6G Celicas Forums

Anyone ran 9.5" on a 6th gen? pics? modds required?
My guards have already been lipped and rolled years ago, and yes I have suspension work and currently neg 3 camber.

I'm looking to get some wheels, and I'm tossing up between 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 all round, wheel make and model will remain a secret but they are the only two widths available and the offsets available are

18x8.5 are: +45 +38, +30mm
18x9.5 are +12, +20, +30 +38mm

cheers.

As the title says I am selling my 6boost turbo manifold, T3 flange, with the 38mm turbosmart Ultragate and screamer pipe.

The name 6Boost probably does not mean much to most of you, but in Australia he (Kyle, the guy behind 6Boost) is one of the biggest names in the business, his business is only building turbo manifolds using his own patented "merge collector", all manifolds are made from steam pipe and have a lifetime warranty against cracking, sagging, etc.
Compared to other manifolds (cheap ebay and expensive HKS ones and more) expect to see lag time decrease of around 200 rpm and make more power (this has been tested by 6Boost himself and various magazines who have done articles on his work, its not just here say).



Selling because since getting a GT3582r the gate is too small and instead of cutting up the manifold and modifying it, then getting it recoated I thought it better to get another one made.

The gate was just fine for the car when I was running the GT3082, and the HKS 3071, so as long as you have a GT30 series turbo or smaller it will be fine.

$1k AUD for the lot.

The gate clears my stock bonnet by a good 30mm, it was designed with the hottest area is actually directly under the bonnet vent.

I'm rocking a GT3582R also, great turbo.

Go to a car audio place and buy some dynamat, i'm not sure what it's called in the states but its a sound deadoning matt, its a thick heavy matt, sicky on one side and thin alloy sheet on the other. Put a large section directly behind the woofer (on the INSIDE of the OUTER door skin) and on the INSIDE of the INNER door skin.

Interested to see what numbers this little fella puts out. The wiring job on that ally panel is top notch.

It must have dropped off since I was on there then. In that case I suggest joining toymods. It's an Australian site dedicated to Toyotas of all types. There is a GT-four specific thread that is thousands of pages long and many people on there who know a fnck load about them.

Some of you may have seen the GT8, the ST185 Group A with a twin turbo 1uz in it, Justen, the owner/builder is a wealth of GT-four and technical knowledge.

Unless you plan on making 4 or 500 kw at the wheels the stock drivetrain (but reco'd) with a decent clutch will hold up.

^^what he said^^

When I got my first GT-four (9 years ago when I was 17) I joined GT4OC and it was free and open to everyone for a 12 months or more, then they brought in mandatory membership fees for full access and I let it lapse.

In my opinion the lag difference between top mount and front mount is negligible.

Welcome to another real GT-four driver, If I lived in the UK I would be signing up to gt4oc, the knowledge there is the best around when it comes to a four.
Most people on here have LHD fwd celicas, and our cars are very different in the important areas. (engine, gearbox, brakes, suspension, driveline, floorpan/chassis. ecu, etc.)

This is a pic of my car when I first got it.

Quick and simplified anti lag explanation.



The antilag valve (red arrow obviously) is a bit like an external wastegate with a big poppet valve and seat separating the top and bottom chambers. In the following when I say the TOP of the valve I simply mean the top chamber, and naturally the BOTTOM refers to the bottom chamber. The chambers are held together with a V-band clamp.

You can see the Anti Lag Valve bolted (via the bottom chamber) to the head (pretty sure its the head, could be to a bracket to something else, its been many many years since I removed it) in the front of the intercooler connected by a small rubber hose to the TOP of the valve.

The green lines represent roughly how the pipes come off the manifold, they are joined by smaller rubber hoses to the BOTTOM of the anti lag valve.

The blue line connects to the TOP of the valve and is the hose that goes to the blow off valve, non WRC/Group A cars simply have this hose straight on the intercooler.

The idea behind it is when you want the anti lag to kick in, you flatten the throttle and initially you get some boost built up simply from ecu tuning (dump in fuel and cut timing right back). When the ecu sees pressure in the system then the ecu triggers the VSV (behind the plenum runners) and the anti lag valve opens and some of the air in the intercooler flows into the manifold runners, this injection of fresh air significantly helps the ignition that's going on inside the runners creating much more aggressive operation.

The anti lag valve is fixed shut on the cars, I'm not sure how this is achieved, I didn't investigate further but I suspect there is some sort of stopper under the cap (instead of a stopper there needs to be a spring, again just like an external gate)

That is really unfortunate, that would have went bang in a big way surely?

Can you knock them out with a centre punch? Perhaps using some loctite freeze release too?

My opinion buy a decent aftermarket 600x300x76 core size intercooler and take it to either a fabricator, a performance car workshop or maybe a radiator place and get them to custom make some piping with the turbo clocked (meaning the turbo outlet faces down) and you don't have that big sharp angle pipe in the front right corner of your engine bay

I've never heard of that happening in any GT-four (certinally not any of the 3 I've owned).

The only thing I can think of is the relay is getting a power spike somehow or power going the wrong way from a short or something like that.

Perhaps get a multi meter and test the relay output (to pump) against the pump itself and see if there is a current drop.

Did they seize when you were trying to remove them?

Mine were open also, after I removed the anti lag valve and such I had to block off the lines myself.

It shouldn't have caused an issue, i've done mine a couple of times, using a clamp to force in one side at a time and I've never had a problem.

Did the resivour overflow when you pushed the pistons in? It's possible forcing the fluid back has dislodged a seal somewhere.

Very night 205 mate, and nice gt2 also.

Any (decent) panel beaters/spray painters should be able to look up the code either on their computer on on the colour charts and find out the name.

What is the colour number?

Just go with the standard 300x600x76mm core (not including end tanks)
I'm using one that size and it fits neatly behind the front bar.

Don't worry about lag from going top mount intercooler to front mount intercooler, its a non issue (meaning it makes fnck all difference).

Have a look under your carpet, in the boot etc, you may have some standing water in your car that is causing the fogging.

In Australia you can buy a spray stuff leaves an invisible film on the window and pretty well stops it fogging up, can't remember the name though

You should be able to, the button should be just that and therefore able to put anywhere, and the rest is just something to grab hold of.

haha thats awesome.

This is different. Not bad at all.

What rods are they?

Mine has the same issue as richee3, it takes ages for the air to come out hot, I just put that down to a semi blocked heater core and I'm putting off fixing it (since its summer here anyway and the days are hot) until I need to drain the coolant again.

Nothing at all wrong with this, very nice.