6G Celicas Forums

Well people, I guess I'm leaving the community. While I loved my little car, cornering was the best, speed was sub par...I've found a new love that I can't wait to dump money into...

Here's a pic of my new 2005 Saab 9-2x Aero...WRX in disguise.



Sorry about the crappy iPhone quality...

While much faster than the Celica, the handling needs some work. This should be rectified the moment my taxes are done, woot!

I've really enjoyed my time here and can't help but use the 6GC site as a standard for many others that I'm now having to familiarize myself with. You people are great, supportive, and knowledgeable. As for the rest of the argumentative ones...it's been fun...a lot of fun lol. I'll still be around every now and then and if anyone wants some help in the Vancouver/Portland area with their cars, especially the electrical, feel free to hit me up. I still receive email notices about PMs here and I'll be checking out the site occasionally.

Later,

Greg

Well, the car is gone now, and will probably be bought by someone in Auburn who has no idea what parts are on the car...

Update again: Everything is fixed. Everything is smooth. Car is still for sale. If you think 3 is too much then you're dumb because the car bluebooks for close to 3800. I'm ready for a different car and have found a couple I like but it would be easier if this was gone first. My loss, your gain.

Bump with an update...

UPDATE: Well folks, you missed out, as I've figured out what's wrong with the car and I have slapped my head for it. Due to a series of exhaust leaks the engine sounds horrible, and loud, but the car runs and driver just fine. So this is officially a steal for anyone here. I drove it last night and it's just great...aside from being extremely slow compared to my wife's Volvo T5. So I'll be taking it to my exhaust shop for new gaskets and make sure there are no other leaks and then it's up for sale still, $3000. You could have had it for 2500 as I was desperate but you hesitated, lol friends.

If you would like to fix the leaks yourself you can have it for 2900, but I don't mind taking it in. Here's a link to the new ad...help a friendly member out:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/941092583.html

The ad hasn't been updated much as I don't want my wife to know, so you guys get the sneaky update.

Thanks guys!

PS - See that FD in the background of the second pic, I need to be able to keep up with that...

Bump, you can drive it home...

Honestly, I'm only looking for 2500.

Bump, so I can have a turbo...please?

Well ladies and gentlemen, it's time for me to move on. Due to recent frustration with my timing I've decided to put my 6GC up for sale. This isn't the only reason as I've been looking to has a fast for some time now, to be more specific, something that is either AWD or RWD and turbo. While I have dreamt about putting a 20v in it (I even have the Paseo throttle cable lol) I'm just ready to leave it all behind. My story sounded a bit more heartwarming the first time I wrote this but apparently I forgot to put FS: in the title so the whole thing was deleted. Below is a copy of my Craigslist ad as well as a link to it:

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/909836093.html

I'm selling my Toyota Celica because I recently replaced the entire head of the engine. I was replacing the head to fix an issue that's common with the 7AFE engine where the valve seals would leak oil into the cylinders while not in operation, which would just cause the engine to burn off the oil when you started it up pushing out a small puff of blue smoke. So it was replaced due to annoyance of having to add oil occasionally. Unfortunately the timing is a bit off after the installation so the engine sounds a bit like a diesel. I still have the other head that I took off and I'm just tired of trying to fix it. So rather than take it somewhere I would more so like to sell it. I'm asking 2500 which is fairly reasonable, the car would easily be worth 3800 Blue Book if the engine was running right. The car has several nice mods but if it sells I'm taking the subs with me.

17X,XXX Miles.
1.8l 7AFE
ACT Street clutch with heavy duty pressure plate.
Stainless Steel Headers.
2.25" Exhaust.
TRD Springs.
Suspension Techniques Sway Bars.
Kenwood EZ500 deck with iPod adapter.
4 Infinity Kappa 6.5" speakers.
JBL GTO 755.6 6 channel amp.
Scion TC wheels painted black.
JDM Taillights.


Everything is in working order other than the timing being a little off and the rear drums might need a little fixing up but the car stops just fine. The interior is in great condition other than the seats being a little dirty from the previous owner. I've had the car for almost 4 years and I've done my best to take great car of it. Regular oil changes and any required maintenance.

Feel free to give me a call or email me and I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you have about the car.

360-713-8029

Greg

Ok, well, I have two sets of cams being that I have the ones that came with the new head. The are both the same except that the old cams from the new head don't have the U just the E. I suppose it can't really hurt to try lining everything up with the U instead...wow this is frustrating. Everything is where it should be. Except now I need to try the hole on the U instead. I plan to wait until tomorrow night or monday to change anything on it so please give me all of your feedback.

Thanks.

Edit: Just to fill you all in, with everything lined up the way it should be using the E's guide hole on the cam pulley, the car runs at +15 base timing, which some people do on purpose but my engine sounds terrible. Sounds like a diesel and when you rev it a little there a slight knock. Mind you the only reason I replaced the head was to put one one that had better valve seals and hopefully get rid of a slightly noticeable rattle. It didn't have the diesel sound or the knock before the new head.

Car runs, has the whole time, we aligned everything, but it sounds like an effing diesel...wtf?

Ok, I think I've got it narrowed down pretty well, we have the crank at 0 degrees TDC, and we just have to make sure that the distributor rotor is about to hit number 1, but as far as aligning the cam gear are we aiming to align the hole on the E or the U of the gear?

Hey guys,

I just replaced my head yesterday and everything went well. The car started right up, but the timing is obviously off, I'm guessing the belt skipped some teeth at the bottom when we took the belt off of the cam gear. We have a manual but it only tells you how to replace it when you have one on, I'm looking for advice on how to replace it once it's been removed or "broken" as that's the type of situation we're in. There's nothing in the book here and we can't find a service manual online. So how to we align everything to put the belt on and have this run correctly?

Thanks,

Greg

Liftbacks are 6.5" all the way around.

Yeah, that's definately peak power. RMS for most decks are just going to be around 22w.

Right on! Another good note is that Eclipse double dins use factory toyota plugs.

Definitely looks like a ground.

Don't worry about it. It happens to the best of us!

Typically most 4 channel amps don't have a low pass filter needed to keep mids and highs out of subs. However given the chance that yours does, you could be ok; except for the fact that you have 15's that will probably want a lot more power than what your 4 channel can produce. I could go on and on if you'd like. Use the 4 channel for your highs and get a new amp for your subs.

Hey, everything with your switch should work just fine. I can't imagine why it would blow the fuse. How exactly did you wire it up? You just put a switch in between the Acc and Constant correct?

This exact thread came up last week.

Ok, it didn't take me long to find and I recommend everyone take a look at this good read*. What I've been trying to say, and I admit I may have not worded it very well. The difference between a de-cat test pipe and an aftermarket cat is only 1hp. You'll see good gains from either one over stock. 1 extra hp just doesn't seem worth it to me, I don't want to have to change it out everytime I want to pass emissions. If my friends can pass with their SR 240s then I'm sure it's possible, it just depends on what state you live in and if you're willing to put up with the possible headache.

*http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0610_...ters/index.html

I realize this may not apply to you, but my comes on occasionally during hard cornering or if my oil level is low. I've been having issues with my valve seals leaking oil into the cylinder so I usually just change my oil when I have this issue to correct the oil levels.

Well, here's the skinny on "high-output" alternators. High-output alternators take better advantage of high RPMs over stock. The only issue with that is they actually put out lower numbers when you're idling. My recommendation would be to complete the big 3 now, and add a capacitor to your setup. My general rule of thumb is at least 1 farad for every 1k watts. And don't forget to charge the capacitor before you install it.

I think I'm running an 18" as well. Love the sound still, and no more farting/spitting. It won't decrease any gains from the exhaust so don't worry about it.

I don't really understand why anyone would need a "staged" puck clutch unless you have forced induction on your engine, or if you have really high compression. Pick a brand you like and break it in. I have no basis of comparison, beings as I've only run stock and my ACT clutch, so I can't really recommend anything. All I can do is tell you that I like what I have.