6G Celicas Forums

My celica is dead and has been dead for some years now I still have her in hope to bring her back to life...to bring her back shes in need of a new motor...or a complete rebuilt kit of the 5sfe mainly a new crank...and just about all sensers on that motor..block head and cylinders are all that seem to be ok and useable still....she needs new carpet new wheels new seats...new moonroof glass....she basicly need any spare part avalable...any help would be so much appreciated by me and the car...everyday I see her I can hear her crying to be back on the road...

agree with wheel berings......they may be bad

found this....kinda off topic but it helped me learn what the numbers mean........
http://www.americanracingwheelsinfo.com/wheel_offset.htm

in pa?....wow i would love to but thats a little far from me....dnt junk it itll just become scrap metal....i wish i new a way to get it

so how much does a coupe go for if it more then a gt-4....i payed 6k for mine

here were i live i see alot of coupes tho not as much as hatches i think a hatch would benifit me more.....i do love the coupe and your rite fix it up rite the coupe can look real nice....take coomers yellow coupe for example

ok i wont give up yet

no give or takers?...well it was worth a try

i understand the whole meaning of flush and what spacers r but now i woundering if someone could expain all the numbers and how they all work together such as offset and spacer thickness and how to caculate what offset to go with... and spacers.......i saw the chart mentioned earlyer but to me the offset numbers just look like number and i dnt know the meaning

hey ppl this may sound a little crazy but i thought i mite as well give it a shot.....i was woundering if any of you is willing to trade their hatch gt for my coupe gt what ever parts u dont wanna trade we can just strip it of those....must be running (if not runnin we can just swap motors or if not major i could work something out ....unless wanna do a shell trade only........or even trade for a convertible......or if any of you have a shell of hatch for $500.......any questions just ask me......mine does run no rust (at least none that i have found) has a oil leak on cam seal that im replacing now 201k miles still runs strong no carpet dents on driver side bk fender that im workin on and dents on frnt psgr fender pwr window and lks all work moon roof every thing on the car works

reason why im doing this is cuz i just wanna have a hatch r a vert

thats crazy i didnt know it would cost so much.....

whats makes the coupe lighter...........i do like the coupe since it seems to be more of a car look....but i think i would prefer the coupe being a convertible....plus the hatch seems to have some aftermarket tail lights as the coupe does not

this is for the ones that have owned both hatch and coupe.........what did u like better the coupe or the hatch what is better to have coupe or hatch....whats more fun to drive coupe or hatch

its there for fire safety......it could help i guess to protect paint from heat damage but it mainly there to sufficate a fire incase u get an engin fire....the plastic clips that hold it to hood will melt when a fire starts and the fiberglass or whatever its made of falls on engin sufficating fire..........at least thats whats its supost to do..........i dont have one on mine either.....

dont some jeep looking things i dont know what there called but have a locking system on the frnt wheels and once u lock em its awd and when unlocked i guess shaft spins while the wheels spin freely making it rwd....is there not any thing like that for gt4s. . . .that way when u wanna drift you can and when you wanna race in snow you can do that too basicly like a when active system but leaving it rwd when non active. . . . . maybe im off subject i didnt read everyone posts

ok 17x8 45 +5 offset=hellaflush.....so +5 for frnt and back?........i want a nice clean hellaflush look on the back....even if it it means diff rim size then front.........however unless it will look good i dont want it to be that noticable.......not sure if 18s in back and 17 in frnt would look good......or 17 in back 16 in front......or just straight 16s all over......or just straight 17s all over.....of course with the right offsets....dont get me wrong cuz i also want the front to be flushed as well....and keep in mind i wana keep what little power my car has not make it any slower....this stuff is tuff cuz i dont wanna make a choice and then regret wastin my money on it

wow almost forgot i had this post on here.........just learned somewhat bout offset and spacers on another post......so what im really looking for is good show as well as performance......plans: flushed and have performance on street, and at the drags....would like to take it to x races some day....drift is out of questoin since its frnt wheel drive.....drag however i think itll all have to do away with street rims and tires, slicks in frnt small what nots in back

adapters?....explain.....i was thinking 4 lug cuz where im at it seems that 4 lug rims r more cheaper and avalable too many civic supliers

sry yes the 50/45 is series...not offset..........................ok so 16x7 45 with 5+ offset would be better performance wise then 17x8 45 and ? offset.........also how flush would the 5+ offset make it?.........

is ther a conversion or a way to saftly convert our 5lug hub to 4lug 100mm......what would it take to do it?

my thoughts are to try and do this without useing spacers.........possible with 16x7 50 or 45.........or 17x8 45...........what would be better performance wise.......or is what im askin basicly tring to start fire with water.....they dont mix

by job i think i got it...lol......anyway......how do i measure from what to what with what to know what size offset i want

i looked at ur guide and it looks that the back is gonna be a diff offset then front.........so that means rotating tires would look funny

ok im gettin the idea.....how does the suspention work with all this? must be real stiff? ......so spacers r for the ones who wanna keep their current rims and flush them?.......

thats what happend to mine is it got brittle and the platic just crumbled............yes 50$ for both i will do

if the the pwr stering valve is not nessisary then ill pass on that unless i can get it from you for a low price.........the knock sensor i dont know how much they run so i dont know what to base it off of......my hopes were to get these parts under 50$....or all three for 50$....but let me know whut you can do...your knock sensor is it original? chiped? cracked? brittle?