6G Celicas Forums

I installed some JBL GTO separates -6.5” with the tweeter in the stock location up high. I made some adapter plates out of thin wood. Crossovers next to the woofers and it sounds very good.

I also put some dynamat in the doors in a few locations. No need to completely coat it - a little makes a difference.

Those particular speakers are known for exceptionally clean midrange while they are a bit weak on the high end. I boost the treble a touch on my HU and let the mids sing!

There isn't much of a perceptible difference in SQ. I suppose if I really concentrated I could hear it, but I absolutely can SEE it!

No more dimming lights when the bass hits! I do wish I had a device that would ramp up the idle speed when the amp draw is high enough to cause voltage drop.

It pulls air from several holes both in front AND back. There is a factory heat shield and the underhood temps are what they are, ya know..

That's the beauty of oversizing your components. They don't see as much stress under normal circumstances.

Its been a couple weeks now and the Fitzall is running strong! Haven't been able to get a full load test yet.

I put JBL GTO components up front (6.5) and GTO coaxials in the back. I wanted to put 8s up front because the are a direct fit but unless it's a matched set with a crossover and tweeter, you risk big disappointment in the sound. Properly installed and with door treatments, you CAN get very good midbass from a 6.5 driver in the doors.

The rear is another story. Its more involved to attempt to get bass from drivers installed there in a stock manner. Since I didn't need to rely upon them for any kind of bass response, I crossed them over relatively high. (160hz+)

And yes, the tweets from the separates will fit in the stock locations!

Greetings all, this is my first post at 6gc, and I think it's a good one. I've been wanting to find a high output alternator success story for our cars, but have come up pretty much empty so far. I decided to take a chance on the Fitzall 220+ unit from powerbastards.

After dry-fitting it up, it was clear that I'd need to have an adapter block custom machined. I set the new alt in place, approximating where it would sit to clear the manifold heat shield and line up with the belt.

Here is the size comparison:



And the block I had machined. It's made of mild steel and painted yellow for protection and to stand out a little:



Installed in its place:



The factory alternator sits in a bracket that has an internal dimension of 58mm and is held by a 10mm through bolt. The Fitzall has a mounting tab with a 1/2" hole.





For the tensioner side, I had to cut a sleeve to length and obtain a new, longer 8mm capscrew. I also found that I had to bore out the upper side of the notch a touch to allow a wee bit more tension on the belt. Note also the cut on the bolt block next to the alternator frame. This was necessary for clearance:



After wiring was installed, witness the alternator in its new home!



I used #1 welding cable to supply the juice to the battery. A 300 amp fuse is inline. This is not the one-wire version of the Fitzall 220+. I asked Mike to retain the Ignition, Sense, and Light wire options so I could have an install as close to factory functionality as possible.



As you can see, the belt lines up perfectly. I intentionally aligned it so that the 5 groove belt would catch the innermost ribs and not the outside 5. It's both easier on the alternator bearings and adds much appreciated clearance from the exhaust manifold.





Onboard I'm powering 4 Rigid LED lights, 2 VHF/UHF radios, 1600 total watts of Alpine PDX power, and a 1000 watt pure sine inverter.



The Powerbastards website says it will do 110 amps at idle, but does not specify any RPM numbers to go with it. I can report that at idle, and with the alternator spinning at 2000-2100 RPM, it will only put out about 50 amps. I have a contact tachometer and DC clampmeter to verify this.
This of course is generally OK considering the stocker maxed out at 70, but I will need it to supply serious juice to the inverter at idle. Anyway, once the throttle is goosed and the alternator gets up to 3000 or so, it puts out 130 easily. Mike at powerbastards told me that it should do 110 amps at about 2700 RPM.
I have been wanting to adjust the idle screw up a bit to get rid of the shimmys at stoplights, and now seems like the perfect time.

I plan on taking it to a shop and having it load tested; when I do I'll report on what it can really put out!