6G Celicas Forums

Are you all talking about OD or ID diameter because GT's are 1.75 ID.

I have a fidanza flywheel on mine and it didn't affect it at all. Besides, if the idle is slightly higher than 800 it isn't going to hurt anything really

Royal Purple 20w50 synthetic would probably be fine, but 3s motors don't run any better with a thicker oil. It moreless comes down to preference. Any other motor oil brand is moreless as good as the next as long as you change oil regularly.

That is not the banjo bolt that goes on top of the fuel filter. 5sfe's use M12 - 1.25 thread pitch and the hole that goes through the banjo bolt looks way to small compared to the stock one. Just look at the filter to see if the banjo bolt is there or not.

If your flywheel is not out of round or has any grooves, you could resurface it yourself. Just make sure you inspect it for cracks, heat checking, score marks, or any other damage before you decide what you want to do.

Thanks a lot for the info.

So from what the chart shows, the E153 tranny is useless to me because I cannot tach 7000rpm in a 5sfe which will not give me any more top speed except for about 10 mph in 5th gear. Right? Oh well, I was just trying to get that extra edge!

The main reason I would like to do this is because the synchros are much stronger and durable, and the gear ratios are taller. BTW, what are the gear ratios and final drive ratio on the alltrac transmission? And what is the top speed on it as well?

What are the same things that need to be done to make it work as if it was the 3s swap?

I have heard that 5sfe (C-52) trannies can be used for 3sgte motors, so could you use a 3sgte transmission for our motors. If so, what would have to be modified? I was wondering about this because those 5s trannies really suck and they can't hold up to any kind of abuse on the track. Any help would be appreciated

It could be a spark issue. Is your timing advanced, because mine done the same thing when I advanced mine to 20+ BTDC. Ran fine, just missed like crazy while idling.

US models 700 to 750rpm
Canadian models 750 to 800rpm

No, It won't hurt the locking ring. Just make sure you are hitting square on the axle, and you are going to have to hit it firmly in order to compress the ring so it can slide out.

What I meant you could do is after you have removed the passenger side axle, stick a screwdriver through the transmission and use a hammer to beat on the axle. Make sure the screwdriver is skinny enough to clear the shaft that goes between the axles. While someone does that, have someone jerk on the axle, just make sure not to pull on the CV joint.

The right side has a locking ring on it, and it can be a pain to remove. If you can get something to jerk on it suddenly, it will eventually come out.

The weight between the 1uzfe and 1gzfe is not that much different, especially when the v12 motor could have unlimited potential.

Nope, I do mean the 280hp v12 monster that is in the Toyota Century!

Would you be willing to do a 1gz-fe swap! If so, how much?

I checked on the PCV valve last night and it is still working just fine. I am positive the seal is installed correctly and the crank had no wear on it either and the main seal housing was also good. The leaking was never coming from the seal during the rebuild of course I never revved it past 4000rpm. After the motor was broke in, I started revving close to 6000rpm. That is when it began to leak pretty bad. Unless the oil pressure spikes at that high of a rpm and it ended up blowing out the seal, I don't know why it would be leaking then. What do you all think?

About the PCV valve, could I put a breather on it to allow more air to escape from the crankcase? Or would it not be of much help?

I rebuilt the engine myself not too long ago, and when I installed the main seal, the matting surfaces had no flaws in them. About 2 months ago, I took the motor back out to fix a few problems that appeared after the rebuild, and I checked the seal to see if it was leaking and I found no oil coming out from it. When I put the motor back in, the seal just started to leak some, then it just got worse recently. I know oil pressure is within specs, but could 65psi at 3000rpm be slightly high for a range of 36-70psi? Don't you think that is on the borderline range just a little bit?

The thermostat could be sticking. That would cause a sudden increase in temperature. I would test to see if it is opening or not. I would let the car sit and idle until it warms up, and see if it begins to overheat. That way you may be able to pinpoint where the problem is at.

Is there a way to tap into the sending unit to install an electonic oil pressure gauge?

I'm pretty sure of the readings, but the oil pressure gauge is about 25-30 years old. It reads up to 80psi but it might be worn out or just too old. Would the spring on the pump give more pressure at idle or at 3000rpm? Oh yeah, where would the check valve be located on the pump?

I finally got an oil pressure gauge and readings were:

Idle (cold): 60psi
Idle (warm): 38 psi
1500rpm: 62psi
2000rpm: 63psi
3000rpm: 65psi

It seems that oil pressure is within the normal range at 3000rpm, but at idle it is way too high. The main difference between Toga's oil pump compared to a stock pump is the size of the rotor. That is what determines the amount of oil the pump can move at a given rpm. Unless that is what's causing the high pressure at idle, I don't know what is going on. This is a guess, but could the spring in the pump be causing the high pressure?

Say if it was that the rings were bad, your looking at about $500-$700 depending on the mechanic you go to. However, you may be able to save some money if you get the parts yourself.

The reason a 2nd gen celica can beat an srt-4 is because of their all wheel drive. Don't get me wrong, Neons are quick, but their fwd just doesn't cut it on takeoff.

It is possible. However, did you check to see if the o-ring could be leaking also?