6G Celicas Forums

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!
At the same time...
YYAAAAAsssssss

Still have this?

How much for the whole car?

Bumpty bump. Car is now at shop need these ASAP. The bumper and bar more than anything!

bump, need these asap

Hey ladies and gentlemen, been a while. I am in the process of a rebuild right now and have had a few dings along the way. Looking to get a hood and bumper/bumper support bar as well for my 1994 gt body. I am in Az for work right now so ignore my profile addy for the moment. Hit me up. Thanks.

front seats to 10512, if they are the same as the rears.

How'd it go?

On a much better note I have new news on my old CT 26. The shop in Texas that I sent it to Turbochargers.com, formerly Texas rebuild as you know informed me that my turbine wheels were shot so to speak, that was the kick off to this whole thing, right. Well after informing them that I was just going to buy another turbo, I told them to do the seal kit and put it back together. I figured that I could just list it for $100 or something as "needs turbine wheels" or something to try and recoup a very little dough. Well that was not the case, their resident turbo tech Mark was like "I can't let this thing leave here in that condition", took it upon himself to try to shape and balance the wheels to get them back to a reliably operable state. He somehow accomplished this magnificent feat, But as I was talking to Ralph (owner or partner I am guessing, by the way he represented himself), we got to talking about his twin turbo 2jz Lexus, which is running twin Big 16's. Well Mark then took it upon himself to cut my compressor housing and replace my turbine wheels with that of the Big 16 variety (45.5mm). As if that was not enough Mark then balanced the whole thing out again and refinished the housing completely. I got a message from Ralph that my UEGO and EGT were on their way as well as my turbo, that is when I was told all of the other work occured. To my complete astonishment and delight all that extra work cost me... c'mon guess, you'll never guess. $300...nay, $200...nay, $100...nay, $50...P'shaw...............$0, That's right true believers $0 MotherF$%^in dollars. These guys went above and beyond, to accommodate me while I figured out what I wanted to do with my old turbo and then completely rebuilt and upgraded it for FREE, minus the price of the seal kit that I asked them to do. I was referred to them by a friend of mine, who has an all-wheel 94 Eclipse. He also does not have a bad thing in the world to say about these guys, The do all the machining in house, They even cut Some of their own turbine wheels out of solid blocks of aluminum, for custom applications, have a deal with AEM (Said they would match or beat anyone's price). Check them out @

http://www.turbochargers.com/

These guys are the sh!t.

SSSSSSSooooooooooooooooo, my kid decide to get a hold of my camera and the install pics are toast. I will take some after shots for posterity tomorrow. Luckily I uploaded the clocking pictures before I even started the install. So I will still be posting that how to on the clocking. Sorry about the photos guys.

On a much better note I have new news on my old CT 26. The shop in Texas that I sent it to Turbochargers.com, formerly Texas rebuild as you know informed me that my turbine wheels were shot so to speak, that was the kick off to this whole thing, right. Well after informing them that I was just going to buy another turbo, I told them to do the seal kit and put it back together. I figured that I could just list it for $100 or something as "needs turbine wheels" or something to try and recoup a very little dough. Well that was not the case, their resident turbo tech Mark was like "I can't let this thing leave here in that condition", took it upon himself to try to shape and balance the wheels to get them back to a reliably operable state. He somehow accomplished this magnificent feat, But as I was talking to Ralph (owner or partner I am guessing, by the way he represented himself), we got to talking about his twin turbo 2jz Lexus, which is running twin Big 16's. Well Mark then took it upon himself to cut my compressor housing and replace my turbine wheels with that of the Big 16 variety (45.5mm). As if that was not enough Mark then balanced the whole thing out again and refinished the housing completely. I got a message from Ralph that my UEGO and EGT were on their way as well as my turbo, that is when I was told all of the other work occured. To my complete astonishment and delight all that extra work cost me... c'mon guess, you'll never guess. $300...nay, $200...nay, $100...nay, $50...P'shaw...............$0, That's right true believers $0 MotherF$%^in dollars. These guys went above and beyond, to accommodate me while I figured out what I wanted to do with my old turbo and then completely rebuilt and upgraded it for FREE, minus the price of the seal kit that I asked them to do. I was referred to them by a friend of mine, who has an all-wheel 94 Eclipse. He also does not have a bad thing in the world to say about these guys, The do all the machining in house, They even cut Some of their own turbine wheels out of solid blocks of aluminum, for custom applications, have a deal with AEM (Said they would match or beat anyone's price). Check them out @

http://www.turbochargers.com/

These guys are the sh!t.

If your down pipe is anything like mine, you have an O2 sensor on the top of the pipe:

you don't have to remove the pipe, you can remove the O2 sensor and look into the hole with a flashlight to see if the gate is still open. Also you can just reach behind the flange and feel the waste gate arm, try to just tap or push it back toward the actuator if it pops shut then you definitely are having space/placement issues. If this is your problem recheck your actuator arm measurement against this:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40547&st=0

From there if your measurement is correct, make a new plate if the old is flimsy. If the measurement is off re-bend. If the measurement is not off, then you will either have to find a way to move the bracket that your actuator is mounted to. Or bend that bracket in such a way that you do not alter the travel of the actuator rod too drastically. Hope this has been helpful, I just happened to luck upon this right after I was having a similar issue.

I just swapped my CT 26 for a CT 20B, after the install was said and done I got in ready to boost my @$$ of and was only getting like 5 psi. I went on to check everything over and had a couple of loose intake hose clamps but that was all. So I hooked my actuator up to my airbrush compressor and activated it, when I released the load and looked through my O2 bung I noticed that the gate itself was not returning fully but the actuator rod was. Thusly too little distance from the actuator to the gate arm. Long story short I re-bent the bracket a little took her for a run @ 50% on the boost controller and viola 10-11 psi.

I am no expert, and you may have other issues, I am just offering insight based on a recent experience so please make sure to check all other connections as well, and check everything that I have described to have come to my diagnosis. I hope this is your only issue and that the information helped, I have received much help and support on these forums since I got my SWAPPED Celica. I hope to return the favor at least as many times as it has been afforded to me.

It sounds like both of your problems have to do with your waste gate actuators. I just had a similar problem if you have the resources remove the lower line on the actuator, remove your heat shield, apply air to the vacuum line that you just removed watch the area where your waste gate actuator connects to the turbo housing. Check to see if the arm returns on it's own, touch it if you can to see if it has returned to the fully closed position. If when you touch it it springs back home then it is not closing and your bracket is either out of place or bent or your actuator rod got bent during removal or installation. Or you just didn't end up in the same exact place.

Low boost = stuck open
High boost = stuck shut

Also check for waste gate clearance on you down pipe if you have swapped turbos, not all waste gates are the same size.

With that actuator rod yeah no heat shield. As much as I really do enjoy the tech talk, I actually should go to sleep. It may be 6:00 pm over there, but it's 2:00 here. So again Thanks to all and have a good evening.

Yes, same principle different theory.

will do, have some pics but for superstitious reasons I am not posting them until any and all Gremlins are gone.

Correct Delusionz< if I didn't "clock" it the fitment would be fine, and that would be one hell of an actuator rod. I believe there would still be issues with the push/pull electric fans though.(Not entirely sure about the fan thing though)

From the look of your profile pick Delusionz you have the GT-4 setup, I don't I have a FMIC instead of the top mount that you have, so I have to "clock" or rotate my compressor housing. When you do that you have to remove the waste gate actuator from the housing because it can either no longer operate at that angle or because of clearance issues with the hood and or coolant lines I believe. When you do this you have to make a bracket plate that is connected to the trans bolts, the spacing compared to that of the original mount point on the housing is shorter in distance than the original placement. Thusly you have to bend the actuator rod to a shorter overall length. That length being 7 + 3/4". Either my actuator rod is too long or the plate isn't rigid enough to withstand the movement. ( Again as before no sarcasm or condescension, IF you already knew this I was just trying to give an in depth explanation)

Brenton1919: I have checked the down pipe and measured the tolerances as well as removed my O2 sensor and visually inspected the movement of my waste gate. I peened the inside of the down pipe to insure that I had an extra 1/8" of room. 1" in from the edge of the flange is where the waste gate sits and it rises about 1 + 1/8" above the flange edge, so I have made extra sure that there are no clearance issue, thank you for the reminder though.(Same as above, no sarcasm, just information)

On a side note, I need to start using other forms of letting people know that I am just explaining, these side notes make me sound all sheepish. So raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwrrr, piss off and stuff!

Have to measure it, but either from not being bent exactly right or simply the spacing on the relocation plate.

LONG story short it is in but the waste gate is not returning to the full closed position. The actuator rod is to long, the steel of the plate to move the position of the actuator is too thin and keeps flexing. So while I had it in I bent the bracket that the actuator sits on (or so I thought), during that time I got incredible boost (compared to the 26) at about 50% of the Turbos max output according to my boost gauge. That output @ 50% was about 10-11 psi. Spool up was very smooth and quick, torque steer is off the map though (need an LSD, Be calling you soon Culp). Since then though the steel of the bracket and or it's holding plate has had a chance to relax again, sooooooooooooo... ...Tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I will be either re-bending the rod to the specifications in how to, altering the bracket to allow for the rod length, or cutting and welding the rod to the proper length of I believe it is 7 3/8.

I have pictures and such but I refuse to post them until I am finished (it's bad luck IMO). I should be completely finished with the gremlins tomorrow.

Aftermarket EGT, I have a bung in my down pipe for the UEGO. LONG story short it is in but the waste gate is not returning to the full closed position. The actuator rod is to long, the steel of the plate to move the position of the actuator is too thin and keeps flexing. So while I had it in I bent the bracket that the actuator sits on (or so I thought), during that time I got incredible boost (compared to the 26) at about 50% of the Turbos max output according to my boost controller. That output @ 50% was about 10-11 psi. Spool up was very smooth and quick, torque steer is off the map though (need an LSD, Be calling you soon Culp). Since then though the steel of the bracket and or it's holding plate has had a chance to relax again, sooooooooooooo... ...Tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I will be either re-bending the rod to the specifications in how to, altering the bracket to allow for the rod length, or cutting and welding the rod to the proper length of I believe it is 7 3/8.

I have pictures and such but I refuse to post them until I am finished (it's bad luck IMO). I should be completely finished with the gremlins tomorrow.

ridiculous day, it's in. too tired though, only getting about 8-10 lbs boost pressure. haven't reset ECU though. going to bed hit you guys up tomorrow. oh and I will be posting a compressor housing "clocking" how to as well. I saw the one for the actuator retro fit but not one for actually spinning the housing.
Good night all.

I read the primer awhile back, thanks for the reminder Lagos. I was planning on waiting for the tune or ecu uprgrade to install the injectors. I think I saw a rom tuned ecu on ebay actually. I'll have to check on that and other options in the next couple of days. Tomorrow I have alot to do to begin with I have a Uego and an Egt on order and they should be here at some point between Monday and Wednesday.

Any idea abou installing the Egt sensor, I was going to tap the exhaust manifold right before the turbo, but if anyone has a better idea let me know. Reason for this is that I know your supposed to install it around 8" away from an exhaust valve. To my understanding the stock runners on the manifold are somewhat of an issue, because of the length 2 of the runners. From what I have read they are prone to being much hotter than the others because they are shorter.



Whaddaya think?

Apparently I am late as well tonight.

Delusionz, the existing downpipe is an XS power 3". Tomorrow is the day Boys and Girls. Can't wait, wanna go outside now and do it.

Thanks Manny, just got a 20B shipped over from PR. I also got some 540's coming.

I opened another thread in the mean time is there a way to migrate it.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=79257

So info as of now, use existing FPR, waste gate actuator difference (old)7 lb. min., (new) 10 lb. min., check on AFR tune for 540's.

I do have a Blitz Dual SBC, so I will make sure to keep the pressure out of the LEAN. I will also post plenty of pics, can't wait to feel the difference. I didn't think there was much lag at all to the 26, but I am told that the response is even better with the 20B, sooooooooooooooooooooooo... ...we'll see.

So I bid you all goodnight , will update tomorrow... ...crap tomorrow is mother's day, rats foiled again. Until Monday then, when I will hopefully be to the majesty of the 20B by days end.

Thanks again for the info and support guys & gal, Same Bat time Same Bat channel.