6G Celicas Forums

I'm in the UK and have a 94GT. The engine is a 3sge and all the time i've owned it the oil level light has always been on. If i knew were the sensor was ( belive me i've looked ) i'd just jump the pins to shut it off. I really don't think the light is nessasary... you should know when your loosing or burning oil. Its nothing to do with the preasure so dont worry about it. If anyone has a piccy of the sensor or can tell me were the plug for it is supposed to be i would apprecite it.

Leigh

Cheers!! Just what i was looking for too

Leigh

Timing belt snapped eh?. You would know if that happed for sure. You would have an instant loss of power and the car would have felt as if it was braking hard as your engine really wouldnt want to turn over. You would not experience any loss of power befor the event it would be just like everything was normal then sombody removed the key whilst you are in motion.

Thats my opinion anywayZ

I bet its somthin and nothin if you ran rough befor the engin died.

Leigh

Hi all,

I drove to work the other day in my 94 celica GT ( ST202 ) and the rear handbrake ( or emergency brake ) fell to peices and jammed on. I forced it home down the motorway and obviously found it totaly inoperative when i got home, so the car is sitting outside locked into reverse gear. The question is this.. I live in the north west of the UK and i need to completly replace all my consumable braking components as the MOT is due and everything is worn out, so were on earth can i purchase the parts? Toyota wants a stupidly high price for the bits, and everywere else i look they do everything except the handbrake bits. All i want are cheap parts that are as good as the OEM bits, nothing special, but pref all in one kit to keep the cost down. I've searched the forums but nobody seems to mention places were they purchase parts from. I need the front discs, front pads, rear disc/drum combo thingys, rear pads and rear shoes and little bits of springs n stuff that is likely to fly out or break when i disturb things. I will prob need the Handbrake cables too. Anyone any sugestions on where to go to find all the parts in one place and not get ripped off???

Any help appreciated

Leigh.P

O.K... The problem is getting worse now I've been off work for a week due to the old Shingles, Very painful lol. My car hasnt moved for a week as a result. When i used it to go to the docs today it started fine, but it wont let me accelerate until i get the revs up fairly high. Also when crusing along the road at 30MPH it started to get really jumpy like it was missing, proper kangarooin down the road, but as soon as i lift the throttle it goes smooth again, or if i floor it after a bit of a splutter it eventually takes off. Does anyone know what this could be or am i doomed to just wait for it to completly die befor i find out what is causing this erratic behaviour?? Please help me, Waa!!! i love this car but its treating me badly lol

Regards
Leigh.P

Reset the ECU... left power off for over an hour. This had no effect at all, the car just idled high for a while while it re-learnt its settings. My plugs are in excellent condition considering i've never changed them, funny pointy needle tips... cap and rotor are good, leads i'm assuming are also fine. Just cannot seem to get to the bottem of this one. I have a crack in the exhaust right at the back at the back box manifold, i dont suppose a leak so far back can be causing these problems?

Leigh.P

O.K, I'll try resetting the ECU in the morning and let you know if it makes a difference. If it doesn't i really dont know what to do, The MOT is up in a few months so i don't know whether or not it will be worth taking it through if these problems persist. Still don't know if i should have a temp sensor in the air filter box... anyone know??

Cheers
Leigh.P

Hey All, I also have a 95 'First year GT' and my car also has these same really annoying symptoms. I've had them for around 6 months now and can't get to the bottem of things. The car does approx 100 miles per day on the M-way, and currently has 113K miles on the clock. I've tried to cure the symptoms for ages but nobody seems to be able to help!! My symptoms are... Starts fine all the time, as soon as i set off the car seems jumpy, if i put the clutch in the idle seems to hunt for the correct idle, somtimes gets it so wrong it stalls. This can happen any time, wether hot or cold. I rekon i have about half the power i used to, and the car seems to be becoming sensitive to cold weather. Fuel consumption is up too. No obvious oil burning or leaks of any kind, no engine wear noises either, it just runs crap for a laugh i think. The only thing i can think of that i havnt tried yet is o2 sensors. Engine is a G3-SE, no fault codes either... CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP US???

Cheers :-)
Leigh.P

P.S should there be a temp sensor in a hole in the side of my air box? Cos there has never been one there and when i got the car i just blocked up the hole???

Anyone any ideas how to sort my idle out? Seems if the engine is idleing correctly at traffic lights and i give it a quick blip on the throtttle the revs fall, slowing down where it should be idleing, then miss the target and go way too low, somtimes into stalling territory. The idle then slowly rises back up to were it should be. I can't figure it out...

Leigh.P

Hmmm,
My UK 3SGE produces 177BHP.... maybe the posted specs are for very early models.

Leigh.P

At last the battries in my digicam finnaly held out long enough to get some pics. The first pic is a general view of the engine so you know which one i have.




And this is the strange hole in my air box.




I think i should just block it up. The bad idle on my engine is getting worse now and it is also starting to sound exhausty. I am starting to get power loss as well. I've been into a garage to have the exhaust checked but no leaks even though it sounds like it. The guy at the garage said the cat may have collapsed but he does not have any way of checking it. What do you guys think? Also my spark plugs are fine as i've had a look. Platinum plugs with pin-type electrodes, a fine coating of grey residue, no oil ect. Please Help!!


Regards
Leigh.P

Hi,


Thanks for the number, the website address will be handy too. This hole is not a home made one. It is properly moulded into the box as if it is to hold somthing and it has raised sides both inside and out. If i can remember i'll take a piccy tommorow when i get home from work. Do you know were i can tech info on the car then i can properly diagnose and find the sensors?

Have fun,
Leigh.P

Hi,

I checked the engine codes and none are present. The check engine light just came on and stayed on. I'm still unsure about this hole in the airfilter box top cover. Should i block it up with a cork or somthing?

Leigh.P

That's nothing, you wanna try owning a ford. They take more oil than petrol LOL. Don't give up on it yet... if you can be bothered whip the head off and replace your valvestem seals, it'll be good as new for years. If you can't be bothered get a garage to do it for you. It may cost a bit but it'll be cheaper than a engine swap and probably be a more permenent and reliable fix. You should only consider an engine swap if you have low compresion and/or ticking/ clunking noises. Even those can be fixed but at that point engine swap or recondition is better.

Good luck
Leigh.P

greetings,


Cheers for the info... i'll post the engine faults if any tommorow when i get chance to check them. As for the ABS i know the light has been on for the last year, and about the same time the clutch was replaced. I'm thinking the sensors were disturbed when the clutch was done as somebody else on anougther forum has also had this happen. Hopefully it will just be either the sensors are disconnected or the plugs/sockets have been stressed causing failure. Both should be easy to sort out, otherwise i'll have to find a scrappy near me whome has a celica to pull the sensors off. I'm still a bit miffed about the hole in my filterbox...... can you shed any light on that? Would it help if i post piccys of my car and engine bay?

Thanks
Leigh.P

Together i'm sure we can beat this illusive problem...........

If anybody has any pictures under the bonnet of a 3S-GE setup could they please post them as the years of dodgey mechanics working on my car has taken its toll i think. In perticular i'm interested in pictures showing the various sensors and wiring plugs/looms and were they go through supporting clips I know i'm asking a lot in here but i bet there are lots of people who want to know the same things. Afterall there is anougher thread on this forum with the exact same symtoms as i'm having. Unfortuatly the thread died out and the root of the problem was never really found or documented but it does say in that thread that the individual had an error code to say his airflow sensor was also duff. Hmmmm Anybody else had idle problems?

P.S I said earlier that the HT system was a bit neglected. After a clean there was no difference whatsoever and the engine has and never has had any signs of misfiring going on. Smooth as a baby bottem except for the idle.

Leigh.P

Greetings all,

Today it stopped raining long enough for me to check a few bits under the bonnet. The pillars in my dizzy cap are eaten away, the rotor arm looks like a rusty iron nail and the air filter was full of crap. I've cleaned stuff up for now and shall renew at the weekend.

Anyway i also took the opertunity to check the fault codes as suggested by Ray405. The codes are as follows:- 3,2,3,5,4,1

The sequence repeats over and over after that so i guess that is all it wants to say. Can anyone interpret?

Thanks for your help.

Leigh.P


P.S where is the airflow sensor supposed to be? There is a hole in the top half of my filter housing upstream from the filter with nothing in it. It is just open to the outside world. Is there supposed to be a hole here or is this were the airflow sensor should be? If that is the case could a missing airflow sensor explain a low/slowly oscillating idle folowed by the ocasional stall? Car drives fine otherwise.

According to the manual for my GT ( 3S-GE ) 2nd gear is good for 62MPH, 3rd up to 95MPH and 4th up to 124MPH, it doesn't give a limit for 5th gear. Personally i ride 4th up to about 90 MPH if i'm really pushin it but i'd never go as far as the manual says is safe. On a lazy day i would change into 4th at around 30MPH and be in 4th for 40MPH. Its your car, your fuel and your engine. You decide whats best.

Leigh.P

Thanx again, i'll read out the code's tommowow after work and post them in here. Whilst i'm at it what does it mean when your engine starts to hunt for its base idle speed? My instinct is telling me the O2 sensors are at the end of their life but could there be other causes on these types of engines? Pref a cheaper cause to the problem LOL. Once last week the engine actually stalled when i pulled up and depressed the clutch, drive fine otherwise and holds idle speed once it finds it.... could there be a simple answer like choked air filter ect?

Cheers for any advice
Leigh.P

Thanx for that, i'll have a check of the sensors if i can find them. Does anyone know what form the fault codes come in? What i mean is is it serial data or just a case of counting pulses out of the fault code socket? I'm an electronic engineer so if i can find out what type of data it is and get a list of codes then i will be able to knock up a reader with ease. Anyone any info on this?

Leigh.P

I'm no expert but white smoke out of the tail pipe always indicates water getting into the chambers. Check your coolant level, sounds to me as if you have a blowing gasket or cracked block/head. At first the symptoms are periodic as the crack or leak opens up as the engine temp drops then seals again as the presure and heat builds. Get it sorted now! if you leave it you are risking serious damage. The ECU prob picks the fault up due to the O2 readings going daft when your smoking.

Like i said though i'm no expert, just my opinion.
Good luck
Leigh.P

Hi all,

Just got myself a new old celica. Really nice drive with plenty of power. However as with all used cars there are a number of little things that need sorting. The one i am struggling with at the mo is the oil level light on the dash, it lights up as soon as the car moves from starting. It rarely goes out. It is not the oil pressure, but the oil level. I think this must be a faulty sender or duff connector as the oil level is correctly topped up with 10/30W oil. Anyone had anything similar? Also does anyone know the location of the oil level sender so i can check the plug contacts for fouling as i gather it will be under the car somwere. The car in question is a 94 generation6 celica GT, UK spec totaly standard, no mods. Engine is a 3S-GE 170ish bhp , dash type 180MPH 9K RPM. Sunroof, Hatchback. Also how do you stop the ABS light coming on? Does it indicate worn pads? as i think they are low.

Cheers,
Leigh.P