6G Celicas Forums

Well, as I am sure most of know I put the Celica up for sale. I'm sure this seemed like a very random thing to do, especially seeing how rushed I was to sell the car. It didn't even take a week for the car to sell, and I couldn't be happier with how much. In case you are wonder wtf.. why? I had full intent of completing this build and to have fun with it. The reason being is that my "eleanor" came back up for sale. I tried to buy this car before but it sold a few days before I could make it there. I wasn't letting this happen again. As soon as I saw the car for sale I immediately put a deposit down on it. So here it is my new 1991 Nissan 300zx tt. The car is pretty wild to say the least. The car was completely built by Z1 Motorsports and owned by one of Z1's employees. It's a absolute monster with twin GTX2867's, built block and heads. On 93 it put down a conservative 631/521 to the wheels. I have never bought a modified car before, it's not typically how I do things, but knowing that Z1 is who did every bit of work on this car it doesn't concern me the least. Of course I will be changing some things to make the car my own, but nothing to dramatic. Here's a couple pics.

Thank you, as for the build direction I think it is quickly following the foot steeps of all my other builds. I would like a high hp, light weight street car, that can also pull impressive numbers at the drag strip. I don't want to loose a lot of the practicality of the car, but it is easy for me to get a bit carried away with a project. So I guess only time will till.

The cell is only necessary because the location of the factory gas tank will be in the way of the drive shaft when going to AWD. The disconnect, it is ruled to be necessary for Ferrin group, and MSU racing auto X, along with any NHRA track in order to pass tech. If the battery is not in the factory location it is needed to have a visible external battery kill switch. Seeing I plan to mount the battery in the rear passenger side of the trunk I figured I would get the switch out of the way now haha. As for the S2000 antenna, it installed with the cut/ glue method.


Just ordered up all my gauges for the car. I plan to make a custom center consul that houses the gauges where the Hvac vents are located. I am really leaning to a Race pack for the gauge cluster itself, but we shall see. I got all Innovate gauges. In my opinion they make the best product on the market, and hands down the fastest responding Wide band available to date. So I figured all matching would go well.

Boost/ shift light

Oil Psi/ Temp

Wide band AFR


Here is what I have planed for the gauge pod ( Not sure who's car this is, Ignore the poor Photoshop skills)

It's has been a while. I suppose I will do a small update:

Front seats:


Rear seats:


New lug nuts:


New wheels:











Finally got a nice undamaged front Eurou Lip! Just waiting on paint!


Also got myself a PC680 battery, love these little guys, Ran one in my Evo and all my DSM's light and small!


I will be making a carbon fiber tray and stay to mount the battery in the trunk. Also got a externally kill switch, personally I hate these things, but if you are going to move the battery you need one. Luckily I think that it looks clean where I installed it. (Ignore the missing Toyota emblem, took it off for paint correction)


I bought a 12gal fuel cell also, This I will be mounting in the trunk, I will be cutting out most of the trunk floor and make a tubular support for the fuel cell. Then the area surrounding the cell will all be carbon fiber as apposed to sheet metal, should help shed some weight. This will all be in preparation for awd that will be coming next winter. Hopefully i will be tackling the mounting and plumbing of the cell this coming weekend.


(Sadly they sent me the wrong one.. This one has no sending unit, I should have my replacement by Wednesday)

Lastly I installed my 7th gen short throw shifter, it was great and all but I hate how short the actual shifter itself was. Personally I like tall shifters. So I decided to try something a bit different. I went with a K Tuned unit that extends the shifter, and also relocates it 1" in any direction. Oh my how much I love this setup is unreal. It is simply amazing, moving the shifter closer to the rear of the car is great as well seeing I am tall and typically have the seat all the way back to be in a comfortable driving position. It is also aesthetically pleasing. I will be excited to bring this set up over to the 3sgte/ awd swap.

I have one I'm willing to sell. Shoot me a text 5172318476.

Awesome! That is good to know!

Well I came across a set of my dream wheels for sale.. Couldn't help myself but to scoop them up. I can hardly retain my excitement lol. I can't wait for them to arrive, Truly I had no idea they made them in 5x100. Should look nice on the Celica! You all will have to wait to see finished pictures:)

So decided to not let her go just yet. Really haven't got to complete what all I want to do to the car. Now it is time to focus on performance. As tempted I am to drop this build 7 bolt 4G63 in the car, I just think it will be a bit more then what I'm looking to. I have decided to take the easy route and stick to a 3sgte. I'm not positive just yet on the 205 or 215 engine, I plan on buying the swap, and building the motor over the course of this summer, then come next winter I will do the swap. I would like around 500whp, should be enough to have some fun. Many parts are going to be custom fabricated such as the down pipe, aluminum exhaust, I/C piping, turbo manifold ect.. I think I will be going with the FP Xona Rotor 65*64 turbo. Should be an interesting build. I'm looking forward to it.
As far as drive train I will be converting it to AWD, it is not a option in my book to keep the car FWD. How stout is the st205 Trans & Diff? Obliviously with going with a large frame T3 turbo the Trq numbers should hit soft and kept relatively low so that should help save the drive train regardless. Any input would be great.

Not holding my breath on this but it maybe the end of the road with the celica. Just 3 days ago I had someone off me a lot of money for it, and it's enough to persuade me to let it go. I have been itching to get myself in a BNR32 and if this goes through that will be the direction I will go. I guess time will tell. In the mean time I have the car entered in the Tuner Galleria show in Chicago this Saturday. Anyone else gonna be there?

At least I didn't get my hopes up ....

Thank you! There is currently 3mm of clearance wheel to caliper. I may try a 3mm spacer just to give it some extra room. We shall see:) finally got the brakes bled and good god, this thing stops violently (if you need it to). Very happy with how it feels, I can't wait to hit some AutoX events this summer! between the suspension and brakes this thing should do extermly well.
So far with my luck of getting parts damaged I'm not getting too excited just yet, but my TRD roof spoiler will be delivered today. So fingers crossed.

No, a spacer would cause issues with the fenders.I'm not that concerned, that distance (hopefully) will never change so clearance is clearance

Well got the big break kit installed! Man, it sure is big hahah. Here are some pictures! Luckily they just clear my wheels, I can hardly fit a credit card between the caliper and wheel
Stock Vs Wilwood:



Who doesn't like it tight

Thanks Bryanf.

Well I met with DHL yesterday to finally get my Eurou front lip, it has been a long time waiting.. Of course it was damaged, 3 long cracks, and 2 spots on the ends where chunks where missing... Really I could have repaired it seeing it was fiberglass but after spending over $600 on it I just was not in the mood. so i refused the shipment and am now contacting RHDJapan to see what we do from here. I really don't feel like waiting another 3 months to get a replacement that lets face it, will most likely be damaged also.. This sucks, not sure what i am gonna do for a front lip now.

Well I received my Wilwood BBK and man does it look nice. All tough I'm not a huge fan of the caliper color, so I decided to have that changed. I sent the rotors and calipers off to the paint shop. I wanted the calipers color matched to the car, I also have black Wilwood vinyls to install on them! I also had the rotor hats done a nice satin black, so they don't get rusty. Turned out really nice. hoping to install them tonight! My Eurou front lip will finally be here tomorrow, after test fitting that will be off to paint as well. Seat brackets are coming Thursday, but my Recaro seats are still a few weeks out .
Here are some random pictures.

The lowest part of the car is the exhaust, its maybe a couple inches off the ground. However once my Eurou lip comes in that should sit very low as well.

Thanks! I appreciate all your help sourcing parts

Well still waiting on the brakes to show up, along with the seats. But yes next will be engine / trans. Still up in the air with what exactly I plan on doing. Really thinking a transverse RWD 4G63. But we shall see!

That is a beautiful R32

There is not one, because this kit on my car is currently the only performance air suspension on a 6g Celica . Time and time again air suspension proves its self, yet for some reason people just cant understand that it performs. I mean take Cody Miles for instant. Finishing 1st in countless time attack events this year alone. Not only beating his class but also setting track records on Air Lift performance suspension. Here is a great article that is for anyone that can simple not comprehend that air suspension can perform as good, if not better then coil overs should most defiantly read. The proof is in the pudding. After finishing this if you still are not open to the idea then its simple, your close minded and follow what everyone else does, because every one else does it. I'm not direction this to anyone in particular just to the vast majority that still do not think air can perform. I had a kit on my 600hp Evo and that blew peoples minds... Especially in the Evo/Dsm (Where change was simply not excepted) community seeing that the car was specifically track orientated.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/12/life-o...ip-winning-sti/

It doesn't scrape on anything? Also handles significantly better then the factory suspension. Not sure if you are trolling or don't know how our air suspension works..

18 hours into this suspension setup and its officially finished. Feel like I'm talking to myself here so I'm not going to get into great detail on the rear. I ended up being able to run a D.B rear air spring which is great! Had to do some modifications to the inner strut tower to provide clearance for the air spring. She gets low rides ridiculously nice as well. Keep in mind this set up still has 30 way adjustable damping front and rear, front adjustable camber plates, pillow ball upper mounts, and spherical bearing rear mounts. Nice and stiff pitching it into a corner but also soaks up the horrible Michigan roads much nicer then the coil-overs did. Front struts are 3.8 lbs lighter per side, and rear 4.9lbs per side. The control system, lines, harness, compressor, tanks ect. weighs 24.8lbs, so over all this system is 7.4lbs heaver then coil-overs. Complete ride height adjustable at a touch of a button. Something many people don't understand is that you can adjust individual bag pressure live. Couldn't be happier with how it turned out. Here are some picture of it air'd out







Got this bad boy today also!

Thanks Box.

So it was time to finally get this thing on air. Needless to say it was far from a bolt in ordeal, but gladly I'm finished with the front. A bit of issues that I ran into was clearance clearance and well clearance.. Tire to fender clearance, wheel to shock-body clearance, and air spring to strut tower clearance. What a pain.. So originally I planed on running a double bellow (D.B) air spring in the front of the car and a sleeve set up in the rear. This is ideal for a few different reasons (Not going to get into great detail at this moment). Well with the D.B front air spring installed it was a little to close for comfort to the inside of the strut tower. So I decided to crimp up a sleeve for the front the same ones I plain to use for the rear. The sleeve is more narrow but also sits lower on the damper body. Free'd up a lot of room in the strut tower, but then notice the wheel to bag clearance was too close.. As I said the the D.B is fat and short, the sleeve is skinny and long. So the D.B air spring actually sits above the tire in the wheel well, so there is not clearance issues there, only with the inner strut tower due to it being a larger diameter. So back to the D.B. I had the upper camber plates set to -2 degrees, so I pulled that back out to 0 and that free'd up more room in the strut tower for the D.B. The tightest measurement at this point between the bag and shock tower was 20mm, and seeing this bag will only grow a maximum 4mm over all (2mm each side) and factor a total possible 10mm (5mm each direction) of strut movement (yes this is more then it will actually move but I like to play it on the safe side) so that means I should at all times have a minimum of 13mm of clearance. Tight, yes but it will work! NOW another issue.... After a full cycle through from full extension to max compression I saw a whooping 74mm of stroke.. On a 114mm damper body... to say the least it's far from ideal. The only thing that was restricting the stroke was compression and it was only due to tire-fender clearance. Now that I have the camber set to 0 on the upper mounts I had no room for the tires to go inside of the wheel wells. So I need more camber adjustment at this point. So I removed the lower mount from the damper body and chucked it up in our bridge port to machine the upper mount hole an addition 6mm in, to have adjust ability at the damper body- to hub location. This does a couple things, gives me the camber I want/need without sacrificing bag to strut tower clearance, and have more camber adjustments. After installation I found all the way in gives the car more then enough camber to provide 111mm of suspension stroke, which is phenomenal on a 114mm damper body. With having the camber adjustment at the lower mount this moves the inside of my wheel closer to the damper body, because the wheel is not moving with damper body on the camber adjustment. Luckily there is still enough room for there to not be an issue, and full in is a total of -4 degrees of camber at ride height, at air out its just about -5.. This is way more then I intend to run. I would like around -2.5- -2.8 in the front, which will still allow me to have full suspension travel! Anyways the front is pretty much wrapped up. Here are a couple pictures. I will be tackling the rears today.

As I said before we don't just throw bags on cars to slam them, if that was the case this would have been much easier . A large reason you can't judge performance and handling of all air suspensions off from one air kit. There is a lot of things we do to set our suspension apart from the rest.









Oh also got my rear bumper euro rear lip and euro rear license plate garnish installed

Well here's a couple pics, got the headlights, steering wheel, all the carbon parts installed, and her all cleaned up. Very happy with how it looks. The pictures don't do the wheels justice.

While swapping a 4G63 in a Starion is very simple that's not really what I'm looking for. Fabrication, time, hardwork and money is fine as long as it's worth it.. A Rwd 4g63 powered 6gen with Gt4 exterior conversion is about as abnormal you can get and that is what I like. Anyways just spitballing ideas. Not something I'd like to take on right now anyways. More focused on just enjoying the car this summer.
Oh my carbon fiber parts came in early too

Rain guards
Hood vents
& Hoodspoiler
They look lovely!

Yea the 2j was just a thought. I know the 4G like the back of my hand. This may happen come next winter. Not sure what I would do trans wise.