6G Celicas Forums

Well, a small update.
Finally got the car finished with at the body shop, and got to drive it all of 3 miles to the audio install place at about 30mph the whole way so didn't get to really feel what it's like.
I spent about 3 hours trying to get the rear roof spoiler fitted, what an absolute pain in the arse that was! It's like, the clamps would sit too wide and hit the frame of the car when closing the trunk/boot lid if I had the front of the spoiler just rearward so the black trim was just about lined up with the forward edge of the hatch. Got it fitted but I'm not truly happy with it as it's kinda squished up on the left side to prevent the clamp hitting the chassis so will address that on my next leave.

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Also made some slight progress on the custom rear lights. Started hacking up the left side while I still have access to visually see where I had cut away to make the light holder fit. Worked out well and got it done pretty fast compared to the first one. Next to do is to make the indicator cover plate for the left side, make the led tube side light for the left side. Make some mounts for them so they sit firmly in place. Modify both cover plates to fit the indicator arrows. Then time to fix the main light holders in place with expanding foam, some fiberglass pug over that, smooth it, then fix the clear lens on (hopefully if I get that finished good enough)


Speaking of clear lens, I made a start on that too.
Getting one vacuum formed will cost a few thousand due to requiring metal moulds to ensure the lens remains spotlessly clear while using durable acrylic so I'm kinda out on a limb having to try and form my own. Not easy to do by any stretch due to compound curves...



Need to flatten it more, so will probably have to fill the housing with expanding foam, cut back and shape it to what I need, then try heating up and forming the lens over that to finish it up rather than just on the oem lens as I did previously, as its too curved at the edges at the moment




Rear center brake light turned out OK. The one single lens I'd managed to cast that had a slight bit of fogging isn't as bad once it's fitted.
Looks oem too!







Also started and finished the driver side tread plate (although accidentally chain drilled through part of the letter 'A' I didn't want to, but managed to salvage it) so now I've a full set of tread plates ready to fit and wire in on my next leave!


Audio system will have been fitted by my next leave, including the boot build, so the rest of the interior will be put in and it'll be all finished!
Roll on October....

Just read through this whole thread. I'm so short on words right now on how you do literally everything yourself! And how I depth you've gone with it too! Makes me think, when I've got my own place, hopefully with a garage, I'm going to want to take everything apart and send all the nuts and bolts off to be plated as they're about the only thing left on mine that need doing (oh, and rear crash bar).
Your getup and go to learn as you go is astounding to be fair. You give everything a go. Even made your own chassis rotisserie! And now you're bead rolling making your own floor pans!

I'm sorry about the bad news near the end, but I'm so glad you've pulled through it and got your zest for this back (as well as the lancia, I'll be following that progress on Facebook eagerly!) Am keenly following and do really hope you finish this through to the end.
So much respect to you.

How did it go with the resin casting? I noticed you didn't actually mention much about any progression with it. It's something I managed to do with mine and am looking to perfect to get them out to other people (actual clear transparent lens with no light diffusing pattern bumps on the inside of it). A vacuum chamber is a necessity with ckearcasting resin (just a heads up after my many lessons learned!) as well as the type of silicone curing affects it too (just learning that one) as condensation curing can cause fogging which for my first near bubble free lens, had a touch of light fogging. Haven't mastered the use of the other type of silicone yet though, I need bigger pots to mix it in and degass because it keeps overflowing into my vac chamber

You're definitely a very talented/skilled person to have succeeded with this. I wouldn't even have a clue where to start! It is interesting to note the route you went with regards to notching the chassis instead, and may well be a better choice too. I'll be needing to take special care of my subframe otherwise I'd have to get any replacement subframe also notched/modified!

I don't plan on tracking the car, perhaps on a trip to the nurburgring but that'd be it. I will be too concerned about ruining it if I tracked it, and it'd end up with me chasing for better performance parts which means never ending money pit. Thankfully I have a house deposit to be saving for so priorities are on that.
I've yet to feel what the clutch is like, but it won't be my daily driver so hopefully if its too bitey, I can put up with it.

Yup, they did all the wiring for it already. As far as I'm aware, it's not too dissimilar than the mr2s but I don't really know. You seem more than competent enough but I'm sure he wouldn't mind answering some questions about it if you had any?

Thanks for the pm, am working my way through reading the build thread! Already very interesting read and I'm only on the second page!

Your end result looks like a very tidy job, and it is clear to see you prefer the subtle and oem look which is nice to see because it almost looks a piece of art!
I'm in awe of how you address the various problems you've come across not letting yourself get beaten.

I'm the same, but also I wanted this doing properly. It was almost completely properly but i allowed myself to be swayed on the inside which I regret now... I'd wanted even the inside done all over too, everything. But they said because it was a 3 stage paint application it was going to be costly when the interior gets covered up so they'd done it in black on the bits that would get covered and not seen. I regret agreeing to it now, maybe at some point ill address it myself, should be easy enough. I do like things done properly, where possible, even if its hidden, I know it's there and that bugs me!


Hahaha I look forward to enjoying that moment myself! Although armed with that knowledge, I'll be sure to have seat covers on


I can't imagine I'd have any room to fit a moroso pan then! Although, I'd rather not have to spend anymore on it, I'll be happy once it's done, so it doesnt swallow my bank account anymore
Did your engine sit against the power steering pipe on your passenger side when you were first trialling fitment?
Im also wondering about fitting cruise control to it. Unfortunately the donor vehicle has gone so I have to source a whole host of stuff for that elsewhere... Wondered if you'd thought about it. I saw in one of your threads you got rid of your cruise control which I assume came standard on the vert?

I was going to go with an E56, but after what I was told was an e56 that I'd bought from someone, turned out to be some strange rare 7afe lsd equipped gearbox with an incorrect bolt pattern that wouldn't fit the 2grfe. I ended up going with what was suggested as analternative, an e153. It still had the thick drive shafts though... So they still got used.
Thankfully I don't need hood spacers, I see your preference at not using them, and you can see on the subframe what is required should you choose to go that route, but then I'd be tempted to go the modified hood route as yours is smaller and a smaller bump would be required.

Thanks! That's 2 years of progress and ideas tried out! I was a bit concerned about picture spam too!
I'm not entirely sure the gen 7 instrument cluster idea will work as it's going from normal electrics to canbus, which while I know sweet f a about electrics except the basics, I understand could be the stopping point between enabling it to happen.
I've done a lot of trial and error, and been lucky where I needed to be lucky so far. Specifically lucky with the size of the mustang led units, getting the chrome tread plate correct the first time (recommend putting clear sti ky tape over the letters when chain drilling to prevent accidental slippage marks!). Lots of trial and error with the resin casting and silicone mould making to which I've still got a lot to learn to perfect it. Vacuum chamber is a must though, it's made a hell of a difference, and worth every penny.
Also learned some health and safety lessons! Safety glasses when using even a dremmel grinding disc! I had one shatter and bounced off my nose slicing it, onto my safety glasses. I'd now be blind in one eye if it weren't for them!
Also had minor chemical burns on my eyeballs (painful) because of the fumes of the degassing of the silicone. DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA! 2 weeks I spent scared of losing my eyesight (which is what prompted me to decide to wear safety glasses when grinding! So it does pay off!)


I'm massively looking forward to seeing how it feels and how the power delivers! It's like waiting for Christmas to come whi h keeps getting put back and delayed. Problem is, I know of the clearance issues under the bonnet/hood, and was glad to have found how njcc addressed it. However, I found that after mine had been addressed in a different method. I do have some questions for him regarding clearance and mounting points and how he addressed those issues, if he came across them all at all...
I'm also pondering supercharging it. Which raises all sorts of issues, the hood being one, to which would end up in me learning how to weld aluminium and a modified gt4 hood But I really need to drive it first and see what it's like before I commit to that. That was my ultimate goal, but the budget for this car has already been blown out of all proportion so I don't want to pay out for a supercharger kitif I can find happiness as it is.


Thank you, I'll keep it updated as and when I can! But won't really be much to update until I get back on leave I expect (6 weeks time)

Ahhh, thank you very much! And thank you for deleting the other thread that was similar. I tried searching to see if there was somewhere that stated this as I wondered if it was the case, but couldn't find anything. Forum guidelines didn't state it (unless you'd been breaking the rules, then posts became moderated), and forum faq didn't mention it either.
Understandable, and appreciate the reply!

Heya!

I'm new to this forum, a little bit more had been explained in a build thread I had tried posting, but nothing appeared once I hit the 'post' button. I also tried replying in njccmd2002's most recent thread but when I hit post, nothing happens... Yet previously, I'd managed to make my first post which posted fine, in the ST202 brake upgrade thread to GT4 calipers...How come this is happening?
Thanks in advance!

Sam

Hey, I'm a frequent member over on CCUK, but here is where I first found out about the 2GR-FE swap, I'd seen that njccmd2002 was one of the first to have one, and after reading through some of his Beams thread (photophuckit ruins it ), his Vert thread, and the thread titled 'never satisfied', I wanted to let him see what he helped inspire, as I was originally looking at a 1mz/3mz swap.

I have already had the Celica for about 3 years now, and 2 of those it has been in a body shop and engine shop. I work away 9 months of the year, so don't have the time (nor space nor know-how with regards to electrics, or welding capability/capacity amongst many other things ) but the job afforded me to make it happen anyway. So I still had the vision!

Well, the project itself is not far from being complete already.

Bodyshop to carry out:

• Full strip down of the car-Done
• All rust removed/welded up- eh, sore subject, was done, have had to get the body shop to revisit this
• Full respray-about 98% done
• Rebuild car with all new parts/fully refurbished parts-about 97% done
• Merge GT4 front bumper with Tom's Lip-Done
• Merge rear lip with rear bumper-Done
• Remove glass sunroof and replace with a fabricated metal panel that works in its place so the paint job can be applied to it while keeping sunroof functionality (not to be confused with transparency)-Done
• Interior reupholstered-door cards and rear quarter cards covered in leather too-Done
• BC racing coilovers fitted-Done
• GT4 front and rear caliper conversion-called off (I wasn't happy with shaving off near on a 1/3rd of the lug mating face material for safety reasons)-instead bought a full set of PB Brakes: 330mm disc, 6pot front set up and 4pot rear calipers and I forget the size of rear disc, but is smaller. I think 304mm or thereabouts.

• Woodsport to carry out the 2GR-FE engine conversion. For those that haven't heard of them, they mainly deal with MR2's, Beams, gen4 3SGTE, 1mz, 3mz, 2GR conversions for all 3 gens of the MR2. Also some bodywork/custom fabricated stuff, and erecently the Hapers hatch for the mk1 MR2. Anyway, moving on! Nearly done-fully installed, but required car to be finished off at bodyshop to be road worthy to set up and road test engine. That'll happen hopefully next week.
• Exhaust-Dual exit either side sitting inside the rear lip-Done.

Me to do:

• Chrome door sill strips to be converted to light up the word 'Celica'-Passenger side-Done.
• Modernise the rear center brake light-Nearly there. Chrome internals done, just have to attach it inside the stock holder. Custom resin cast clear and diffused pattern removed-nearly done, just got to work some bubbles out to perfect it. Current progress looks promising.
• Customise rear lights. Something completely different and more modern looking-In progress.
• I have someone working on working out if/how to get a 7GC set of dash gauges working for a 6GC so I can then modify them into the dash. I like the LED section
• Modify the 6GC dash to fit the 7GC round air vents in place of the rectangular ones. Then get it recovered in leather to fit with the rest of the interior.

Points of note for the 2GR-FE swap, The engine was hitting everything and in the way of everything. So it was lowered down about an inch (front subframe modified and reinforced), moved to UK passenger side an inch, and moved forward an inch or so. The sump is now sitting rather low so I'll be making an undertray to at least be some sort of first impact point for it should any rogue bumps get in the way

(EXTREMELY Picture heavy incoming)





















Chrome door sill tread plates customised:




























Center Rear Brake Light:

Some random ebay rear middle tail light for some random vehicle






Poured in resin to smooth it out. Next attempt need to do 2 thin layers rather than one thick.


Intention of making rubber seals too, but the one I used was seriously dry rotted and didnt take well to the silicone. It failed... Will try again though.






I've actually produced about 6 of these, each progressing with lessons learned until I swapped to a longer curing resin, which gave me much clearer result, but never really cured properly so is always slightly tacky, and I learned another lesson why I still get big bubbles on the lens. Another silicone moulding method will be attempted to combat that issue. I WILL succeed!



Current best result: Could be acceptible, if only seen from a distance, don't look too close But I'm a perfectionist and it's not acceptable to me... Especially if I'll be making them to offer for other people if wanted.




Custom rear tail light units:
First inception came because I saw an aftermarket center side/brake/reverse light unit for a 2015-2017 Mustang on google while looking for inspiration. An idea instantly popped in my head and I paintshopped a pic to see what it could potentially look like:



Very happy with that! Wasn't sure on length of the light unit though, so I went ahead and ordered two. My next leave would be interesting!
Research on angles of visibility required:


Removing the LED unit from its casing-this would be as small as I can get it apart.


Testing the lights at work-they're nice and bright!


Rough plan on how I'd fit them in the JDM rear light housing:


On leave-it's close, but looks like it could fit?


Cutting up to fit the LED units in:


Testing in the light housing, looking good so far:


Now to start on the indicator. I wanted 2 sets of sequential LED arrow indicators next to each other, with a relay enabling them to be sequential as though they were one, but I was having issues with providing enough power through the relay to light the indicator arrow, so binned that idea, and went with one smaller arrow that is a simple on/off, and one sequential to the outside of that so it looks like it emanates from the on/off arrow. Wanted to make a cover plate out of perspex to sit the arrows into so they weren't sunken in, and the rest of the room could be used for something else! Expanding foam to shape some perspex over with a heat gun.


Started the cover:


An awful lot of filing and test fitting and heatgunning later, its done!:


Perfect fit too! Coincidentally, the perspex was the exact same thickness as was the small lip that runs all around the indicator section, so sits flush:


What's this? fiber optic tubing to make fiber optic LED side light for behind the indicator (further round the side). Trying to make my own lights has turned me into a bit of a light nerd and I've really ended up looking into different lights, and commonalities with modern day vehicle light designs. One thing most vehicles have in common nowadays is the side light can be seen from... the side. I wanted to replicate this, with a fiber optic tube light. Ordered some straight tube from ebay/china, arrived mega fast, from a distance of around 30cm and very carefully (after first attempt bubbled a piece) bent the tube to test bending capability. It worked out as below:


Made a new piece, bent it specifically to fit where I wanted it to go, attached 2 of the LED lights-one on each end, and this is the result:


The black cover plate will be bent in so it shows more of the tube and stops being able to see behind the cover plate. Will possibly put a reflector on the empty spot of the cover plate as I've no idea where else I'd want to put a rear reflector on the Celica's rear end.

That's where I'm at, at the moment!

You're not alone with one other anymore
There are now 3! (or is it 4?)
https://flic.kr/p/2dszfD2

Hey, sorry to revive thread...
I'm having a slight issue with fitting of the rear gt4 brakes on the st202 with regards to the disc.
There appears to be about 1mm difference between the 205 disc and the 202 hub. The hub is listed to be 54.1 with the center bore of the disc being 55mm. I understand tolerance required for being able to slot them on. But apparently my hub has a slight taper on it too, as well as the 205 disc having a slight chamfer on the center bore. These added together seem to be creating a slight half mm floating.
It's not me doing the conversion but a garage who are also doing my engine conversion so I can't visual see but that's the information I'm being given. He seems to feel they're not being enabled to sit hubcentric properly.

Does anyone know anything of this? I'm in the UK and got my rear disc from MTEC.
Thanks in advance!