6G Celicas Forums

I remove and reflash some of the board components.

It has a better mid-range on the stock ECU. Beyond that, it's cheaper than a gen4 and usually cleaner. They stopped making these in 2007.

Just thought I'd mention I have my gen5 3sgte running on the stock ECU. I have the immobilizer issue fixed. I've wired a further 11 mr2s for people along with one st165.

So, in other words, the gen5 3sgte is now an option.

In all honesty the best swap is the 1nzfxe. A blistering 110hp, and you can pick the motor up and place it in the car by hand. No need to mess with those pesky engine hoists.




It's also the only motor I've had where I can take it out without also removing the transmission.

I pulled off the 2grfe swap I did for my brother fairly cheap. If you can do your own fabrication, this helps a lot with v6 swaps. If I didn't come up with my own headers and mount, I would have spent $1700 on that swap kit for the 2gr.

I'm not a fan of gen3 lag. Definitely a reason some might not want that motor.

and consider a gen4 while you're at it.

This tends to happen to mr2 swappers as well.

Just my opinion based on the inside info I have on how people's swaps actually go and what people think of the final product.

Beams tends to underwhelm (though I liked mine and my 64 year old dad thinks his is really fast). The last one I did only took a weekend. The beams is also a good fit for mk1 mr2's and corollas.

1mz is a whole lot of work. Definitely not a weekend swap. Guys get the motors cheap, and then get nickel and dimed to death on the accessories. People like the end result better though. You can also resell a well swapped v6 car for more it seems like.

Which is better, beams or 1mz? Neither. Get a gen4. The reason you go NA is because you hate lag. A gen4 does a lot to minimize that. The gen4 gets results comparable to a 2gr, and is a pretty easy swap. The cost is fairly low too. They are actually a bit cheaper than the beams.

Smaay's 3mz seems to be doing well on 1mz nonvvti electronics. You could probably go the same route and avoid the massive 2gr celica project.

Trunk mount that turbo right?

sc'ing your 1mz puts you in the 2gr ballpark.

Smaay couldn't do a 2gr. No way to get around AT codes with the 2gr. He's in California, so it wouldn't get past inspection with codes.

When I did my brother's, I didn't feel like it was necessary to get an entire 2gr parts car, or even a motor set. He bought a longblock, and then bought everything else separately. There are a lot of items that you wouldn't use out of a motor set. Catalytic converters/manifolds, power steering, and the automatic transmission. Also, you have to find the very specific nonimmobilized rav4 2grfe ecu. So since you're stuck piecing it all together anyway, may as well save the money and not pay up for a motor set.

Again, for a Celica, the big thing to look at going in is the hood clearance.

I've done a bunch of 2gr wiring for the sw20. I swapped a 2gr into my brother's mr2, and then 15-20 harnesses for people. On those, I make a separate 10ft harness for the pedal. 6 wires all to the ecu. With the Celica, you could just run the wire straight from the ecu. 5ft would be more than enough.

Fits great in mk2 mr2's. The ultimate v6 swap for an mr2. You'd want to check fitment head/hood clearance for a celica. But otherwise, totally doable.

The gen4 3sgte is easy and can be done in a few weekends.

I vote for a 2grfe or a gen4 3sgte.

Because while you can beat the solenoid codes with resistors, you will still be stuck with a code for the transmission speed sensor. With 97+ ecu's, you just ground the adj pin instead.

For a California car, you will want to run a 1997 1mzfe....at least if you plan on taking it to the ref. You have to stick with years that had a manual transmission as an option. 1997 had the manual transmission, and has the advantage of being preimmobilizer.

I guess this means it's running right.

The automatic tranny codes kill the rav4 ecu for California. That and the stock 2gr exhaust manifold interferes with the clutch slave cylinder, so you're stuck with headers, another problem for CA.

You could potentially use evora exhaust parts and the evora ecu, only problem is that those ecu's are all immobilized.

This is definitely an area where toyota is inferior. I've done a number of swaps with Chevys. The ecu's are open, so all I have to do is plug my laptop with tuning software into the obd2 ports, access the ecu, and uncheck the box for security (and rear o2's and evap and automatic). With Toyota, you would think you were trying to access some military secret. The dealer can't even disable security.

I have wired for about a dozen of these in mr2's. All of my harnesses have been based off of the 2plug harnesses for use with the nonimmobilized rav4 ecu. The 2plug camry engine harnesses are ok to use with the rav4 ecu. For the basic motor, you can use just about any 2gr you can get your hands on.

I'm doing a 2gr swap right now in my brother's 93 mr2.

We're looking at a total budget on the swap of around $3000. I'm modifying a set of honda v6 headers. They seem to be about 80% correct for use with the 2gr. I'm doing the wiring, the exhaust, and the motor mount, he's doing the installation (the grunt work). My brother plans to daily drive this car. There really is no reason not to.

There should be no reason why this can't be done in the Celica. You could probably even use your existing s53, or whatever S transmission you happen to have.....though S transmissions are marginal for use with the 2gr. There might be some clearance issues to contend with. Somebody would have to install one to figure that out.

Here are most of the 20v's (and many other toyota's) nonoem part numbers. There are 3 main manufacturers involved:

Yazaki:

Igniter 7283-1056-30
knock 7283-1015-10
coil 7283-8226-30
airtemp 7283-1224-10
vvt 7283-7526-40

receptical tab/terminal 7116-4025
seal 7157-3646

Sumitomo:

evap 6189-0249
injector 6189-0573
map 6189-6912
camposition (will update)
O2 (will update)

Tyco:

12pin ecu plug 917978-1
16pin ecu plug 917981-1
22pin ecu plug 917989-1
26pin ecu plug 917992-1
tps plug 178399-2
watertemp 178392-6


receptical tab/terminal small 175265-1
receptical tab/terminal large 175269-1

So there's 90% of the connectors and parts in a 20v harness. Other toyota harnesses have a lot of this stuff in common.

Most of these can be had from various suppliers around the internet. I'm working with a supplier who will provide them all at once to simplify things. I really don't want to be in the electrical supply business. Basically it will allow a "new" option with my harnesses. Of course, with this info, even a Diy'er will have "new" capabilities.

Some of these connectors are readily available in the junkyard. For example, the map and iat plugs can be found on nearly any toyota that used a map sensor.

It still takes a fair bit of skill to make a harness, but I'm sure to some of you, this info will be extremely helpful.

Ok, since I own both motors, I have to say the beams 3sge will kick the crap out of a blacktop 4age. For that matter a 2nd or 3rd gen 3sge will be the faster motor.

I have a beams 3sge in a mk2 mr2, and a blacktop 20v in my mk1 mr2. My beams mk2 is faster than my 20v mk1 despite being heavier.