6G Celicas Forums

there isn't a lot of companies that make them for retail sale. they are usually custom. if you need one made, we can definatly make one for you later on.

otherwise, if you want to use a regular intercooler, you would just extend on end of the piping to reach the other side of the intercooler.

those dyno numbers are definatly crap. the dyno is dirty.

they don't call me angry mike for nothing.

i'm trying to keep a customer happy, so i'm obviously going to defend my work.

it made decent numbers even with the maf on its side. what do you know, it worked.

vw 1.8ts don't make good power numbers without a bunch of help. not a good example for this senario.

does your research include real world experience? i've been in a number of cars with 1.8L~2.0L engines that die on top with super 60's. most people that buy super 60's change them out 6 months later for a t3/t4 or larger.

if you want full boost by 3000 rpm, you have never driven anything with over 200whp to the front wheels. my old daily driver didn't reach full boost until 5k. it was great, i was able to keep traction and actually race from off the line. i was making 340whp on a 1.9L with a t3/t67.

your are right about a smaller t3/t4 working better, however the 60 trim will work fine as well. it is not too large. at the 6500 rpm a 1.8L will be in the highest efficency range, which is why it feels good up top.

you don't typically want to size a turbo that at the end of the run you are in the 60% efficency range, which is where you would be with a super 60.

t3/t4 flow numbers:

50 trim = 48 lbs/min
57 trim = 50 lbs/min
60 trim = 52 lbs/min

the difference in spool between a 50 trim and 60 trim is about 500 rpm. its has a worse compressor map then a 50 trim which makes it perform a little worse at lower rpms.

not trying to be a dick. i delt with the "super 60 problem" for about 4 years now with all the saturn guys. people that usually buy them are very disipointed when they push more then 10psi.

super 60 will puke on the top end if your running anything above 10psi.

good spool, so its fun to drive.

its spring loaded. if the spring is worn out i could see that, but its not.

it will be fine.

i guess its good when the little stuff is being nitpicked.

compression and leak down test will tell you if you should or not.

any local shop should be able to preform at least the compression test.

thats about right. that turbo will support 450whp. there is going to be a little lag.

that shouldn't be too big for your engine.

this was all tweaks mad science. i did a little aluminum welding and thats it.

the car turned out pretty sweet.

as far as hydrolocking goes, you would have to fill all of the intercooler pipes, turbo, intercooler, supercharger and intake manifold before there would be a problem.

i seriously hope somone would shut the car down if they were in water that deep.

i hydrolocked my first car when i was 16. only flash flood in madison wisconsin for 20 years at least. figures.

i can't wait to see the numbers myself. should be pretty fun.

heres some pics. engine bay, custom battery holder and custom cruise control bracket.

if you design it properly, the most you would need usually is 5~6 couplers. on some setups, you might nee more, however the lest amount of couplers the better.

extra couplers and maintnence shouldn't be in the same senetence. nothing like dicking around with some extra couplers. extra time, more money and more things that need to be replaced in the future.

most people try to eliminate extra stuff under the hood.

thats like saying, you want a bunch of flanged points on your exhaust for maintnence. you need some break points to take things out (usually two).

anyone ever heard "keep it simple stupid"

the more couplers, the more prone to having issues with pipes blowing off. not to mention spending an arm and a leg for the couplers and clamps.

couplers work, however welding is a lot better.

stainless is stainless. you pay more for the better bender. as long as you get your stuff from a reputable source, your getting the same thing that everyone else is getting.

companies don't have to charge fair market price. in fact, the best bends that i've ever gotten are from the cheapest place that i've found.

aluminum is the best option due to the heat dispating properties. you want somthing that will heat soak fast and disipate fast.

while your sitting at a light your pipes will heat soak. so as you take off the pipes will start to cool. you want your piping to cool instantly so you get the benifits from that awsome fmic you have. stainless or aluminized steel retain a ton of heat. soon as you heat them after that first pass, they usually stay hot.

aluminum is lighter too. when your engine is moving around and you have big heavy piping, chances of a coupler blowing off or pipes hitting things increases.

its usually more expensive, however the benfits usually outwiegh the cost. you can usually get aluminum for the same price as stainless. problem is finding somone to weld it.

the other thing that most people don't think about is what if you using stainless intercooler pipes and your welder doesn't backpurge, your going to get some sugaring in the piping.

this is bad for two reasons:

1. you might end up sucking slag into the engine
2. there is a rough serface at each weld causing turbulence.

a good welder can not back purge and get minimal sugaring, however most welders doing automotive stuff arn't good welders.

mmm...... the manifold isn't finished and if your refering to the turbine housing, there isn't.

the turbine housing has 3 full passes on it with nickle rod. the imperfections in the casting bring all sorts of crap out in the weld making it look like it has pits or holes.

i assure you, its about as solid as it gets.

that would be pretty fun but......

one pound of titanium tig welding rod is $100 with a miumum order of 5 pounds usually.

to put that i perspective:

1 lb mild steel - $1
1 lb 4043 aluminum = $7
1 lb .030 304L stainless = $15

the piping would probably cost $1500 to do a cat back. not to mention, the welding process is way harder.

i would love to try, but i can't say i wouldn't be a little nervous.

it was pretty quick to me. tweak will have to be the judge. hes driven a few more of these then i have.

no offense taken here.

i thought it was a little wierd when i first heard of it too.

aluminum exhaust has been out for quite a while. first one i saw was on an early 90's covette. it had tunable mufflers and a full cast aluminum exhaust. it was pretty crazy.

i soon after started seeing super crazy cars running them.

i have a buddy that has made a couple. hes not a very good aluminum welder, so they kinda looked like crap.

aluminum is my favorite thing to weld, so i would prefer to make exhaust out of it.

turbo is a t3/t4 50 trim, stage 3 turbine .63a/r. its good for about 450whp. you would probably see full boost on a 3s by 3500 rpm or a little later on 20psi.

thats the smallest turbo that i sell with my kits. that particular turbo is my favorite. good for low and high boost on pump gas for your average driver.

the manifold pictured at the top is for a saturn. i flew that out to my friends shop in LA last week to fit it up, weld in a wastegate and build a down pipe. that particular manifold is for a gt28rs turbo with a t3 turbine housing. it will be a couple weeks before i get any feed back, but i'm sure it will make good power.

most of my manifolds make pretty good numbers. i havn't had any full-on race cars use them, however i've had a handful of individuals in the high 300whp to low 400whp on pump gas in hondas and saturns.

i built a kit for a 02 automatic celica gt about a year ago that made 280whp on 8psi. t3/t4 50 trim and emanage.

heres another project i'm trying to finish tomarrow

glad you like all the work.

test drove it this morning. drove like a stock car.

well, people probably thought that the wheel was stupid at first too.

there are tons of people already doing it. the only catch is that you can't really run near the engine. the higher exhaust temps near a turbo or the engine will kill the aluminum pretty fast.

its not going to be as strong as a stainless counterpart, but it will be strong enough.

the exhaust should have more of a howl to it, but its not going to be any louder they a stainless ehxuast. if you using the same muffler and pipe routing, there shouldn't be an effect on noise. just the tone.

i would think you could probably shave off 20~30 lbs on a full system. thats some serious weight.

i would do the first one for around $650. that would include pipe, muffler and 3 v-band clamp sets. so not only will it be light, it will be quick disconnect as well.

this is one time thing though as far as the price goes.,

if anyone is thinking about doing this from out of town, it should only take one day to build (10-6) as long as everything is ordered ahead of time.

its nice this time of year in georgia

i want to build one. if anyone is interested in getting one done and is anywhere near savannah, ga, hit me with a pm.

bingo!

everything is built for it. all hes got to do at this point is finish up the little things, get a tune and push the gas pedal.

hes running gas this year and supposedly alcohol next year. not sure yet.

all i know is i can't wait to get a ride in it.

its a gt42r

this is his new setup. he was running a blowzilla (t4/gt40) before. his timing belt slipped and he bent a valve, which ultimatly opended pandoras box.

hes shooting for 1000whp. he should get it pretty easy.

one of my best friends has a mr2. hes done a couple things too it.

you could always do somthing like he did




the air to water setup i built for him a couple years ago.