new temp fan switch.

Btw, I have a 3sge motor and fan switch is located on the radiator. Thanks!

What's up 6GC?! I'm Kiolo and I'm from the Philippines.

I recently swapped over a 3sge rev 3 motor into my AE101 with celica brakes, not that anyone's interested.

As the title suggests, I'm looking into swapping over a 3sge beams throttle body into my 3sge rev 3. Reason is my iacv went bad and i found a beams tb from a local yard with an iacv on it. Unfortunately, they won't sell the iacv alone so i went in and made the purchase.

I've tried bolting it up and it seems right on, however, i was wondering what would be the effects of the larger inlet/outlet? I'm thinking that there really wouldn't be any power difference, possibly but not that much. Mileage consumption perhaps a little bit higher? Not really sure. Can someone enlighten me?

Thanks in advance!